j2coe

the purge control solenoid is actually attached to one of the vaccume lines coming off the canister thing. it controls the vacume to the cannister. it should be on the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold and also have an electrical connection plugged to it. its a metal square thing with two vaccume lines and a small vent/filter on one end if it hasn't been broken off. it's hard to find since its sort of under other things.

do the oil pan if you're moving the engine, since you have to lift the engine to replace it anyway, no need to pull it twice if you find out it's leaking or starts later.

thanks, I wonder why it didn't come up when I searched under the number? the 4s did but not the 5s, weird.

yes, but amazon doesn't have the SB-8005 25 spline that I could find, so only the SB-8004 23 spline ones for the automatics were listed.

the 2 row doesn't really take any more space. if you look at the sides oh the 1 row one side is centered and one is to the edge of the the sides, on the 2 rows the rows just are side by side and take up the space front to back of the sides, I'd have to look but I think the side that's close to the fan is the one that is at the edge of the side tank on the radiator any way so you don't lose any space with a 2 row. that's that I have in mine. cheap trick if you dont want to pull the fan just protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when pulling radiator in and out.

GCK lists the 23 spline for automatics and 25 spline for manual, so these wont work on a 88 GL-10 manual.

and, WOO HOO! power streering!

I guess it just needed to reset, it stayed on untill I shut the car off and started it again. the no light.

well seems to run, just bled the system of air but the power steering light won't go off. don't know what that's about. I'll have to see anyone have any ideas? I'll drive it around and see if it changes but its been idling for 20 minutes and no change.

thanks superwho. looks like exactly like what I needed. I found the little blue wire information on the XT site last night, took a lot of searching. but you just finished off what I needed. many thanks. I just rebuilt it with new brushes and drained it and filling with new subaru PS fluid so I'll be firing it up tonight to see if I have PS now. thanks again for the pics!

probably a warning light to tell you you're exceeding 55 MPH, did they ever have those installed around the time of the national 55 speed limit ?

there was an 85 RX at A1 the U pull lot down here in the springs last time I was there on saturday. I dont know if it has the steering rack or not.

well I found 1 post about the blue wire on the XT site and it shows where it goes to the harness so I have that end sorted out. nothing on where it connects to the motor . the other end is small so it has to go to the negative pole or the ground won't fit the positive pole so that narrows it down. I'll have to go out and look in the morning I think I marked it on the motor it was the negative pole but I don't remember, that may have been the regular negtative blue lead from the controler. so I guess the white lead from the fusable link box does go to the positive pole then with the red lead from the power controler.

thanks I love it when even the factory service manual seems to contradict itself. makes it much harder to clean up other peoples messes.

when you disconnect the battery it clears the codes from the ECU. did you check them before you disconnected the battery to let it cool down?

for the electrical motor for the power steering, the service manual shows in the wiring diagram a wire to the fusable link box labled W8 that connects to the positive terminal along with the red lead from the lead from the control box. there is one of the 10 gague white wires that is disconnected near the motor. in the diagram of the power steering motor it shows a blue wire along with the red wire but no white wire. there was a small blue wire attached to the positive terminal but it was loose and not connected to anything on the other end. anyone who knows how these are connected please enlighten me. thanks so much!

that would be five long and five short, not just five short repeated. but + on type of car, and year, carb, FI, etc,

model designation 49 states (non california) and canada,

it always makes me think of fhut the whuck. like when I see other people doing things I do like hauling washing machines on top of their car

do you think it has to be adjusted to the engine, or if one of us can measure the length on one thats set currently with a caliper it would at least be a good start?

when I had the electrical contact part on the side of the gear next to the motor appart for cleaning there were more than 1 track. this was a couple years ago so I'll have to check if I can find it. one continuois and one intermitent. it would make sense if the intermitent contact path was "hot" and would run the motor a certain distance and then shut off when it reached the gap in the circle to open and close the light, and the continuous path was switched to start it running so the other would take over and be automatic sort of like the power windows.

sweet! bet that does nothing for your milage.

guess you shouldn't push down on it hard enough to crease it might break the glue.

codes will be stored, dont have to start the car just turn the key to power. I don't see what model it is in the thread so unless it's an odd one the ECU should be under the steering column.

+1 to cleaning the switch contacts, I usually buse scotch bright pads, but I seem to find cars that have black nasty deposited on them. anyone tried dilectric grease to protect them from build up?