subsince77

I looked under the hood this morning, and I can't see anything resembling a filter there. I can see the lines running from the tranny all the way to the radiator. but no filter. What am I missing? Would I have to remove the battery to see it?

So is the consensus that a drain and fill with filter change every 30,000 is enough? Or, does it need to be drain and fill X 3 every time? I generally run my cars well past 200k so longevity matters to me. I am just at 18k now, so I could easily start a transmission regiment at 25k or something if that is better. That fluid is $10/ qt. So a drain and fill X 3 with filter is going to cost close to $200 if I am understanding it right. And when you do a drain and fill X 3, do you put the new filter on at the first drain or the last?

This is great. Since this is my first auto, I have a lot to learn. One more thing, since I can't find a manual for this car yet, does it have a transmission filter, I mean a screw on filter, that I change when doing a drain and fill? I have been told it doesn't and that it doesn't.

Yeah, I was pretty excited to find out that it came with a synthetic fluid. I am just going to stick with the Subaru stuff. The only downside for me is the distance to the nearest dealer, but I don't have to think about it for at least a year. Am I correct in thinking that it should be ok to go with Valvoline 75/90 synthetic in the differentials?

The owners manual says to use Subaru ATF, no surprise there. I do drive in the mountains continually, and sometimes pull a very light trailer - just a few bikes, or two sea kayaks. In my MT cars I have always run synthetic, and I thought it would be a good idea in an AT too. I just don't know what kind of synthetic would be good. If the Subaru stuff realy is the best thing for the tranny, I'll run it happily. I was just surprised to hear that it IS synthetic.

I was at a Subaru dealer this afternoon buying some oil filters for our new 09 Outback. We were talking about the automatic transmission and the type of fluid that is in it. The parts manager, and a Subaru mechanic that was standing there, both said that the 09 would have come with synthetic transmission fluid. I had wanted to change it over to synthetic, and was going to ask all of you what kind you would recommend for that car. Can an 09 would have come with synthetic ATF?

Congratulations. I finally gave up on trying to fix my 3/4 misfire after years of replacing every sensor, wire, switch, even the ECU, that could be suggested. My check engine light is basically always on, but never in the 240,000 mile life of the car have I ever felt any hesitation, missing, anything. It has always seemed to run perfectly. We don't have any emissions checks here so it doesn't matter. I am about to get the car ready to sell. I think someone can get several more years of good service out of it.

I'm in the always just hand tightened and never had a leak camp. Part of the problem too is how difficult it is to get pliers on it, and the cap type wrench I have doesn't grip very tight. I was able to grab it with a piece of rubber, to give my hand better grip, and get it just a little tighter when the engine and exhaust was cool. I drove it about 15 miles, and checked when I got home. It seemed to be completely dry, although there was still a small amount of oil burning off the exhaust from earlier. I think I got it. Next time I change the oil, I will take more time to clean up the engine surface. I just didn't expect a problem.

One other thing. I did use a filter pliers on the Subaru filter to remove it. I tore a hole in it instantly - pretty thin material. It is quite interesting trying to get that pliers in from the side, above the exhaust, and put any pressure on it without ripping the wire off the 02 sensor. I need to figure out how to remove the plastic shield on the right front corner under the car without breaking the little pins that hold it in. It would have been easier, but it was snowing hard and I cleverly positioned the car where it, now devoid of oil, was right under the water running off my roof. It was a memorable first oil change with the new car. That is one scary small little filter. I thought the one for the 97 was too small!

I checked the old filter, the O-ring is on it - thank goodness. I did manage to tighten the new filter a little more, still by hand, just now, so I will see if it stops, otherwise I'll pull it off and check the surface more carefully. I love the way they wrapped the hot muffler right around the filter on these. Makes changing the oil with a warm engine more exciting.

I changed the oil this morning on the 09 Outback. The subaru filter that was put on by Subaru, was so tight it was almost impossible to get off. I use either Napa or carquest filters - both made by Wix. I put the napa filter on in the normal fashion, a little oil on the gasket, tighten by hand. I could smell oil burning as I drove around today and assumed it was just what was spilled during the change. Bt when I got home, I stuck me head under there, and the filter is clearly leaking. I reached in with a gloved hand and tried to tighten it more, but I can't get it any tighter without using a tool. What do you think, bad filter? Anyone having trouble seating the filters on the newer cars? Never ran into this before.

Thanks, that all helps. I have never liked autos, but had read so many good things about these on this site and another, that I thought I would give it a shot. One thing that seemed to be repeated often is that the Subaru transmissions are good, but be sure to maintain them. Having not done that before, I wanted to be sure I didn't get behind. So far I have only driven it a couple hundred miles, but that was back over the passes from Denver to where we live in Western Colorado in mixed conditions from dry pavement to snow and ice. I was impressed with the sportshift. It works beautifully going both up and down. It shifts very smoothly and predictably. So far so good. We usually run our vehicles well up past 200K, so I want to keep it in good shape. Sounds like I can wait a year or more to change the fluid so that's fine. I may just go ahead and get the synthetic in the engine and gear boxes. Thanks

