CNY_Dave

Aside from *maybe* the front speed sensor, I think a correct ratio 4EAT could be used, with the rear section swapped. The H6 4EATs I hear have a beefier part somewhere, but haven't seen pics etc.

Yeah idled. Took about 20-25 minutes I guess. Can't let much out or the pressure drops too much to even idle it. easiest probably to use a C clamp or such, start crimped off, then loosen slowly until it gets rough, then tighten till runs smooth.

Did this last night, T fitting with needle-node channel locks holding hose mostly shut. Slow, but captured about 5 gallons that the scrapper won't get!

I tried to get a thin line into my tank, there's like 6 gallons in there! No go. I think I will just T into the feed to the engine and use small enough line/fittings that it'll still idle.

If fuel filter is in the engine bay and has 3 lines, the return line to tank could be routed to a jerry can and the engine run. I have to drain down mine this week prior to it going to the scrapyard (my '03 LL bean H6 with exhaust gas in the coolant). Scrap prices really suck right now! $80/ton for a car (4 cents/lb!)

Spiders maybe broke. Presumably you have no drive to the rear wheels. A chunk could migrate and make something interesting happen.

BTW only the VDCs had VTD in Gen2 H6's.

If you can get some out to check it visually and a 'sniff' test, you could make an educated guess. If it was ethanol fuel, it might need a good bit of dilution and drygas.

The ute idea, I like!

I have the bigger HF transmission jack- I had to have the rear jacked up with jack stands with a 2x10 underneath each jack stand, and the front was on good jack stands with I think 2 pieces of 2x10 under each one. I have a decent floor jack and needed to put a 4x4 on it to raise the car high enough. The jack has a height of about 8.5 inches, pretty high http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html

The changeover was for 5EATs, they got the subaru-only HP stuff, our 2006 outback 4EAT uses Dex-iii

I used a metal bar from top of radiator support to in front of the windshield, I think. Something like that. Bolted it right to something on the intake.

I used some lucas to stretch mine out, was so thick and sticky it slung off the ring gear, up onto the bottom of the dipstick, and literally pushed it out and spewed all over.

I went from a '92 ranger 4L 6 5spd to an outback 3L 6. Loved the ranger, love the 'roo.

If you use a transmission jack to move the trans out from under the car you have to get the car very high.

The engine on my auto sube had to be supported, from the top is best.

I have factory plugs in mine, been in there far over 100k, no problems.

I have been happy with axles from NAPA. I might just have been lucky.

The best motorcycle chain lube used to have whale oil too!

Assuming auto, in general you can use a 2001-2003 (in addition to '04) with perhaps changing a solenoid and valve in the tail section. When I did a swap of an '04 LL bean 4EAT into an '03 LL bean, the interchange they used wrongly stated an '04 would swap right in to an '03. Hollander actually updated their interchange manual based on my info!

I changed the whole mechanism on our '05 forester, price differential was not great between new motor and whole mechanism. I will need to do the pass window on that car soon, I might try just the motor since I happened into one.

My H6 has never overheated but has been pushing gas into the coolant since may. Sometimes the symptoms are hidden. A slow gas leak will not blow hoses as the system can't exceed the cap pressure. A fast leak can build pressure faster than the cap can release it. If a hose blows at or below cap pressure, it was a worn-out hose.

The pan pushed up just a little can do it with no other damage- it restricts flow into the intake.

That is a lot quieter than mine was, not bad to live with at all. Of course I'm the guy that drove on a bad wheel bearing so long I had to drive with ear plugs...

My front diff noise did not come up through the shifter, was quite loud with the door open though!