CNY_Dave

Given how my '03 TCU learns bad habits, I would say 1st disconnect the battery and make it forget. That does wonders for the H6 4EAT 4-3 downshift REV-BANG

Did the red LED on yours turn on but the car not lock/unlock? Mine lights up even when not working (when I push either button).

Recently had the fob battery get weak, or at least the fretting corrosion on the bat finally did it in (worked if you moved the bat a bit). Anyway, after replacing the battery the fob works but- works fine to lock often will not unlock until I hit the lock button 3-5 times, get the lock chirp, then unlock works. Thoughts?

The shaft it is on can move in and out a little, I think. A lot if something is borked in there. Attaching it somehow with the tail section off then putting on the tail would be pure evil...

Could this be one of those weird H6 weird alternator things?

My '03 has metric fittings with I think at least some bubble flares, not sure... 3/16 line works fine but you have to swap over the old ends and reflare or find metric line when attaching to an existing female connection.

I'll add my tale of H6's not liking to be run for 20 seconds then parked then started the next day... Had to move my car to get the wife's forester in the garage yesterday, was only about 30 degrees. Moved it 30 feet, ran it 20 seconds or so, was interested to see what the next day's start would be like. Contemplated taking around the block just in case. Should have! Well, the car had so little compression the next day I was not even sure it was turning over! Holy crap! It was not flooded as far as I can tell, just seemingly had zilch for compression. But for opening the car door I would have sworn the starter was spinning but the engine not turning over. Took quite a bit of cranking before it even seemed like it was going to kick. Cranking with it floored did bupkis. Started and ran normally after many attempts. Oh, and add me to the P0420 club, too, got the code a few times before this fun...

As an aside- The spark will jump wherever the gap is 'electrically' shortest. Electric fields/charges are greater at sharp corners. Of course in that case the corner was the shortest distance...

My opinion- the mod will help a higher-compression engine, but if in general it gave mnore power and better mileage cars would come with plugs shaped like that. Any car company would love to bolt in a mileage improver.

Are you sure the trans code is for duty c failure? The trans can only detect if the current is too high (shorted) or too low (open). Either case, the AWD would be locked on. Engine idling TCU connected has a very small amount of front-rear 'lockup'. TCU disconnected it should be max lockup. TCU disconnected, all 4 wheels in the air, both rears spun (or one spun and one held still) yes, one front should spin.

Stone the unbeliever!

Fast leak is safer than a slow leak. When pressure on the clutches falls they can slip and burn, when pressure fails altogether there isn't enough friction for them to hurt themselves.

The magic is often in supporting the TC weight right at the button on the front, then spinning it.

tHE CONVERTER WHEN SEATED (oops) should look like it is ready to scrape the back of the bellhousing. If you put the engine and trans together the converter must NOT be touching the flexplate when the bell housing and engine are fully mated. If you mate the engine and trans and the converter is touching the flexplate and you pull them together with the bolts... bye bye pump!

I would bew very surprised if the multi-plate clutch AWD unit was clicking... does the AWD seem to work? Putting in the FWD fuse puts it in front-wheel drive mode and is handy for diagnostics.

'04 has the filter in the tank.

Clicking = a differential? Not unless it is a heluva click. Does he mean front diff or the part that couples power to the rear wheels? Auto or manual?

Dealer is a stinking liar- but that's the lie subaru tells them to say. No car is designed to burn a quart per thousand or 2 thousand or 3 thousand...

The duty c on the trans with the tailsection removed? It bolts to a metal plate with no gaskets between it and the plate or between the plate and the trans. The duty c itself has a rubber o-ring type seal, 2 bolts, pull the solenoid, there's the o-ring on the solenoid. But, mind you, when it is working properly, and venting some pressure to give other than 50/50 lockup (which never actually happens) the fluid dump path is actually through the solenoid, so I would expect it to always be spraying. Pull it and check the o-ring... you can also disconnect the wire (if it's not an '04) and it should hold pressure.

Couold the pan have a pinhole or tiny crack near the plug? I noticed on mine the threads are made from a piece spotwelded to the pan.

Solenoid C electrical failure (open or shorted) is one of the few things the TCU can actually figure out. Could be a busted wire.

I don't think you could hurt anything toggling the switch unless you were creating a voltage spike and cooked the TCU.

If a CO alarm is going off, I'm going to assume that must be an exhaust leak. Check the entiore exhaust carefully.

I had an axle from Napa where the pin holes would not line up, rotationally. One way was obviously a no-go, the other way rotating the axle 180 was closer but the hole was still occluded. I returned the axle, next one fit no sweat. To clarify, old pujn, new pin fit into the stub fine and into the joint fine, the splines/holes just had a rotational tolerance stackup or such...

You can just disconnect the entire connector (the one with the wires that go down the side of the trans with the trans dipstick) and it will default to 3rd gear and full AWD.