davebugs

If you're gonna have a Subaru HG issue this is the one to have!! You can nurse it forever if you keep topping it off and wait until it there are other reasons to pull the engine.

I got the IR reader and some of my rechargables are now charging because I think it said they were low. LED screen worked but no laser dot or readings. On this toyota the cat is on the front of the engine jsut after exhaust manifild and between engine and rad assy. Seafoam didn't work. I was gonna pull the second O2 sensor on whichever bank and add a non-fouler. Car has 138k rust belt miles on it. Have to think what heat shield fsteners I'm gonna break and what shape O2 sensors may be in as far as removel. I replacement Walker is like 600 bucks and replacements never seem to last. I may ignore the car until tomorrow. I had assumed cats were under the car. This thing is stupid layout. Throttle body is half way down engine between engine and firewall facing upwards. I try to stick to VW's and Subaru's even for friends and family. But sometimes I get other vehicles that folks ask for help with.

Correction. I've never seen a Subaru engine (2.2 or 2.5) mix oil and water. I have some trouble typing and getting words out of order after my accident. So I try and proof read real well but was in a hurry this morning. Time is moving quickly and coming up on 2 years and I seem to not be getting any better anymore. Same as the physical issues. The 2000 and up 2.5's you seem to be able to basically add a little coolant indefinately. And usually the car will leave coolant marks where you park it, not much but if you look for it some. But they don't overheat due to air pockets in cooling system like the 2.5 DOHC's. I keep a few bottles of the "conditioner" here.

Someone didn't button it up properly last time. Depends on how bad keyway is how screwed you may be.

If you look where you part you should see the coolant. All HG failures in 2.5's seem to now mix coolant with oil. The rare 2.2 HG failure usually blows white smoke but the coolant still doesn't usually mix with the oil.

Thanks. I ran out of patience to stop there this evening after hitting 2 lowes to find the tool set on sale to be able to see the contents since they aren't listed on the website.

Actually I do have 2 turbo diesels but no need to check either of them. If I suspect a cat problem on either of them that's easily solved. I thought cat's themselves run way hot - like 1,000-1,200 degrees. But I just wan tto check the pipe before and after. HF has a cheapie that I didn't think would read high enough. Reads to 968F onsale for 19.83. So you fella's think that'll do for this Toyota and most gassers?

HG's, torque bind mostly. If different sized tires - that isn't good at all for the AWD. Same brand/model/size and hopefully close in wear. Easy to test and often ATF light flashes at startup.

yea - but what temp gun do I need? Don't know how high of temp reader I need.

Glad to see one thread. How about a USEFUL location associated with your ID. Some of us may be able to help you out. For instance I have a trans in a 97 Outback parts car. Your current location is rather useless - wouldn't you say?

I'm working on a Toyota RAV4 of my aunt's. Had a miss fire (one coil pack and 4 plugs - old ones actually looked o.k.) and it was fixed for a week. Catalyst below effeciency. Seafoam works for a few days. About to try non-fouler but vehicle isn't here so unsur e if there is room. My real question is how high of degrees F do I need to ba able to read before and after cat to see if cat is actually clogged a bit?

Please keep to one thread!! Please go into one and declare it INACTIVE and link to the active one!

The final drive and rearend must match ratio wise. But that won't help your wireing problem.

Yep, IIR I think the 99 has 2 sensors and 98 only has one. What made you think this would work? Because I don't think it'll plug in. It may bolt up (well atleast 4 of the bolts will) but it won't plug in.

I've gone through a few. My latest is a Kobalt it's black, seperate motor and compressor. 110v. Overall it works well, now close to 400 I believe. On wheels. I've had it I'd guess 4-5 years. Stay away from oilless that cmbine motor and compressor unless you enjoy lots of noise and short life. Short life if running something like an air drill, grinder, sander, etc.

Actually VW/Audi coolant is different, and doesn't play well with others. And it's supposed to be "lifetime" just like their ATF. I don't believe in any fluid being "lifetime". I replace coolant with G12, or now super duper G12 every timing belt at 100k on my TDI's. The VW's I happen to have (early 2000's) are known for wimpy automatic transmissions. Both on the ATF side and the diff side so I do both of those fluids every 40-50k.

year/engine/miles/intent? I'd likely say bearings and rings.

Ultra Grey is all that I use on Subaru's. Easy to find, priced reasonable, seems to set up harder than a lot of sealants. I never found a reason to look for anything more exotic.

They differ by the EVAP hoses at the top. IIR they changed around 98 when the charcoal canister got moved to the back - I never tried but you can probably replumb if you get the wrong one. IIR over 100 at dealer, someone lists redone ones with warranty on Ebay for about the same price. DON'T install plastic protector on replacement.

Looks like a fun little car. Too bad it's not still in PA like that old inspection sticker. I'd definately check it out.

I used a round prybar from a cheap set that was tapered at the end. But I also took a chunk out of most of the pistons on that blind side. I was scrapping the engines anyways. But it wasn't the best method. Perhaps the flat end makes a significant difference.

The 2.2, it's Ypipe and I take the flywheel off the 2.5 and put it onto the 2.2. Seal the baffle plate while you have access, leave rear main seal alone. That 2.2 very likely has the EGR - I think 95 was the only iffy year.

The 2.2's I've seen with HG issues had traditional failures after overheating. Traditional being blowing white smoke. Not the classic 2.5 failure symptoms you're reporting of bubbles and cooling system issues.

Lesson learned I guess. Now you have an idea of which shop you can trust and one that you can't. I still think someone broke the injectors, they don't physically break by themselves.

I have a few of these "kits" PM me if interested. I prefer the old style more reliable tensioner myself.