markjw

I guess I'd check for compression in all cylinders. Ideally,you would have 150 lbs/psi or so,in each hole. If you have good compression,then I'd be looking at a possible plugged exhaust. Like maybe the cat is plugged.

Yeah. You have to use the adapter's that came with your kit. They are not just adapters,they are the other half of what completes a sealed connection for your sender. So,you have to find a adapter for your adapter.

I agree... I could eventually get it done,too. But,weeks later and a thousand dollars later,I MIGHT have something that works. Unless metal fab is a hobby or interest that you may have,you are far better off buying one from someone who's in the business.

This fella here makes some of the best Lift Kits around. http://www.sjrlift.com/

I can't get that link to work for me,but you need the 8-7/8" OD Clutch Kit. Instead of the 2wd,7-7/8" OD Clutch. As far as which ones better?,The cheapest one is the best one. For me anyway.

I've got the same situation going with a white hatch over in the Dalles,Ore. Its siting in some kinda county impound yard amongst a few other impounds. It's been in the same spot for four months that I know of. I have so far found out it's probably a County Sheriff storage area. Not too much hope in a rescue,but it's a Nice one. I'd hate to see it go to the Crusher.

The 49 Railroad bridge that crosses from Washington to Oregon,just down stream of the Interstate 5 Hwy bridge has been closed all afternoon and evening. Closed to river traffic that is. Apparently,it's so hot out,that the steel hinge pins that lock the bridge into rail traffic position will not disengage because the metal is swollen from the heat. So,we're tied to a dock at Sundial. Troutdale area. Waiting for the steel to cool enough for the locks to release so they can swing the bridge for river traffic. A/C is working fine in the wheelhouse. Two overhead,RV style A/C's working double time just to keep up. Just wanted to share. Sorry about the off topic post.

I understand the concept of the dual core radiator being "better" than a single core. But,if everything else is in proper working order (e.g. thermostate,headgaskets,fans) then,shouldn't a new, standard replacement single core be adequate? I'm also looking to replace the radiator in a ea82 car. But,I've also replaced all the other cooling related components with new parts recommended by the board. Headgaskets,too. So,I'm going with the standard replacement radiator. Is that a bad idea?

Yeah,I don't know. I've tried to buy two cars out of two different yards in Oregon. One in the Dalles and one in Bend. I was turned down both times. And,both yard owners stated the same reason. That it was no longer legal to sell cars out of the yard. I'd grab that coupe if I could. It looks Great. At least what I can see of it.

Are you kidding me? Those cars are in Awesome shape. Just gettin' broke in,really. I'd love to have the coupe.

Once they make it out to the yard,they're no longer for sale as a whole car w/title. Oregon State law. Maybe in the staging area they still are. But,I doubt it.

Maybe one of your tires had developed a bulge on the tread surface. Sometimes almost impossible to see. You kinda have to feel for it.

I have had Great luck with Rock Auto. The parts are exactly as described,and they ship Fast. I cant comment on the other site. But,like someone else mentioned,watch the shipping quote from rock auto. Sometimes it seems kinda high.

What about a couple new valves? Can I just install some parts store valves into the seats that are in the head and call it good? I've been reading about lapping. It seems to be a controversial subject as to its validity.

I have no clue why the valve didn't get sucked into the cylinder when the keeper let go. I wasn't driving when all this happend so,i can't say for sure what happend. I do know the Rockers got tossed around a bit. The pads which ride on the cam were a bit marred up. So,I want to replace them. The cam survived well. The lobes are in geat shape. Definitly reusuable. My post over a FTE was mainly about putting New rockers on a existing cam. And the effects it would have on the cam as far as wear. I talked to Terry about it at CCR and apparently,as long as there are no flat spots on the rockers or cam lobes,it should be fine. Pretty much what you said over at FTE. (thanks for the reply,by the way) So,thats what I'm gonna do. Replace the stuff that was damaged,put it all back together,and go for it.

I did. It looks really good. While it was still in the car,a compression test showed 150lbs in both #1 and #3 cyl. #2 was at 0,and #4 was at about 5lbs. Its the inside valve, on #2 cyl. is where the keeper let go. But,both inside rockers were laying in the bottom of the cam case.

The valve seems to have free movement. Almost like a suction in the valve stem. It feels right. But,I'm suspicios of the head.Like GD said,what made it happen? I'm going to take the head in to a machine shop. I'm wondering, aside from the usual service of checking for cracks,flatness and cleaning, should I take all the parts I found and ask them to check it out,and if everything looks good, reassemble it with existing parts? Or,should I just ask them to replace some stuff/everything? If I do want them to replace parts,should I source and supply them? What do you guys think? This motor is pretty sweet,otherwise. It is worth saving.

I've tried that. A couple times. Usually for the exact reason your thinking about. To track down a vibration or a whine. I can tell you that it never worked for me. It seems that the whole dynamics of the drive train changes without the load. So,the noise and vibe's dissapear. In the end,in my situation,it was a u joint on one occasion and a rear wheel bearing on another. I say don't waste your time doing that.

Yeah...I figured it wasn't gonna be that simple. At this point,we're gonna pull the motor and pull the head. Have a good look around. Thanks for the advice.

I can't say much about abbrasion resistace. I have only used it on frames and stuff. But,I can say its pretty expensive to be using that way. I'd stick with spray paint for that kinda stuff.

Can I install the springs and keepers by hand? Should I find diffrent/new keepers?

I'm trying to help a friend fix his '91 loyale. We pulled the drivers side valve cover off and found a couple rockers,springs and a keeper laying in the bottom of the cam tower. I have no idea what I should do next. 'cept maybe replace the whole motor. Anyone got a better idea? 160k on the motor and never abused.

I've used the same product a few times. Alls I did was wire wheel the heavy rust off, wash the area (frame in my case) with sope and water,let it dry and paint on the POR...It stuck like glue. Looked great the day I sold the rig several years later. POR and other compounds like it need a certain amount of surface rust to work right. I never spent the extra $ on the "special" prep products.

Now that the city of Seattle is using salt on the roads,it wont be long before alot of the PNW subi's are rusty. Along with anything else thats a few years old. It's been a fun ride,but our days/years are numberd. It looks Great,Connie. I know your not driving it in the winter,either. I'm staying far away from Seattle during the winter months,also.

I just saw them. Thank.