CNY_Dave

96 the solenoid stays with the removed housing (I think), so be ready to unplug the wire to it while supporting the case.

If the shop does a good job balancing it and it's stiff and straight, yeah, probably a non-issue. Subaru maybe could do it but maybe smoothness or clunking when the AWD engages makles them keep the center bearing.

Below 30mph or so it will look at the front speed vs back to help make torque transfer decisions. In 1 it does apply a little more torque to the rear by default. What happens when you gas it a bit before removing your foot from the brake? What happens if you go to '1' then back to 'D' then take off? I could see sticky plates or a grooved clutch basket causing a short delay that maybe going into '1' 'fixes' (plates do what they should before power applied) If it's all working properly locking the clutches doesn't really buy anything, with the added problem that going down slick hills the rear will slide out as front braking force gets transferred to the rear wheels. External filter- you definitely want to use the subaru.

You could get a bunch of vibration, and it could cause premature wear on the trans output shaft bearings/bushings if there is vibration.

I'm not 100% the diagnostic connector for fans, relays etc is always green, but it is always under the drivers side dash- where are these wires?

55k->255K so far on mine, needed a crank 'pulley' and the usual serp belt bearings. Had some steel coolant lines and the oil pan rust out due to salt, too.

Plowbaru! http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/11887-snow-plow-subaru.html

Bad pinion (auto or manual) may sound like this:

I'd say chains on all 4, only the front if you really onlky want to do 2, and any damage would only be from the chains actually hitting body panels. If it's slick enough for chains, my guess is only having 2 on can not generate enough torque against the other 2 to damage the AWD, an auto probably more resistant to damage in that exact circumstance..

I have done this in a few situations, if you wield a dremel carefully and get a very sharp square edge it works quite well.

A quick check can make loose ball joints look like loose wheel bearings...

car-part was the site, I don't see diff ratios there now?

Gen2 auto I should have specified, 2001-2004 (2000 also?). What's the name of that site with every subaru spec? I got that info from there...

Doesn't really need to be H6 specific, I *think*, as long as you use a legacy (not outback) trans. legacies use 4.11, outback 4cyls 4.44, H6's 4.11 01-03 all swap across each other (VDC for VDC, non-VDC for non-VDC) as far as I know, they did according to the interchange manuals when I swapped mine.

I've thought about it, just too lazy. I did bother to alter the wiper switch so they don't automatically start to wipe when hitting the squirter though- that's a windshield saver! And it saves the view when the fluid is out of frozen, sometimnes doing nothing is better than just smearing what's there.

On my '03 OBW I wish the low-beams *didn't* stay on with the high beams, the near wash of light wipes out the dim light from distant objects.

For 370 hell yeah... great deal. Make sure he knows to slide the TC back!

Maybe he got so many calls he realized he could sell them!

I'd nail the timbers together...

Just watch the gear ratios, auto legacy's have 4.11, outbacks 4.44's, 04 donor trans needs a few swapped parts in the tail section.

There must be one here or on subaruoutback.org. It's not too difficult, lots of stuff to disconnect, engine needs to be supported, trans needs the car pretty high to fit out from under (really high if you use a trans jack!), don't lift by the trans pan, make sure converter slides back from the engine, make sure the converter STAYS all the way back, for a donor trans make sure converter is all the way back or is seated, with engine and trans mated converter should not be touching the flexplate.

Not sure if it's in the fuse/relay housing under the hood (left side when seated in car) or elsewhere.

When something is wrong enough to cause the flashing, the FWD fuse no longer does anything, sometimes at least. The TCU can tell if a solenoid is shorted or open or a speed sensor is sending the wrong signal, it can't detect mechanical issues, so codes are the place to start.

up to 2003 it's a straight swap, for 2004 you need to swap some components inside the extension housing

You can use an '04 but need to swap out a few components inside the tail housing.