markjw

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106308

I run 205/60/15's on Peugeot wheels. Bone stock,91' Loyale. Search the subject. A book of info is available about this very subject right here on the USMB.

No...I just went and looked. You can get to it from behind the alt. But,here's the thing. You have to either remove the Battery or Alt. to have enough room to pull the pipe.

Yeah,there is one 12mm bolt that holds the tube. Remove that and pull.

It's anybodys guess as to how long it will last. With the boot torn and the grease leaving the joint,it's certainly on it's way out. It could last another 3-4 thousand miles. It could let go the next time you drive your car. It will eventually seperate at the joint and it'l make a bit of a racket until you coast to a stop. But,your done driving until you remedy the situation. There is a recent thread about Duct Taping a boot to get a little more life out of the axle. At the very least,read the thread and follow some advice given there before you go out on a 600 mile drive. Here's the link. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106059

From what I have read on the board here,upgrading the coil is a complete waste of time and money. And, can actually lead to ignition trouble down the road. Best to stick with a stock one.

At the very least,along with all the plugs out,you need to have the throttle wide open. Otherwise,your engine can't suck air thru the intake which will give low readings. Ideally,you'll get the carb in the WOT position without letting fuel into the intake. When your cylinders are awash with fuel,you can get a false high reading.

There is a autobody supply store downtown Olympia. I think it's called Wesco. Anyway,they have some really good stuff down there. I believe its the 3M product. I used it for trim pieces on a boat years ago. It's still holding. The employee's are knowledgeable,too.

This proceedure worked great for me. Except,in the end,I timed my engine the way I always have. With #1 at TDC etc.etc. As for the timing belt cover backs,I removed mine because they seemed like they would just serve to catch and store debree. And,once the fronts are removed,they are not as rigid and I feared the belts might rub on them. The oil pump and water pump can be accesed with the backs on. As far as it being a 20 min. job with the covers removed,I'd be lucky to do it in that time with the engine on a stand in front of me. But,I can tell you this,if the covers are on,your more than likely going to be calling a tow truck.

GD's right...Legacys are getting cheaper and easier to find. I see good ones that need a little work,all the time now,for $300-$700. That does bring into question why someone would want to mess with a ea82 car. For me, I have faith in my ea82 motor. I followed all the guidance from the board here,re-sealed it with quality gaskets and didn't take any short cuts. Aside from the design flaw of the over stressed timing belts,I think the motor is pretty solid. To overcome the timing belt issue,I carry with me in the smugglers hatch,a timing belt kit,Chiltons manual and tools to do the job wherever I may be when they let go. And,of course,I deleted the timing belt covers.

I'd buy it. You may get lucky and be able to eliminate the ticking by adding something to your engine oil,Seafoam or ATF or whatever "snake oil" you prefer. Several board members have gotten lucky this way. It may take a re-sealing of the oil pump. The o-ring kit is cheap. About $20. I have read from the board here that the pumps don't really wear out,they just need to be re-sealed and that will sometimes clear up the tick. There is a small o-ring sandwitched between the cam tower case and the head. Sometimes that o-ring needs to be replaced. Apparently,it will wear out and cause a loss of oil flow to the lifters causing the TOD. Seems the aftermarket o-rings,in this case,are less than desireable. Here,you'll want OEM o-rings. One per side. About $3... And,of course,it could be that the hydraulic lifters (HLVA) themselvers are either wore out or just gummed up,causing the TOD. In this case,you would have to pull the cam tower case/cases to get to them. Rebuilt ones are available for about $10 apiece,or rebuild the ones you have. Some folks on here will tell you the engine in your car is Junk even when its running perfectly.And,isn't worth fixing no matter how simple the problem is. I really like the ea-82's. But,mine runs perfect. I have done all the stuff to mine that I mentioned above,plus replaced the headgaskets. I change the oil often and never go more than a few days without popping the hood and making sure everything is looking good. Whatever you do,when you tear into the front of your engine,get all the timing belt cover components off and leave them off. Run around with the timing belts exposed and you'll like the engine much more. Several board members do this,including me,without any problems. And,when you do have a timing belt break,or your oil or water pump needs attention,the job is Much easier.

