markjw

Don't forget the cam tower o rings. One per side. I get um at the dealership. About $3 apiece.

No..The "0" is TDC. The B is for BTDC, Before Top Dead Center...

Yeah,well, in that case,I'd start with a complete valve/rocker adjustment and I wouldn't start the engine again until that is done. Search the proceedure. You need feeler guages and a 10mm wrench. And the 22mm socket I mentioned. Plus,a spark plug socket. Its tedious work,but absolutely needs to be done and is most likely your problem. Or,at least part of. Man,there's people on this board who are alot better at this than I am,but they ain't around at 2am. Sounds like your in a bit of a jam right now so I'm trying to help you. If you can wait awhile,you'd get alot better advice from a certain few others. The seach button is your best friend right now. But,trust me on the valve adjustment. It needs to be done.

Is it a hydro-lifter motor,or a solid lifter motor? Did the guy adjust the rockers after he put the valve train back on? The push rods will be loose. Some of them anyway. Others not so much. Which ones are loose and not loose depends on the position of the valve train as it does its job opening and closing valves.

+1 ^

Do a search on it. It's been explained in great detail here. You will need a spark plug socket, 22mm socket,a breaker bar or ratchet and a 10mm wrench.

Never mind. You don't have cam towers. I was thinking ea82.

Did you install a new O-Ring between the cam tower and top of the head?

Good luck,GD. It sounds like a solid enough plan. I'd like to be able to do something like that,but with kids and all,I gotta stay here. If I threw caution to the wind,left a steady job and failed miserably,that'd be one thing. To take those same chances with kids in tow,that's unexceptable. At least thats how I see it. I have never been layed off so I have to be careful about thinking/sounding cocky when it comes to being out of work. I've never had to deal with it and I know how ignorance can breed arrogance. But, if I was forced into the job market or given the opportunity to strike out on my own,thru lay off or whatever,I think I could make a good go of it. I like the idea that you plan to use this opportunity to prosper rather than survive. Attitude is Everything.

You mean the 36mm castle nut on the end of the axle? I stand on um with a breaker bar and I'm over 200lbs. So,basically,as tight as I can get um. That works for me.

Try the tap alone first. Maybe there's enough at the end of the hole to allow a temp. fix. Find a little longer bolt (10x1.25) than you actually need. After you run the tap in a couple times, see if the bolt will grab any threads at the end of the hole. If it will,just add a couple lock washers on the bolt and use it. I just did this very exact thing a couple weeks ago. It still needs repaired,but it bought me some time and I'm not ruining my new gaskests with a exhust leak. I didn't have a tap,thou. I ground a couple flutes into a used head bolt to chase the threads with. The Kit at the auto parts store was $30:eek:

Hey Rob, I think thats the sweetest ea81 car I've ever seen. A Rare Gem,for sure.

Hey,if you see a tug boat out on the Columbia R. that says "The Chief" on it, That's me. Wish I could be there.....

Yeah,I just did this a couple times. Gloyale is telling you where the last bolt is. Far to the left. Almost under the PS pump. You have to feel for it. You really can't see it. Just loosen it,thou. Don't remove it. And lift the pump straight up.

I seen a tidy spark plug thread repair kit at Schucks the other day. It came with at least a couple inserts and the tools to install them. I believe it was $17. It prolly says so on the package/instructions but,when you cut the new threads,you can use some bearing grease on the cutting tool to catch the metal chips. You know,so they don't go into the cyl.

For me, $300 tops. And thats only if your sure all the work was done correctly. And only because he is supposedly a subi mech with mad subi skills. But,I bet he wouldn't like that offer.

Be careful when you break lose the six manifold bolds. Don't be careless with any of them. Use a breaker bar with a six inch extension. A six sided socket in good shape works best. Square your body with the front of the vehicle,lean directly over the bolt and apply steady pressure. Keep the extension/socket directly in line with the bolt and even after it breaks free,go slow taking them out the rest of the way. Wire wheel them clean before you re-install. If you twist one off,you'll be then:mad: then:(

Buy it! Install it and maintain it the way you know it needs to be maintained. After you put 200K miles on it,you will have proved to the masses the engine is viable. It just needs the kind of attention only a gear head can give it.

I'm also wondering about the Rust Repair. Maybe the Rhino Liner works the way products like Rust Bullet and POR-15 work? Only,more durable.

Yup. Thats it. The three marks on the flywheel. I use the middle one of the three. I line it up directly under the cast pointer/indicator.

Thanks for all the positive comments. It's my first ea82 vehicle,and I am really happy with it. I had to do a bunch of work to the motor to get it going,but in the end,it runs very well. I figured out how to do almost all the work thru the search function, mostly.And,after resealing the motor and replacing some of the valve train components,it runs like a top. It sat in this guys garage for 5 or 6 years with a bad head gasket and some other crazy valve train problems. Originally,it was going to be my brother in law's ride,but he lost interest pretty quick when I told him we had to pull the motor. Some people don't understand how rewarding it is to bring one back to life.

Well Said... I'm not either. Usually. The look is growing on me,thou. My wife loves it.

Yeah,I guess they are.

It's definitely a diffrent look from the bone stock steelies and hubcaps I usually run. I feel a little too old to be crusing around in something so Sporty.