The Dude Abides

Glad you got this worked out. Now you can say to your friends whose laughing now. I had something like that happen to an old bronco i had. I went to work and my brother and his friends decided to steal it and go joyrideing. Well they didnt get a block away before it quit running. We towed it back to my place and i tore apart the ignition, gave it a tuneup, checked everything and it still wouldnt start just turn over. Well the hillbilly who had it before me changed it to an electric fuel pump and had the wire just sticking into the fuse box. It came loose, fuel pump quit working end of story. I hooked up herd the pump pumping and she fired right up. Kinda funny how things like that work out.

what ive found that after a car sits for a bit, make sure that battery is good and charged up full. If its sitting at an angle and doesnt have alot of gas in it you might need to put a couple gallons in. I turn the key into the on position then off then on then off. Get that system nice and primed up with gas. If it still fails to start after that, then you check your fuel, and spark. See if you can get it to start with starting fluid.

I had an intake gasket on my chevy leak once but you could see it spewing onto the ground.

The loyale i just gave away had that feature as well.

you replaceing the bent fenders and doors, what do u mean new metal.

Yea its fuel injected. It might be a pcv problem it hasnt been changed in a while. Doesnt seem to doit from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th. Just kinda strange. 200k so it probally needs new cap and rotor as well as a pcv. Ill change them out.

So i guess i dont know if thats the right wording but shifting from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd i have this point in the beginning where it will do nothing. It still drives but i can mash the gas and it just kinda bucks a bit and gurgles then takes off. This spot usually only lasts a few seconds but i was curious if this is what is called a dead spot and what i could do. Has new NGK plugs and wires. Cleaned MAF and is not throwing any codes. 1988 Subaru DL

You can get a 5 speed and a dual range as well. the 4 speeds manuels were ea81 series, you have ea82 There are a few kinds. In the 80s you could get a DL wish a push button 4wd single range, or a GL with a Dual Range 4wd. Latter on in the 90s they just changed the name to loyale and had only push button 4wd single range. If you see a stickshift with a dual range its a 5 speed, unless it is in a car older then 85. Right. Also more then likely the rear end will match up. Most of them are 3.9, but some came with a 3.9 or a 3.7 LSD but most of them are 3.9 regular rear ends. You can tell buy the tab on the rearend of your car. It will say lsd in it if it is a limited slip. Oh and buy the way if you get a limited slip you are doin awsome because its a good thing to have.

jesus man thats awsome.

I dont think you should get your money back but a what the hell phone call is in order. 750 bucks is not chump change. Motors should be looked over buy them before sold.

LOL, brent i refuse.

I have 3 as well. Various conditions

You would think that at one point it had to be assembled so disassembly is possible.

No that wasnt addressed to you one-eye just frustrated.

Yea chux i know what your talking about. I just cant wrap my mind around the offset. Mick had a sex of 15x8 chevy wheels we tried on my car and they stuck out about an inch. The wheels im looking at are the 6lug aluminum wheels from a stock tahoe 7 inches wide. 6 on 5 1/2. The offset on the factory wheels just seems different then aftermarket wheels. I honestly wont know until i get 1 dam wheel knock out 2 lugs on my car and line her up. Tires i can always get smaller but this wheel is where im trying to go.

ill sell you one 15 bucks shipped.

I could stand it being raised an inch if the tire and wheel combo im thinking about fills the fender gap. Hey mick, if i used the factory aluminum wheels like on your tahoe, do you think i would need longer lug bolts to get to the edge of the wheel.

Free tires to me. 225-60-16. will they fit stock heigh subaru.

The green one is headed to a fate not yet determined so its not getting painted. Just a parts vehicle. The handle is also messed up on the green one.

Since rust has gone rampant on my car i thought about swaping the green hood and hatch in favor of the white one on the car. The hatch is fine on the green or blue one:grin: but the hood has rust on the front. But my white hood is all dented. What would you do. I think the only real pain in the butt thing would be to change out the locks but i dont know how easy that is to do either.

Did they change the format of the ac alternator locations from the factory ac to the aftermarket ac. OR did they just change it around in latter years. 1st pic is of my white 88 wagon 2nd pic is of my green 93 wagon.

Any Iowa guys want some pieces off this wagon. Prices are rock bottom as long as you take nothing to prevent the front wheel driveability of this vehicle.

i know i need to look up ej swap but real quick, can i retain the same axels and the 4 lug setup.

Heres how it started my thinking. Ive been thinking EJ swap alot lately because the money its going to take to get my ea82 sealed and good parts on it is silly on a 200k motor. So i was thinking if i do this i might as well swap the tranny to the legacy tranny as well. And thats where the whole which is the better one to have thing came into play. I have the push button single range in my car and if i went legacy i would get an awd tranny. Sooo hence my delema.