Put um on Dry...

Some of my favorite cars of all times were considered "throw aways"...The Ford Pinto,Ford Maverick. Anything made by AMC. Mid '90's escorts, Chevy Luv, and many others. Considered "Junk" by the masses. Cast away at the first sign of mechanical trouble. But,I still see these cars on the road today. Driven by people who are willing to work out the bugs and take good care of them. I say you take care of the Kia,maintain it as any automobile should be maintained,and prove to the masses that the Koreans Can build a automobile that will last 30 plus years. People hammered Japanese "Junk" cars for two or three decades. I see lots of them on the road.

Ahead and inboard of the rear right tire by just a few inches. It sits on a tray that is fastend with three 10mm bolts. The pump itself is hidden from view.

Nice! A real survivor. The last of the "Real" Toyota trucks. I bought a 'Really nice '86 in '89. I had no idea of the problems I was gonna have with the IFS. Man,I'd be for restoring that thing.

I found this one at Schucks. I'm not a big fan of Schucks,but I do like Cheap. http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=03244&PartType=683&PTSet=A

I think the idea is to use the ea81 flywheel,ea82 friction disk and ea81 pressure plate. I think. I don't quite understand what combination you are using.

Yes..Scrap steel is way down from the crazy prices of two summers ago. I think the peak was $550 a ton. It's $65 a ton right now. So,yeah,it's way down.

If you do decide to reseal the oil pump,you might consider leaving off the timing belt covers. In fact,take the time to remove the cam sprockets and get the backs off too. It absolutly changes a guys whole attitude about maintaining the front components of your ea82 engine.

Hmmmmmm.....That Really Sucks. The place is amazing. I could roam around in there for hours. The prices were always fair. The old man,Jimmy Junk, was quite a charecter. All the other employees would weigh whatever you wanted to buy. Not Jimmy. He would look you in the eyes almost as if he was trying to guage how much money you had in your pocket. Maybe I'll drive by there today and see whats crackin. The place is Huge and all that scrap didn't evaporate.

J&J Metals. Over by the Tumwater airport. I heard the old man passed away earlier this year but,his son was gonna continue the business. I haven't been there in a while. Maybe worth a look. 912 73rd Avenue SE, Olympia, WA 98501

More than likely some of the compression rings were frozen/rusted into the grooves. I've run into this before. Seems the tell tale sign is really weird compression readings. Like zero to over a hundred and back to zero. Some marvel oil into they cyl. and put the plugs back in and crank for all its worth. It forces the oil past the rings and eventully they free up. If you can get it to start, they have no choice but to free up all the way. At least thats been my experience on a couple cars that have sat for a long time.

Get an Oil Pump Reseal kit at the parts store ($20) and reseal the pump. Beyond that,I wouldn't do anything. Did you install new OEM Cam tower O-Rings when you did the HG's?

I messed with that screw a while back. And, regretted it. I had all the bad idle issues your talking about and I could never quite get it set right. I did actually get it really close to where it was tolerable,but,of course,I messed with it again,and made it worse. Very worse. It's only function,as far as I know,is to keep the throttle plate from sticking in the intake bore. If the throttle plate goes to a flat,90 degree horizontal position,and is allowed to cool,like your car sits overnight,then you come out to start your car in the morning,the plate will be siezed in the boar. The set screw is designed to keep the plate a couple degrees off horizontal so it doesn't do that. The plate can become so seized in the boar that it will actually destroy your throttle cable as your pumping on the gas pedel wondering why the heck the gas pedal feels weird. I know 'cause this is what finally happend to me before I "fixed" the problem. In the end,I went to the wrecking yard and found a throttle body that hadn't been messed with. You can tell a good one 'cause it will have dried white paint on the set screw that hasn't been disturbed. Thats what worked for me,anyway. Life is back to normal now. But,it was quite a horrible experience.

You need to stay under 25"....I had 25.4" tires on my '91 bone stock loyale,and they occasionally rubbed. Not bad,but any is too much. I went to a 24.4" and they are perfect. Use the Miata tire calculator (google it) or some other and just enter the numbers for the tires your interested in. If the Dia. is less than 25",you should be fine. 27's are out of the question,completly.