markjw

Wait! That hole in the side of the forward bearing, in pic number 1, is suppose to find a pin in the bearing shell. You probably know that.

Thanks, Noah....Maybe he'l chime in. I'm gonna hopefully have everything swapped over by the end of this coming weekend. Everything except the EJ. I'll evaluate the suspension with the EA motor in and tackle the EJ swap in a month or so. One thing that really sucks is, even with the low power ea82, it squats in the rear when you hammer the gas. I picked up a set of front, 4runner struts today. I'm gonna try Jeszeks write up on putting them in the back, stiffen it up a bit.

I found the same thing in one cyl of a FORD FE motor I rebuilt. I could feel the groove, but barely. I talked to a pro engine builder and his advice was to use emery cloth on it. Not to sand it smooth, but sand it down enough so nothing protruded above the surrounding cyl wall. The groove, apparently, would only cause the engine to possibly burn a little oil. I took his advice and the engine never did burn any oil or smoke. It always bothered me, but I don't think it's a deal killer in engine building to have a groove in a cyl wall. EA82 short blocks are plentiful, maybe it'd be best to replace it. But, I'd go with it if I couldn't find a replacement really easily.

1991 Loyale 5 speed Push Button 4WD Wagon SJR 4" Lift Wal Terrain 225/70r14, 26.4" per Miata Everything else, bone stock The wagon is my wifes ride. It will probably never see anything more than logging roads with an occasional mud hole. Probably spend most of it's time on pavement. But, the finely tuned SPFI ea82 I have in there now is a complete dog. She hates it. It will soon have a EJ22 motor swapped in. I intend to install into this Loyale the complete drive train from a D/R 5 speed RX. Minus the engine. The diff and matching 5 speed are 3.7 ratio. I'm installing the complete suspension system, too. Along with the 25 spline hubs, both front and rear. My questions are: Will the 3.7 final drive kill the low end torque that the EJ motor is suppose to provide? Considering the tires are 26.4" tall, Am I better off staying at 3.9 or maybe even 4.11? Or, is this even an issue for a driveway queen. Any thoughts on that? Also, do you guys see anything else in my plan that might be screwy or senseless? Hurdles that I don't know about? Thanks for any help.

It's your first line of defense. Always start there. Search the procedure and learn to use the CEL system.

"What is a CEL?" Man, are you serious? CEL = Check Engine Light Leave the covers on. It's not like the ea82's. Once set up correctly, the EJ belt hardly needs any attention for miles and miles. Besides, the EJ looks odd without the covers.

I don't think anyone is ignoring your post, it's just that it's really hard to diagnose. I know you should be able to run thru the gears by hand without the advantage of the shift lever. I've done that plenty of times. Personally, I'd have someone spin the input shaft while I tried to shift the thing. If that didn't work, I'd body slam it a couple times. And then try it. But that's just me. Good luck.

I like the board and all-thread idea. Seems like the hanging exhaust system is always in the way of positioning the floor jack under the diff.

I saw that one. I didn't think it was the right one. Not much info on the auction ad, but they're website defines it much better. Thanks man.

Looking to buy a new, larger style clutch disk for a ea82. 8-7/8ths...I have looked and looked online and made a few calls, too. I can't find just the disk. Anybody got a lead?

They have always been that way about that particular service. The old man himself considered not even offering that service for awhile. But, decided in the end to just charge alot for it. Something about mounting up competitors tires really irked him. I read all that in a Oregonian interview years ago. Still, they're powder coat service might be worth looking at.

I know a few people who are happy with Les Schwab's Powder coating service. Seems the price is right, too. $25-30 a wheel. That's for the media blast and powder coat. The place I have taken my wheels in the past (independent shop) charges $20 a wheel, just to blast. Another $30 for the plastic. The only draw back to Schawb's service that I know, is the turn around time. About a week. Apparently the wheels are sent out to Prineville.

You might want to pull the hub off and check out the inside splines. They may be too far gone.

