markjw

I bought a inner and outer bearing plus both seals off ebay recently for about $20.Package deal. So,I wouldn't say it's too good to be true.

Search "Idle air control valve"...Look for the cleaning and lube proceedure. That may be your problem.

Man,change the Sparks Plugs First thing. They short out sometimes. The bad one May look brand new. Meanwhile,your spending money replacing everything else.

Yes..Snug is good. Maybe just a pinch more. Exposed threads is normal as it's a pipe thread affair. Don't overtighten. You could crack the manifold.

I make sure I have a place for everything. So,when clean up time comes,you can stay focused on clean up rather than walking around looking for places to stash stuff. Also,with having a specific place for every little thing,I can find exactly what I need really quick. Thats the best advice I can give for stay organized. On a job like a HG or something really involved,I'll stop and clean up/put everything away,then start fresh. I'll do that in the middle of the job,usually. That simple thing,I feel,helps me do quality work.

No. It was not mounted at all. Just sitting there.

That's not just a crank pulley. That's a harmonic balancer. I think a chain/strap wrench to hold the HB while trying to remove the crank bolt is a bad idea.Especially in your case where you have a balancer and not just a simple pulley. Also,once you turn the outside against the inside of the balancer,it's pretty much done. Everybody has a trick way of gettin the crank bolt free. All the one's I know have already been discussed in the forum,here.

Maybe you have already seen these. These are the CL ad photo's from that guy in Yakima. Summer of '07. I think. I'm surprised I still have them

Here's a link that discusses the wheels in detail. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35534&highlight=allied+wheels+manufacture

^^^^ Posting at the same time. I read that the whole mess will bolt together,and you think everything is Ok,but,because the TC isn't seated into the pump the correct way,you'll cook your tranny in short order.

I'm pretty sure your suppose to seat the TC into the trans and attach the engine w/flexplate only, to the TC After you mate the two. And,you have to make Really certain the TC seats into the trans pump before you install the engine and flexplate. You should search the proceedure or wait for someone who knows the process. Seems I read on here if it's not done just right,bad stuff will happen.

The wheels are Allied Armament. They are or were a weapons manufacture based in St. Helen's,Or. That car was called a "test mule" at one time by one of our board members. Test Mule meaning that when Allied got into building custom parts for the Subaru's,they used that very rig to do the Research & Design. There is somewhere on the interweb,video of that car being launched off jumps,in a manner that you'd think the guys were trying to Destroy the car. When I looked it over three yrs ago,the front lift blocks were half tore away from their mounting points,the steering column had about 6" of up and down travel to it,from all the hard landing's,and,when I drove it down the road,it was pointing toward the ditch,but traveling straight. The asking price was about $1200...I was gonna buy it. But,the sellers behaviour...anyways. It had a couple grand worth of parts on it when I looked at it. The wheels were brand new 27" Boggers and there were five of them.All mounted on New AA wheels. It had Really nice off-road bumpers on it front and back and the rear bumper had a swing style tire carrier on it. All very well made. To top it off,it came with a new yakima roof basket,towers and cross bars. Search Allied Armament on google. Maybe they still have a site up. You might poke around in Vendor For Sale forums on the board here. A guy who had a hand in building that wagon is named Albie. He's running a fab shop down around Longview somewhere. BTW...Them wheels are not hi-way legal.

Hey! I know that wagon...Definitely one of AA's wagons. I actually went to Yakima to buy that thing about 3 yrs ago.The timing belt broke on the test drive and the guy who owned it at the time started freaking out on me about it. So,I walked. It had a Ton of good parts on it at the time.Looks like most are still there.

If it's a SOHC,and you do it in the car,I'd advise having someone there to help you Install the heads. I recently installed the heads on my '91 Legacy Wagon,and the lower head bolts need to be in place,in the head,before you lower the head down in between the block and the frame rail. Otherwise,there is No room to inset the head bolts. So,when you do the install,the head bolts want to run forward preventing you from getting the head in place.The threaded end of the bolts end up in the cyl. and generally getting in the way risking the integrity of the job. You need someone there to manage them bolts while you do the grunt work. Trust me on this.

Yeah,and quit running around on dry pavement with the 4wd engaged...Bad stuff will happen.

Yeah,I thought you said something about needing turbo one's....Do you know slideshow86? He has the hookup on these empi axles,kinda like GD. He gets um cheap and local from some shop in Tacoma. If you don't know him,I can call him and get the name of the shop for you. But,whenever I need some,I go thru him.

I've bought a dozen ea axles and I can honestly say the EMPI's have so far been the best. For me,anyway. In fact,I actually have a brand new one in the box sitting on the shelf out here in Yelm...It's a non-turbo one. I don't currently have a ea82 car to put it into. Maybe I should sell it to a local board member.

That's a Great write up...Is that yours,Bob? I'm amazed at the different torque values I see for the ej22 crank bolt. Now I have seen everything from the 60's clear up to 150 ft. lbs.

Timing belt.....See if the rotor under the dizzy cap turns while you crank the engine. If it doesn't,then the drivers side belt let go.

I've fought with them for twenty minutes with no luck. Walked away,came back and they just fell into place. What ever you do,don't resort to the "draw them together" with the bolts method. Bad stuff can happen.

Hopefully you have it in place by now....The last ea82 engine I installed,the clutch inspection cover was bent in a manner that it was getting in the way of a proper engine/trans fit. It's thin metal and can bend easily.If one is on your new engine,take it off till you have the engine installed.

Personallty,I'd look around for a uber-cream puff '93 or '94 Legacy Wagon. 5mt of course. Maybe one with 60-70k miles,garage kept with all the maintainence records. A flawless one,for sure. I'd drive it for twenty years and see if I could get a half million miles out of it. Even if you had to have such a car shipped or went and picked it up yourself, you could still prolly put 3-4 grand in the bank.

If it's none of that,then look at the choke system. If it's a carb engine,of course.

If I was sending a car to scrap and wanted the engine and tranny out of it,the First thing I would do is remove the core support. Without even thinking about it.