j2coe

it wouldn't start, it was the wifes car and her husband and brother in law work on hondas:rolleyes:. any way they had more or less demolished the starting/ electrical system. I got a box of half a dozen igniters, a second distributor, a second fusable link box which they had chopped out and spliced in another one. the crank angle sensor distributor had been disasembled and put back together totally wrong, and finally the ECU was fried. lord only knows why it wouldn't start when they started trying to fix it but I think they did much more damage than repair along the way. It's functional again and on it's way back to beautiful subaru.

thanks to cougar, nipper, daeron, mikeshoup, and anyone else who helped with the posts on the poor defenseless XT6 I was trying to save. I posted some pictures so you can see what you helped save. The people I got it from were about to scrap it.

yeah (DUH) missed the parenthases.

if you're playing with the valves do you have new valve cover gaskets? good to replace if you're taking them off anyway unless they've been done recently and flexible enough to reseal.

same thing, I sent him to napa after he returned the 3rd wrong set. perfect fit first time. no crow bar to install. OK it was $30 in stead of $18 but they should last for years.

better to test it and the battery they're easy. then you can worry about harder stuff

that's the problem I can't find it again, theres a part in the haynes manual for checking the throttle valve switch and sensor, but there was something else I saw reading on another subject that mentioned idle speed that didn't give any further information, the part wasn't in the index, etc, now I can't find where I saw the reference to ask about what it was or if it's really relevant.

most parts places will check alternators for free. if the voltage is dropping to 10 while running with nothing on it could be the regulator, easiest to have it checked and remove the doubt then you can look for less obvious things.

OH, it wasn't a serious suggestion. It has always just surprised me the lack of aftermarket for subarus, considering the huge ammount available for some of the weird crap cars out there.

AMEN to distilled water!

anyone else have an idle that takes forever to return to normal? my RX seems to run fine otherwise but the idle stays up around 2000 RPM and takes a full minute or so to drift back to 7-800. The cable seems to be OK and not binding, same for the throttle cam itself. I saw some sensor mentioned in a book but it didn't give any information on where it was located or how to check it so I don't know if it could be that or not.

maybe if we all write energy suspension they will at least start makeing urethane kits for subarus to stiffen things up instead of the rubber bushings. not the same but every bit helps.

may the best of your past be worst of your future. HBD. and many subarus to come

sounds good. none of my friends but one know anything about cars so it would be good to know someone else who likes to play with these things. I have a small fridge for just such beverages to lubricate automotive work, HAH!

I've made new coils too but don't have coating material, and it's hard to find the wire. that would be nice to be able to redo the wire and then coat them.

anyone in need of parts there's an 85' brat at the A1 salvage in CO springs

yeah I guess there are a couple. I was going to get another one but the guy I arranged to meet didn't wait and sold it before I got out of work. I have another GL-10 with a blown head gasket that I need to do any way, sounds like your RX? might have to have a springs wrench fest one of these days and get them sorted out.

disty in 180 degrees off? I suppose it wouldnt even chug if it was, just crank but not turn over. I didn't tighten my air intake once and it would just start but died as soon as I gave it gas, it was hard to see, stupid mistake and took a while to find. double check your connections like mikeshoup suggested.

wasn't me, I have a white RX but I'm in CO springs, and was in my GL-10 tonight.

and you got rid of the old gas from "a while ago" and got fresh gas?

+1 carb cleaner? good cleaning never hurts, rebuild kit? if you dont want to or can't replace it. I mostly play with FI but a clean system makes a lot of difference.

I've never had a problem with NAPA belts either a little pricier but seem to be worth it, helped a friend with his and autozone gave him the wrong sizes 3 times.

I think you'll find they run most efficiently 3500 to 4500 range depends on the quirks of the car, but lower than that is usually bogging it down and actually making it work harder and wasting fuel, ever tried to pedal a bike in too high a gear up a hill? same thing for soobies, smaller engine needs a little more speed to make up for less brute power.

could you email a copy of one of those?

the coating is to protect the nichrome wire from oxidation. at high temperatures when it is working as a resistor to change the fan speed it becomes extrememly hot. like most metals when heated and cooled it oxidizes and corrodes.