Well, since you brought it up (this post is a year old), I sold this wagon only a few months after I got it. I ended up resealing the engine, new water pump and other stuff. It ran perfect. I guess I got bored with it. The thing that haunts me is, the head lights were made of Glass and they had levelers on them. It was my first Legacy and I didn't know at the time how rare that is. From what the buyer said to me, it was going to Ellensburg, Washington.

Yeah, I know. But, it not being plugged in made my car not start for some reason. I just make sure it's plugged in now.

I had a no start situation once and found that plug just hanging there. Plugged it in, and the car fired up. I really don't know, but I attributed it to causing week spark, and as a result, flooding the engine.

What about the "T" shaped, white plug that plugs into the back of the Alternator? Is that plugged in? I think it won't start without it.

Look at the cam carrier surface the mates to the top of the head. You'll see a dime sized recess, round of course, that the o-ring lays in. If you put the carrier on to the top of the head, it's obvious which oil passage the ring is supposed to seal.

Nope...But you have to take off the cam carriers. You need two of these.

This is Definitely your problem. Each head has a o-ring sandwiched between the cam carrier and the top of the head. They absolutely need to be in place and they need to be the OEM version.

No Way....Not unless some one figured out how to cut one out. But, I don't think that would work, either. It's really buried. I've replaced a couple Heater Core's in the Loyale's...It's not too bad. The one thing that really helps if you decide to pull the dash, take pic's of how the harness plugs come thru the dash openings Before you actually pull the main part of the dash off. I think I have a few pics of the process.

Now that's funny! I should go with plan A. But, this thing only has 160K on it and it's just a victim of neglect. The great thing about people who drive they're cars into the ground without maintaining them, is that people like me pick them up for a dime after they won't "Go" any more, and drive them for ten more yrs. That could easily be the case with this wagon. It's a perfect swap candidate, thou. And I may still go that route. I need something else to wrench on while I'm still building up the nerve to take on the EJ swap. Keep my mind off this wagon. I'm going to look at a '88 GL in the am. 4wd 5 speed to boot.

Well, I tried it again. Another drain flush refill. It's hopeless. The fluid level is perfect. It's pink, too. Still slipping. Anybody have a auto tranny for sale?

It wasn't a complete waste of time, because I know now, after being able to drive it around for a few hrs, that this is a Really nice wagon. BUT:grin:, the tranny is slipping again. And, all that fresh fluid I added last night, it's now "black as pitch"... I'm tied between going ahead with plan A and using this wagon as a EJ donor or, finding a replacement tranny. It doesn't seem like good working 4eat's are readily available. I like automatic early legacy's. But, the problem's associated with them, I can do without. I think they are good trannys, it's just that they all have 200k miles on them now. The 5 speeds are cheap to fix. The auto's are not. Anyways, thanks for all the help and advice.

Thanks for all the good advice, Rooster. I made most of those mistakes on my previous auto legacy. Here's where I'm at. I found a inline filter in the tranny fluid "out" line. Since I didn't have a new one, I by-passed it. I threw it in the garbage, actually. I don't think it has ever been changed. I drained all the fluid using the tranny pump by way of connecting a 3/8", clear hose to the radiator return nipple, and added fresh fluid along with a bottle of Trans-X as the old fluid was pumped out. I've done this before. I'm convinced it's the best way to change tranny fluid on a early legacy. I don't know if the Trans-X had any effect, but thanks Fairtax, for that tip, too. I went for a test drive, and the thing is shifting perfect. No more slipping and it shifts smooth. I'm almost freaked out by how nice this thing runs now. I'm gonna license it tomorrow and change the acc. belts, take it for a real test drive. I was deceived by the condition of the original fluid just by looking at the dip stick. In the bucket, it looks like mud water. Is it possible the old tranny filter was so plugged it wasn't letting the pump build enough line pressure? I really can't believe a simple fluid change could make this much difference.