StructEngineer

Replacing one side does NOT increase the pressure on the other. The rationale is that new PADS may grab significantly differently than old worn ones. Hence it may make make the car try to spin more than usual under a heavy brake. Just replacing one caliper shouldn't be an issue.

This summer I got a set of Yokohama Avid Envigors (v rated version) for the forester. I like them better than the BF Goodrich Traction T/A's I had on before. If you want specifics just let me know, everyone has different expectations.

There is a high probability that you have to go through several sets of autozones axles until you finally land a set that lasts more than 6 months. If dont want to rebuild your OEM axles with the kit (which is messy and time consuming) the next best thing is http://www.raxles.com. I never got why people so willingly gave up their expensive OEM axles as a core charge for cheapos. Of course unless you've driven them for 5000 miles with torn boots making a rebuild a bad idea...

Yea, I actually bought and installed my new tires at the tirerack warehouse in South Bend, so I'm familiar with their questionable "reviews" and feedback. Didn't go with the continentals because, yes, they are too soft. The tire I went with has been an excellent choice thus far over my old BF Goodrich Traction T/A's.

Does anyone here have them and what are your opinions of this tire? They sound like they have good grip but I'm on the fence about their handling. I hate vague steering.

I think you got a good deal in Santa Fe then. Still, original guys aren't out of line if they quoted rotors.

I dont get it. $340 at the dealer sounds about right if you include new rotors and properly refresh the caliper slide pins....and maybe new fluid. I just did all 4 for $150 in parts alone, so I think you're missing something. For $179 you probably just got a pad slap. Don't claim victory just yet.

Funny you ask, I just changed all 4 on mine. They had 60,000 mi. Fronts had 10% until hitting squealer. Rears had 30%. (My forester has disks all around)

On my honda, a spring is used to tension the belt during installation, but then you tighten the tensioner pulley bolt which locks the pulley in place. Is this different from what you describe? I would be surprised if they relied on this spring to continuously tension the belt.....

You got ripped off big time if they didn't do anything else than read the code and replace the knock sensor.

yea, i'm not so sure I'd be that worried about blowby if its not already a problem. Would think there are other possible bottom end issues at high mileage. Either way, since the OP works in a shop and may be able to do it cheaper than buying a separate engine, I would just do the full rebuild. Or just roll the dice and do HG's only. Depends on what sort of bulletproofness is desired. The more I think of it, if i had a lift, and wasn't driving the car cross country, maybe I wouldn't mind tearing it apart twice...

Just in my opinion, at that mileage you should only be considering two options. 1. Full Rebuild with the correct parts. 2. Buy a rebuilt or low mileage engine (that has been rebuilt with the correct parts) 235k is pretty high mileage just to be replacing heads. Aren't you concerned about the bottom end?... I would.

I only put seafoam in the gastank to clean injectors, and through the intake to clean valves. If you want to clean the top end, crankcase, and/or free oil control rings from their lands via piston soaking use Marvel mystery oil. If you put them side by side, seafoam looks and smells like kerosene and marvel mystery oil looks more like oil (smells like cough syrup) Case in point, I wouldn't put seafoam in the crankcase unless you have a really good reason..

I just replaced mine this morning in a parking lot. $70 OEM part online. 10 minutes. It's just one bolt. The code turned itself off... I dont think it needs to be cleared.

My 2002 developed this oil seepage around 60,000. At first the Holts worked, but eventually it did nothing even with multiple doses. Once coolant started pissing out I had the HG's replaced at 98,000.

To the OP, what was the physical condition of the aftermarket cats after they went bad? Did they look coated? How do your spark plugs look? You gotta give us some more clues. When did you start having this issue in relation to the headgasket change? I dont understand why people are getting offended and making cutting remarks that this guy doesn't want to use anti foulers. I can understand how the forced opinion of 2 people on this site can be annoying.

The limit is 8yr/80,000 mi. I highly suggest replacing gaskets and o2 sensors before replacing the very expensive cat. If the cat is bad, then you should also be looking into why it went bad....there's usually something wrong that causes it. They dont just go bad.

No kidding, I had to basically beg my dealer to replace the pulleys.

Have you checked for exhaust leaks upstream from the cats? You'd be surprised how many people get 4020 issues only to due to leaking exhaust joints. This keeps the cat from operating at the correct temperature.

I use NTK and never had problems.

As mentioned before just use one of the vacuum hoses on the intake. I would suggest adding it to the hose with a small funnel instead of sticking the hose in the bottle. You dont want to add too much at once so you dont hydrolock. I wouldn't add it to the crankcase. Just run it through the intake. $8 and 5 min isn't a waste.

to those who are recommending an entirely new engine for a burnt valve, are you recommending this because putting on a fresh head may end up blowing out the tired bottom end?

Dont feel stupid. It's SOA engineering at its best.....Hide the often used engine oil plug and make the transmission and diff plugs easily accessible. It's a nightmare for quick lube places.

What are the readings on the rest of the cylinders and did he confirm rings by testing compression wet? Would also try a leakdown test before considering the engine junk. I wouldn't assume bad compression rings unless others are also showing signs of wear and until he first checks out the valves. Might want to run some seafoam through the intake...maybe you just have a really gunked up valve..

I think you'll get a better feel for reliability by scrolling through thread subjects on message boards of various makes. I frequent another message board and its a completely different atmosphere and types of problems....gives a better feel than a few individual opinions. There people mainly ask about how to make more power..... here I feel a lot of posts stem from poor quality in the last decade.