davebugs

Mine was 82.00 for Platinum renewal. With the 100 mile towing. I've already used one tow getting a car with a broken timing belt that I bought towed. It was in a difficult place to load onto my tow dolly or trailer with the winch. I've had it for years - maybe that's why it's cheaper, or due to the part of the country?

I have had the premium for as long as it's been nice. Thay are also great at title work. I have a ocllection of antiques and the 100 mile towing has come in handy several times for my "modern " vehjicles. It's less than 100.00. Bw aware they are stingy and want to send a tow truck and not a flatbed. So you gotta tell them 2 flat tires no matter what is wrong. I'd like to think they might realize a SUbaru is AWD but they aren't always the smartest bunch. I'm parting a VW diesel now the towing folks broke the pan on - a very common issue on MKIV VW's. They have other services, lockout, jump, etc. But one tow and it's paid for itself. If you don't ge the premium the tow is like 5 miles then they start charging mileage. They even have like membership discounts at places. A little newspaper they send with hteir trips, etc. But 100 mile free tow adn title work done right at reduced rates are worth the membership IMO.

Gary, If need be I can likely pull a pump and send you the bolts late tomorrow. I'm sure I have some removed but no idea of where.

Common problem usually caused by last timing belt job being doen by someone who doesn't realize how tight the crank bolt needs to be. I sued to have a couple of pice here in my photo album. I used to pull the engine, weld the crank end, dremel it out/clean it up for the key, and reassemble with a new pulley and sometimes oil pump depending on damage. Some folks choose easier methods. But I'd sell these cars and didnt' want them failing.

That's what I'm talking about! Smythe Perofrmance. The excuse last year was a wedding. Of course they wanted me to go to MA to see the car. They can be hard to get ahold of. They are on Facebook and I'm not, and don't plan to be. I asked in their thread on tdiclub a week or so ago and haven't heard yet. Last year I ended up finding some email addresses and they finally answered like 2 days before. Carlisle I can day trip. I'm just finishing parting a 99 Beetle TDI ALH/ 5 speed to get 5 speed swap parts. My first real project since the accident 2 years ago. I've got a lot of unfinished projects but would love to do that kit car. FYI gassers will work too.

IMO it's usually better to fix what you have. Head Gaskets aren't a bad job. Yank the engine and reseal it including the baffle plate in the back, new crank and cam seals. I leave the rear main seal alone. Usually it's NOT what is leaking in the rear and replacement usually leaks. Better left untouched IMO.

I received the usual Carlysle Producctions card in the mail. But I haven't been associated with a club at Caqrlisle for a long time. Haven't been ther ein over 10 years, but thinking of going this year especially if there is a certain kit car company from MA gonna be there. Though I'm not nearly as active here as I used to be if I do go I'll look to see if the USMB has a spot and drop in. I've got piles of parts but not able to take stuff there to sale.

http://www.post-gazette.com/stories/local/neighborhoods-city/man-with-penchant-for-stealing-subarus-charged-678151/ Was gonna put in OT but by the time it was cleared the article may be taken down. This fella is in the city.

Alternator is forst guess. Have it tested on or off the car.

Often if it's not the cap or a dry rotten hjose it's the fuel filler tube.

See where it's leaking. Often under the reservoir on the PS pump - look at engine underneath it. I've had excellent luch with Lucas Power Steering goo for most of your problems except stopping the leaking Oring under the reservoir.

ZIt's non interference so you're good. That said there is a notch that sticks up on the back of the cogged piulley on crankshaft behind harmonic balancer. Luuk for a noth to align it to under the crank sensor. When possibly that's what you want to do. All 4 pistons will be half way out. Them the cam sprockets don't matter on this engine.

Posted on another site yeaterday. One of the folks linked to this: http://slickdeals.net/ Look under yesterday's deals. 27.99>22.99 (which is what WM is around here), promo code DOW9 for 30% off, then 5.00 rebate each gallon - limit 2. Looks like need to order online then pickup in store. Personally I HATE that - I'm a cash kinda guy. I run this in a lot of vehicles (mostly VW's with turbo's - diesel and gas) and sometimes it's discussed here so I thought I'd share. 22.99 - 30% minus 5 bucks isn't bad.

On a '95 2.2 you're good - NON interference. Dots and dashes (hash marks NOT arrows). Just confirming what others have posted. I do complete timing component kit and seals, WP, all belts, etc while I"m at it personally. Most of us get the kits on the internet. I use theimportexperts and others use someone else from the left coast. WAY more reasonable that the local parts place or dealer normally,

I believe they went bankrupt a while ago. Never were a name brand like Reese or Valley. I think mostly places like Whitney, Northern Tool, etc sold their stuff. Can't imagine it screwing up a bike rack. In a former life for many years I installed and wired a lot of hitches (late 70's) back when cars had frames and metal bumpers. But I have no experience with the Putnam's.

I've had tremendous luck for several thousand miles using Seafoam thru a vacuum line. But she SMOKES a LOT!! Serious white smoke while doing this!

I run Lucas and soemtimes Seafoam through every gas vehicel I have or take care of atleast every oil change. I buy Lucas by the gallon and refill those little bottles. Figuring it's easier to keep them clean while they have flow than to wait until they are restricted and hope the cleaner can get in there AND remove whatever the problem is.

Compression and especially leakdown should tell a lot. I put off pulling an engine apart because when I do - I do everything but crack the case and do it all right. Often it's easier and cheaper to just find another 2.2. That 99 is a little werid - but may be able to be overcome. I have one here and it's the only engine I have not marked with it's problem or miles.

Welcome to the USMB. A missfire on one cylinder is almost always mechanical (NOT a sensor, wire, plug, or anything easy). Compression check? Often times folks break a timing belt, hang a new belt and drive or sell the car and if they were lucky enough not to bent the valves bad to begin with they don't do well for long. I assume this is a 2.2 being an Impreza Sport.

Most cars if a CEL in on cruise won't work. Is it on? Is it working? Just guessing.

ANd it's hard to spot from the top unless you're really looking for it. It's the only stiff hose lets say 1" round. Literally follow it with your hands to both ends.

Simply answer to a common problem. Pull engine or trans and reseal and/or replace oil seperator or called baffle placed. Only takes some ultra- grey and a lot of labor.

Welcome to USMB, remember the site will be down tomorrow! Head gaskets - take for atleast 45 minute drive, rod knock(after it's warmed up), torque bind when turning sharp. Them's the big/first 3 for me.

Dang, I could use this today and the latest link no longer works.

I find they are excellent preventative maintenance. And don't seem to clog the radiator, heater core, etc like the miracle cures at the parts store. I know this from the cars I buy. If I fix a 2.5 on the way to drop the heads off I take the rad to be flushed and checked. Normally I am concerned about "stop leak" but this seems to help without much harm in a Subaru. It's the only solution I'd try in a Subaru actually.