CNY_Dave

The lower hose will be cold until the thermostat opens, then it gets hot- so could be t-stat. Heater core connected and not blocked or blocked off? If coolant can not flow through these lines the t-stat might never open. Try getting the front end high and burping it. Radiator fans come on?

98, will the manual TCU code reading method work? BTW, it could be a broken wire to/in the trans, or a fried driver on the TCU.

I had one axle from NAPA that was misaligned both at "0" and "180" degrees. Just by a little... Thought I was nuts until I went back and swapped it and the second one aligned just fine.

Try putting in the FWD fuse- if the awd goes to 'full lockup' mode someone put a 2004 trans in there.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113278-how-to-read-transmission-codes/

Even in '06 pressed in, man, subaru likes to make 'em all different...

I'd look at the front diff fluid- that's the real weak point of the 4eat, front diff. If it's nasty, might be a risk.

http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

Always good to have a pdf of it to steer folks to- easier to print than a thread!

Leaky radiator cap that was fixed by removing and re-installing? Are there signs of dried coolant anywhere? 4 or 6 cyl?

Dang sou'ners stealing all our snow, quit it!!!

Maybe someone can cast some silicone and start a cottage 'oil filter cover' business!

In this video it looks like a depression- until at 5 minutes it looks like a hole because it's got black oil in it.

Drains off all the oil that comes out of the filter, I think. No idea where it drains *to* though. Probably just to the ground.

I sweated blood drilling a bolt for my trans extension housing in the car- out is much better!

Another one of those where we never get to see the season finale? Was it the timing cover? Was it the block? Will Stimpy be able to resist pressing the shiny red candy-like button?

Or order short drill bits from mcmaster-carr that show up the next day- love that outfit!

Rotors rarely warp- you can look at them to see if pad material has been deposited on them, making a 'stickier' spot, this is fairly common.

Top hose at the block. Removed probably only once years ago when the dealer did the head gaskets under warranty (external oil leak, that is of course back).

Yeah, this wasn't rusty, it just cracked in half.

Could be a snapped timing belt if that hole is indeed in the front.

Went to check the oil on our forester, found coolant on the block. Factory spring-sheet-metal clamp had broken in 2 directly opposite the tabs, it really wasn't very rusty so can't blame that. Anyone ever see anything like that?

Much better off swapping the transfer solenoid, valve, and valve plate from your old trans than trying to deal with it electronically. The signal is a lot different than just the inverted version of the older signal- the electronic inversion box kinda worked, enough to get me through the winter, but didn't really work well.

You could reach into the trans where the pan goes and pull the wire off the plug that goes to the solenoid and feed it +12V and see if it clicks. The plates will typically stick rather than slide when there's trouble so it's probably not plate material/backer, esp if not magnetic. I would bet on a grooved clutch drum, or maybe normal wear. FWD fuse is a good test, when you get it rolling again.

Depends on what you mean by 'shavings'- tiny silver glistening flecks, or metal pieces? Not sure if folks have seen silver in the trans fluid from the transfer clutch plates, I could see a grooved clutch basket leaving some. How sure are you the vibration is torque bind- does it disappear when you put in the FWD fuse? If it is the transfer clutch/basket and the rest of the trans works fine I'd say just pull the tail section and just fix what's broke.