CNY_Dave

Ohhh, not sounding good.

If I knew your neighbor had a lift I would NEVER have helped! :P :P :P :P

As a note for posterity, if it is the ball joint applying the brakes can make noise go away because the joint sees significant side (front/rear) loads during braking, both from absorbing the torque (strut helps) and from slowing the car (the braking force of the front wheels to slow the car goes through the ball joints and struts).

Here's the seal on my '03 valve (same spot on '04, but where the solenoid goes in is machined differently on the '04) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=7520 Other pics in: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136710-successful-inversion-of-transfer-solenoid-signal/ : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136898-need-pic-of-4eat-2004-transfer-valve/

There is supposed to be a nice thick rubber washer where the valve connects to the tail housing- did the washer stick to the tailhousing or is it missing?

What's the voltage at the battery with the lights etc on? The H6s get very funky when the alternator starts to go.

VDC has an MPT that the computer never 'slips' it is always full on or full off, and it is only locked during extreme wheelslip. The fuse has no effect.

Trans wasn't out of an '04, was it?

BTW when you get it sorted out at least you have a hatfull of spare parts to sell.

Yes, if they put in the wrong solenoid and valve I would expect it to lock up with the FWD fuse in- new style, fuse in = 0V on the line, and 0v with the old valve and solenoid is max lockup. For the years that are different, the plate, valve, and solenoid are all visibly different. Would be interested to see a pic of the old unit if you still have it, and if you happen to have a pic of the new as well. There is a screen filter behind the valve unit, if that is plugged there will be no pressure. There is at least one square-edge O-ring that if damaged or missing, the fluid will not transfer from the housing to the clutch unit. If the pipe in the rear housing is split or loose, also no pressure. Pressure test is the next best step, as mentioned.

VDC = do nothing. VDC has a center diff which can tolerate some mismatch from using the spare.

Sometimes you can buy magic in a bottle!

I would say braze it!

What is the code? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113278-how-to-read-transmission-codes/

Runs normally with it shut except at higher revs. It does seem to strain a bit when stomping on it. No detectable increase in sound with it opened.

Even if not getting hot, loose bolts with current running through them can cause all kinds of weird oxidation effects.

I had my muffler on the bench, I was renewing the short piece of pipe I use to connect the muffler to the pipe from the resonator (ever since the muffler/pipe flanges disintegrated). The muffler was upside down on my tool cart and water started coming out of the bypass valve cover. The cover has been coming off for years and I have been ignoring it, but if water can come out an exhaust leak can't be far behind. I have been fully confident the valve has been stuck shut for years, if not since I bought the car. Recently I put softer springs from the ex pipe to the frame (pulling the exhaust against the converter donut since the bolt flanges disintegrated) to help the donut last longer, and when gunning it the pipe was forced back! A lot of back pressure. I didn't realize when you took the cover off it gives access to the shaft and spring, but you cannot remove the valve. Anyway the metal around where the cover bolts on was paper thin, so I just chiseled around the metal frame of the valve mechanism and then cut the metal frame with the die grander, and removed the entire valve. I cut a piece of 16ga mild steel to fit the over the opening and brazed it on (amazing how good a treadle shear can cut outside curves). Definitely revs up cleaner, starting at 4k or so. No longer sounds strained above 5k. No longer seems to creep from 5.5 k to redline. BTW I had driven over 20 miles in temps over 50 degrees, and the bypass part of the muffler had a good bit of water in it. Exhaust finds it way in there and the water condenses out, apparently even after everything is well warmed up.

For you, yes. That will work just fine.

No, unless the AWD is not working properly. Going downhill it can be worse, in fact, you hit the brakes and before the fronts have reached their max braking effort, the driveline transfers the braking force to the rear and makes 'em slide.

Auto or manual? If auto, VDC or non-VDC? (we can tell with a pic of the rear case) Has a spot for a spin-on transmission filter, or no? Biggest question is going to be the differential gear ratio, not sure how to check. What makes it not the right one?

There are threads on it, but you use a stout double-throw switch to 'cut' the solenoid wire and send the signal from the TCU through a resistor to keep the TCU from throwing a code and lighting the ATF Temp light.

Just for fun try putting in some trans-x. 95% probability it won't help, but it does work on one other actual subaru trans issue.

Flat smooth parking lot. Chalk where each tire meets the ground. Drive straight so one tire's mark kisses the ground 10 times. within 1/4 inch circumference = furthest 'forwards' mark closer than 2.5 inches from (measuring along the surface of the tire) where the furthest 'rearwards' mark is.

Torquing each one all the way, going around just once, I think would guarantee the lugs would have different clamping force/stretch. I would put that in the bad, bad, bad folder!

The lockup is good for 500 rpm on mine, at least. If that trans has a higher stall speed converter it could be a good bit more. Mine will lock up in D and 3 and I think 2.