I did some reading here, but didn't find what I was looking for. This is my first AT so bear with me. This car is an 09 Outback and only has 18,000 miles on it, but it is my habit to change all the fluids when I get a new to me car. This week I am going to change the oil and start it on Synthetic. Would it be silly to drain and fill the tranny at this point too? It is currently smooth as silk, and I'd like to keep it that way. Do you guys use Subaru fluid or aftermarket? Which aftermarket? Again, the nearest dealer for me is 70 miles one way. Is there a synthetic tranny fluid that I can/should use? It gets very cold here in the winter (-35) but not hot in the summer. We do run up and down mountains all the time though. I have read many of you say that when you do a drain and fill on the AT, you do it three times. Would that apply to this car at this point in its life? Do you change the filter each of those three times or just drain and fill fluid? Finally, I have always used Valvoline 75/90 synthetic in the rear diff. Is that a good choice for front and rear dif on this car? Thanks

Thanks all. I guess I will plan a trip west this week. The cost of shipping makes ordering the stuff silly. So, any reason not to put an aftermarket radiator cap on it? I've always just gotten them at NAPA. The car is still on warranty until November, I'm just not used to thinking about going to a dealer for a radiator cap and 2 cups of antifreeze. New car ownership is a new concept. From reading, it sounds like they did finally eliminate the external HG problem, correct? I can't tell if there is still a need for a conditioner or not. Anyone know?

Well we did it. We bought an 09 to replace our 97 240k Outback wagon. I just drove it home from Denver over the mountains. Pretty amazing car. I even broke about 40 years of tradition and went with an AT too. Anyway, I noticed that the coolant, the new blue stuff, is just below the low mark on the tank. I checked and rechecked everywhere, and I don't think there is a leak, but time will tell. My question is can I add some kind of regular coolant to the blue? Is there anything that is compatible? Otherwise it is another 140 mile round trip to the nearest Subbie dealer for a jug of overpriced coolant. While on this subject, how soon, or often do you add the conditioner? The car only has 18K on it, and has been serviced a dealerships, but I don't know what they did. I will search on that last question and see if I can find the answer. I could not find an answer to the first one. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. We are looking all over, but have always wanted to go to the PNW anyway. Would be a nice trip if the price was very right.

Looking around the country for a newer Outback. Seem to be some fairly good deals in the Portland area. Is Oregon a salt/rust problem state?

Thanks, yeah I'm aware of the 3.0 and the XT. Don't want either. I am really curious about the Hydraulic valves. They were great in the older Subarus, required no maintenance. I am currently looking at a 2008. It looks great but it is an AT. I have ALWAYS been a manual tranny guy, but man are they hard to find these days. The whole "sport shift" thing sounds silly. You can always shift any auto tranny on hills and in snow. I don't see the need. I have always preferred the better milage and longevity of manuals, but I might bite the bullet this time. We do drive in the mountains all the time here so... Thanks again.

Again, I am researching a newer Outback to replace my aging 97. I have a couple of questions. As I look at prices and milage on used cars, I am trying to figure out how soon I will need to have some basic work done. As far as I know the 05 to 08's are all SOHC engines, correct? Did they go back to hydraulic valves on those? If not, am I still looking at having the valves adjusted at 100,000 or so like on my 97? That pretty much required the engine being pulled and cost a bit. Is the timing belt still done at 105k like my 97? And finally, is it any easier to change the plugs on the newer cars? I am most likely going to get an 07, or an 08. Thanks

Yes. I have dedicated wheels with snow tires. Of course, I think all the newer cars have 16 " wheels don't they? I would have to replace all of that. I have been working through the thread. Not reading everything. 137 pages!!! I haven't come to a place that give any definitive solution yet.

It's just amazing to me to read about such a problem in a Subaru. One of the things I like most about our sub, and the others we have had, is the solid stability on snow. We have snow packed, or icy roads for at least 3 months solid every year, and potential for it for 7 or 8 months of the year. I have seen no decline in Subaru ownership around here. It seems like about every third vehicle. I am going to ask a few locals about their experiences too.

So, I will keep reading through those threads tomorrow, but on the ghost walk thing, is that limited to the autos, or is it a problem on a manual tranny too? Since, at least on the older models, you don't get the side to side power transfer on a manual transmission, it would just be one more reason that I would stick with a 5 SPd.

We get lots of snow here in the central mountains of Colorado. I'll look into that. Thanks.

Hi All, I am finally starting to think about replacing my 97 Outback 5 spd.. Other than going through the dreaded head gasket problem, it has been an exceptional car. It just turned over 240,000, and I figure it is time to start looking. I'm in no hurry. I like the body style of the 05 to 08 outbacks the best. I will be looking for another 5 spd. Any issues that make one of those years preferable, or non-preferable? Thanks

Last winter the cable housing came out of the cable housing stop on the back of my control unit (in dash) in my 97 OBW. When I would move the lever to heat, the cable housing was not held in place, so it would just flex and not move the actual lever on the heater core. It was way too cold to fix it, I was afraid I would break some plastic parts removing the control unit in below zero weather. So, for the winter I just pushed the lever by hand and blocked it in place with something. I had loads of heat. Then in the summer, I took it apart and glued the cable housing back into the cable housing stop. That's my story. Maybe it will help.