markjw

Nothing odd about the way the crank bolt comes off.Counterclockwise will loosen it.

If your strut is not loose,then I'd suspect a ball joint first.Up and down clunks are usually ball joints where as clunks or popping noises while turning,are tie rods.

Sounds like the o2 sensor.Maybe.That's what I'd look at.

Yeah,that's my concern about this kit.Those really look like ea82 seals.

I'm thinking about ordering this kit for my 1990 leg wagon.They are calling this a Master Timing Belt kit. It comes with alot of gaskets and seals and stuff.But,I'm wondering about the Oil Pump Reseal part of this kit. The one in the pic looks like a ea82 oil pump reseal kit. My question is,do the ej22 oil pumps and ea82 oil pumps require the same/similar reseal kits? I've never resealed a ej oil pump. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-Master-Timing-Belt-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563d8a263dQQitemZ370399651389QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The system is really simple.There is no relay,just a Thermo Switch on the radiator.It's a two wire,screw in type switch that is in one of the bungs on the passenger side radiator tank. When the coolant reached a certain temp,the switch closes and the fan comes on. If your fan isn't working,aside from checking the wire condition and the grounds,take a look at that switch. There is a test proceedure for the switch,I don't know what it is.

I've only seen one on the road....It was Red.

The engine runs quiet. It has since the rebuild. Before the rebuild,It ran quiet,but it had bad head gaskets. The problem is fixed now. It has good power and runs smooth at crusing speed. It could have been back pressure in the exhaust,or it could have been the o2 sensor. I installed a different y-pipe with a new o2 sensor. Runs like a top. Thanks for the help..

1994 Loyale,5sp 4wd wagon.Bone Stock. 1-135 3-140 2-155 4-135 The car isn't running right. I completly resealed the motor and installed a new timing kit. I bought it condition unknown so,I don't know how it ran before I did all the work. I have gone over the timing several times.Both the belt timing and the dizzy timing. It's right.I know it is. I had the heads shaved and pressure tested,too.New valve stem seals. New plugs (NGK) Wires Cap & Rotor Air filter Fuel Filter Fuel Pump is good,at least it works fine on my other loyale. You get the idea. Pretty much everything that should be replaced,I replaced. It's gotta be a sensor.I checked the codes and the only thing going on with the green ones connected is the repeated 5 quick flashes over and over.I guess that means notheing is wrong. With the white ones connected,I get EGR solenoid. And that's it. It starts fine,idles nice and smooth.Seems to have good power on the 1-2 up shift,but starts to fall on it's face from the 2-3 and up. It feels like it's sputtering and missing at cruising speed.Not much,but a noticable amount.Lack of power,too It just doesn't run very well at cruising speed. Here's my questions... What do you think about the comp. numbers? Could that be a factor? Also,could the 02 senser be bad,or some other sensor,and not throw a code? Any ideas?

I think they call that a Touring Wagon...They'r kinda rare. That's all I know.

Hey man,I'm glad you caught that before bad things happend. In circumstances where I am between two castle nut notch's,I always go to the next tightest one..I guess what I'm saying is,for me,the torque value is secondary. I make sure that mofo is tight.

A loose castle nut can be the sourse of All the symptoms you described and a lot more. Tighten it to 150 ft. lbs. Install the cotter key and check the other side. That should be a permenent fix,unless you drove around that way for quite a while. Other than your wheel falling off,a loose castle nut will let the splines on the axle chew away the splines within the hub.

I think it's a Great looking wagon. And,as far as it being a turbo,so what.When they are this clean,none of that stuff matters anymore.

Get some new gaskets. The cork ones work well for me. I think some people coat the new gaskets with some kind of sealent.I never have.I put them on dry. There is no torque value for ea81 valve covers.Just tighten the bolts until they are tight.Don't over do it,of course.

There's a d/r 5 speed in a brown ea82 wagon at the Tacoma PAP.The car is pretty fresh.Hasn't been there long. Also,there is a 2wd hatch at the Tacoma yard..I can't say for sure about the bumpers.Maybe they will work for you.Maybe they are gone. Also,there's a 4wd hatch at the Tumwater PAP.It has a d/r 4 speed in it.

Unless I knew for certain the engine was Way overheated,and was kept that way for a lenght of time,I wouldn't do a thing to the block except to clean the head gasket sealing surface. It's not worth the trouble to split the block when good ones can be had for cheap or free. I spend all my time on the heads,resealing the oil pump,front and back main seal and timing components. I generally do take the heads to a machine shop to be shaved and washed. Mostly because they come back clean and pretty much ready to bolt on.

I can't stress enough how important it is for you Not to mess with that "idle adjust screw" with the white paint on it. It's not a idle adjust screw.

Yelm,Wa.

If the follower has a flat spot worn into it already,it may cause problems. If you can't detect any wear on the follower with your finger,you should be fine.

Don't even try the job without getting some of this stuff. Available at any parts store. Put a good amount on the ball pivot end of the HLV's and some on top of the valve stem. Hang all four rockers and be percise when you go to install the cam tower. Have a coupe of the tower bolts handy to get them started. Take your time.You don't want to do this part twice.

Same here. POR15 was the first stuff I used of it's kind and I was impressed with the results. I did a truck frame and it came out Nice. But,it was very expensive. I can't speak on the longevity of the product because I never seem to hang on to any vehicle for very long. But,I can say that it went on very nice and it hardend up the rusty areas. Because of cost,the next frame I did,I used Rust Bullet. It didn't have as nice of a finished look as the POR15,but it seemed to do the trick on the rust.And,it cost half the price of the POR. Now,I use a product called Zero Rust. It cost about $60 a gallon,and works as well as the Rust Bullet. If I only was going to buy a pint or a quart,I would probably go with the POR. It is a good product.

If you have money to spare or,your really anal about changing out parts,then replace everything on the front of the motor.Except the oil pump.You can just re seal that. About $20. If you leave the timing belt covers off,you can easily replace/maintain your motors front components when the time comes. The first thing I do to any ea82 engine I have is pull off the timing belt covers and leave them off. I go as far as pulling the cam pullys so I can get all the timing covers off.

Hey! This just happend to somebody else's daughter. Check the rotor hold down screw. You might find it laying in the dizzy somewhere. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110658&highlight=daughter

If nothing else works,replace this sensor.It's a Coolant Temp. Sensor. Located under the thermostat housing. A faulty one will cause bad idle and other problems. Get a few at the wrecking yard 'cause they are kinda spendy new.

Hi JesZek! Good to know your still breathin'...I think I read on here you had computer problems. Hopefully you can get another PC up and running soon. How's the "Warrior Wagon" doin?