j2coe

an impact wrench is invaluable if you're trying to change the pully, zips the nut right off. fought the sucker trying to find some way to secure it and hold it so it wouldn't turn to use a regular socket, couldn't do it.

do those low pressure turbos have boost at idle? I think he just means it reads on the gague since the turbo is always spinning due to the exhaust gas running through it, low at idle and high at red line. the boost is usually activated by the gate opening. or am I way off?

people wil need the year to be able to help

Colorado subaru people, sounds fun, hopefully as a new addition I'll be available to come out and play.

you know what ever you all are on you REALLY need to share some with the rest of us.

you can also look at the same parts out of a same year wagon. I found good wheel wells I was going to put in a brat a couple years back. being inside they're better protected.

if it was done new at the factory it wouldn't necessarily trap moisture and worsen rust issues like nipper was talking about, it could seal it out and improve longevity. but for the likes of trying to do it with 10 to 20 year old cars...

I suppose just like paint if there's the slightest rust it will just keep it trapped and eat it out in pockets. that would be no good.

I admit I've considered the sound deadening applications, but I think I'm also a bit frightened by the prospect of structural metal being replaced by foam. be scared, be very a-scared

well the engine turns fine, and its got oil. I haven't drained it yet but I have another cam carrier and rockers and lifters just in case. I will tear it appart in the next day or so hopefully and see.

yeah, sorry, my thoughts and my typing don't always connect quite right

those aren't the full time 4wd or AWD are they? other wise there should be an indicator light on the dash that turns on when the 4wd in engaged. that can also not work if the switch on the transaxel is bad or the bulb is out though. doesn't mean the 4wd isn't working. find a straight stretch of road and try to engage it and disengage it and see if you feel a diference.

I guess I wrote that wrong the numbers are right, the marks are each 2 degrees, so 10, and 20, marks are right, but each notch is 2 degrees not 1, sorry for the confusion.

well the ones on the fly wheel, turbos are supposed to have a timing mark on the main pully and the scale on a plastic thing next to it but none of mine do. so I always have to use the marks on the fly wheel.

each mark is 2 degrees, so the 10 is 20 degrees, etc, you probably know that but some people don't, and it messes them up.

sounds like it's shorted in there pull the resistor block out and have a look, the first couple will be burned open and one has most likely contacted some where it shouln't like the frame to short and dim the panel.

just flipped the haynes open, it says all 85 and 86 turbo 25 degrees BTDC. that's new to me.

what is the idle speed once you connect the green test plugs for setting the timing? should be 800 for setting timing. adjustment idle speed adjust is in a recessed hole on the back of the air intake at the top of the manifold.

they have oil caps? I thought they cam from the factory with rags stuck in there so you can wipe the oil dipstick.

couldn't you just fill the syringe with oil and inject into the lifter like you would with a grease gun?

something for coating/painting parts, especially underneath, is por-15. good stuff, kind of expensive but holds up really well and stops rust. you should look them up.

just picked up a car most likely for parts. EA82 engine, MPFI turbo, drivers side cam is frozen won't turn, per previous owners and I can't budge it either, removed the valve cover it has hydraulic lifters, and the cam is rough and scored the third lobe back looks bone dry and some coloring in the scoring rainbow like when you heat metal. think isn't worth putting a new cam assembly from the JY to see if it runs? If it froze and discolored would you think there was at least one blocked oil channel? something else caused the problem.

I always keep the sound off on my computer, I just turned it on to see. I suppose once one is an elite master with more experience the trial to error tips in favor of trial, I still have more error but I keep working at it.

Ah, I didn't see there was a movie, I just looked at the picture, sounds worse than it looks, chattery, maybe that 1/2 quart ATF to losen the lifters ih they're hydraulic, people keep talking about. I've never tried it but I've seen about 4 references to it in the past 2 weeks. probably need to wait for someone else, I haven't heard that noise myself.

looks like the the vent hose from the valve cover to the air intake, but blurry enough I couldnt swear to it. if it is - new hose, easy fix.