j2coe

I have to throw in with mikeshoup. I see ads "never driven over 3000 RPM" and roll my eyes. its a subaru 4 cylinder and most 4 cylinders build their torque and power at a higher RPM. somewhere 3000 to 5500 optimal I believe, I don't remember? people try to drive them like they're a V8 that build torque and power at a lower range and just lug the engine. know what your driving, these are built to run at a higher RPM, and I cant say I havent had mine (the turbos) up past 6000. but that's when I'm playing not daily driving.

I have a couple rolls of the 18" wide duct tape. awesome for big structural work and surfacing, you should find some for the finish coat.

no one in town but the dealer even listed the parts, not even the import specialist who does hard to find stuff. I couldn't find anthing in a search online either. thanks for the referal talked to anthonys, will keep the phone #

anyone know anywhere to order electrical brushes for the motor for XT6 power steering pump? the dealership here wants $150 for a set. someone made a comment in another thread about me making a joke about dealer prices. maybe it's just the dealership here but I haven't checked a price for any part there that's been less than that.

so more or less whole fuel system will need bebugging sounds like. pressure reg, injectors, god only knows what the filter is like thanks for the pointers guys.

I think I'm gonna start a sooby dealership in cally

it's an 88RX so it should be FI unless somebody swapped something shouldnt be carbed. ECU maybe in limp mode dumping fuel though.

saw an ad for a sooby for sale. haven't been able to look at it yet. ad says it makes black smoke. white usually coolant, bluish white oil. what is black? I haven't personally seen one do that. any one know off hand?

not much going to interchange between an 84 and a 92.

that is my understanding. I was going to do the same thing, but the more I read it didn't sound like it would work right. that was just based on the compression ratios being diffewrent between the two though. you might want to wait for one of the more experiences swappers opinions thought.

are you talking about swapping a carburated donor for the basic engine and keeping the SPFI? the compression ratios are different in the specs so it would probably mess up the ECU to not have the right compression. as far as just taking the whole thing out and replacing it whole sale it should bolt up as long as the model range is the same then you could replace the ECU with the one that matches the motor.

best bet of course would be to buy the part from AA. but I'm the kind who would compare the non-power and power steering and then see if it looks like an easy fix to the extension you already have when you're ready to upgrade your steering. a little zzz and a little if you already have the mig, the extension doesn't look that complicated as long as it'll be strong enough and the correct size when you're done.

cougar just helped me out with a very similar problem. mine was a multiport FI model that ended up being the ECU but there were a lot of other things we tried along the way. you can look through that thread for other things we tried though. I think it's back on page 3 now "ignition problem"

nippers suggertion works better if you can put it on jack stands so none of the wheels are on the ground too no worries of getting run over.

I don't know the price but It wouldn't surprise me the the last thing I priced at a dealer

sounds ignition related. cougar was helping me with mine which turned out to be a bad ECU. but there are lots of things to check before you get to that. the plugs are a place to start see if they're fouled badly or if the gap is way off, if you're getting voltage to the coil should read 10v or more on each side, if the distributor cap has condensation in it or deposites on the metal tabs inside. then you might need to see if you are getting spark out to the plugs. that should get you started any way. one of the more advanced people will jump in if they haven't already.

dealer can probably get you one for $100. or find an engine somebody already tore apart at a salvage yard and pull it out for a buck.

that one must have a pretty good wear mark in it from the sound of it.

no problem, hope it works out, I've been wanting one of their kits but $700 is a bit much right now. maybe someday. actually working on plans for my own so we'll see. good luck.

it should all be in the steering column. there's the lock pin in the ignition that should disegage with the key turning. when mine sticks a little light pressure turning on the wheel when I turn the kew usually frees it try both directions since it can lock with pressure going either direction depending on which way the wheel was turned. jiggling doesnt work for mine, and don't really crank on it either just enough to take the pressure off the lock.

what is the phrase? "IT WOULD BE BAD"

or buy a used wet suit at good will and make it out of that and watch your engine compartment catch fire

you can look at allied armament's web site, it shows some of the components, but not all, and it looks like it might have 2 versions in 2 places. older kit and newer kit. that would be a start I guess. I don't suppose the instructions will have a parts list? maybe you can read through them and identify things from the instructions. there should be parts that will go at the front struts the engin crossmember the moustache bar and the rear shocks, beyond that I'm not sure. wish I had more for you.

you got a ride and your axle awesome! I kept the internals the same just changed the aluminum cage on the front to a 180 degre instead of the one that was there. I'll try to find a better pully but who knows how long that would take. I was just going to make something for now to try it out till I can. they're a *************** to get off too, maybe with an impact wrench?

the rotation drives a magnet that is picked up by coils that drive the needle. kind of a little generator. fiddly and complicated. so the faster the rotation the higher the output voltage the stronger the signal the higher the needle reads. 0 rotation 0 needle movement, really fast really big signal. fried electrical that fuses some coils = reads way off makes sense. I doubt the calibration adjuster discussed earlier would compensate for tire diference any way, unlikely to have enough adjustment, just for fine tuning / calebration.