j2coe

that would be cool if you could adjust it, but how would know where to set it? isn't something that you can pull out the meter and tweak while driving having your instrument cluster handing loose. thats most likely for initial calebration. I suppose if you just played around with it marked the starting point and adjusted it say 1/4 turn at a time and tried it again to see what difference it made in the speedo readings you could make a chart. Right turn and Left turn will slow or speed or whatever and by how much. be a major hastle if I recall trying to get into a dash though taking it out and putting it in to check the changes. there are shops that do speedometers repair aren't there? maybe they could tell you.

Hopeb you find a good axel. I keep thinking it would be nice to be a driver for an auto parts place like NAPA. you only have to deal with people for brief periods, you get to drive around all day, and employee discount! of course you can't eat any of the products but it would probably be steadier than a resturant.

mine is at an electrical shop seeing if he can get parts or if , I opened it and it was fried, plastic parts melted, ick. I found 2 in nissans with different cases I've frankensteined together and I just need to make a spacer to allign the pully and should be good to go. I think I'll see if the internals of the second will fit mine. one of the two looked slightly different than the other but I dont remember which is like mine. take it by thee shop tonight and see.

1/8" white pinstriping tape and put new bolder marks on the speedometer for the actual readings? probably have to check with a specialty tranny or racing shop I haven't heard if a speedometer gear changer for soobies, maybe there are universal ones?

or trim the fenders good evcuse to get rid of some rust.

tried signing up over a week ago for the site, it just says I'm an inactive user can't log in. recommends contacting site administrator but there is no address or other contact info to do that. maybe every one's on vacation. if any one knbows how to contact their site adminsatrator let me know. you probably have to log in to do it.

If there's a pull it yourself salvage lot near you try them. a headlamp assembly here is about 20$ do it yourself. way cheaper and you get to practice taking them out so if you mess one up go find another before you tear your car up putting them in

sometimes you can start your center hole with a small bit to drill it out. it won't get moved around like a big bit. don't go deep just enough to make a pit that a bigger bit can hold till its past the rough surface.

looks same height as the one I used to have, it was stock.

might work better with the rest of the car. what are you doing with it? replacing another one, do you have the original out of your car? swapping a different tranny? kind of need a story to go woth the part.

funny that was what caught my eye too, not the one piled with wood, but the nice lifted one in the background.

drill it and retap? if you want to put another one on later. otherwise there's always the ol' hacksawzzz

I think I'm going to redo my exhaust, but I might sweep it back to match the line of the door.

I had to do that whole swap once in bad times. just got the steering knuckle and shaft, (bearing are in there of course) from the U pull it lot out of a lightly used vehicle. I think the whole thing was about $30 or $40. of course thats if you have a do it yourself salvage place and the time. of course then you have to get the tie rod out but my bearings were shot so I had to do them one way or the other so this was easier and a lot cheaper at the time than new bearings and having them pressed in.

yeah this one has press fits, and a helicoil on the threaded side. I'll check the body diamentions too thanks.

gasket aside that's one thing I would buy after market if I ever found one. an oil pan with a realy stiff edge that would seal. I don't think I've seen one that didn't leak some, usually some one over tightened it some where along the way and they are never flat again.

sweet! it's salvage yard tonight I measured the distance of the tabs so I should be able to figere out if one of the other vehicles will fit. the one out of my soob has the mitsubishi tripple diamond cast into it so I might check those too. I thought they were made by hitachi too, maybe one is owned by the other, like subaru being part of fuji. ant way thanks this might save some time and money.

you will most likely get more info under the new subaru info forum lots of very knowledgable folks with good advice. anyway it sounds like you are trying to run a 2.2 engine with a 2.5 harness and ECU just by splicing the connectors for the fuel injectors? post under new subaru and it will most likely also give you some old threads to follow and you might find a wiring diagram that can show you the differences in the harneses. I'd point mor specific but i'm an older model soobie. good luck.

daeron sorry- no I missed the bigger alt part of your message, just the mess they made of the electrics, I have no problem trying to upgrade if the parts fit, or can be made to fit what fun is life with out a little experimentation here and there. are the bodies on the maxima alts similar to the soobs or do they need modification? or would you just swap the internals? if the bodies are the same I'm going hunting tomorrow at the salvage yard!

I saw the post on the reverse, putting an XT6 alt in an EJ, but nothing on the other way around, I'm not sure of all the differences, I don't think the EJ alts are fan cooled like the XT6 are but they would be cheaper and easier to find. then there's the serpentine belt pully issue. Mike thanks for the post with the service manuals, someone showed me the link but it looks like it's from you. been trying to find XT6 manual for more than a week since I got it.

alternator's toast I havent seen a swap for an XT6 to put anything else in there. I don't know if the GM swap I read in here could be further modified to fit the XT6 mounts or not. confused: the electrics would be easy enough, but there would be the mount issue and it runs a serpentine belt not a V. I might play with it though one of these days. too bad the salvage yard is closed I could go poke around and see what's there,maybe tomorrow. I know there aren't any XT6s anywhere around here.

I saw in a previous post to ask for the 89 turbo with auto tranny, that will bring up the specs that will get the 2 row replacement.

they already (tried) to do that. thats part of the mess I've been sorting out with cougar in the ignition problem thread over the weekend. spliced in a new fusable link box and had the wrong amp fusable links in the ignition black not green and cooked the ECU. thats all sorted out (I hope, at least starting and running right) now I can see what else they messed up.

thanks, I was just reading one of related threads at the bottom. I'll have the alt checked out tonight then look at the ground cluster if needed. I was wondering about the alt anyway since the plastic around the terminal where the white wires attach is kind of melted and bubbly. the previous owners really toasted the electrics.

anybody ever seen all the warning lights that stay on? this is an XT6 but other models may relate. I know the break fluid isn't low, the rest I haven't had time to check out, but that one makes me suspicious it's a system problem like a ground fault or short.