CNY_Dave

There was a time period where subaru spec'd the wrong lug nut torque, wonder if they missed the update ? I do not believe that aluminum wheels need to be retorqued, IF the hub is clean, both rotor surfaces are clean, the wheel is clean, and the nuts are properly torqued. I might amend that philosophy if a credible loosening mechanism can be described, but torque mine with an electric impact wrench, I go a certain amount of turning after snug, and my nasty LL bean alloys have always stayed tight. I think I recall reading here or elsewhere the phenomena GG mentions about the bad rotor, man, when you can't even trust a rotor...

They suck at torquing lug nuts, that's all there is to it. If they are left too loose, you can actually have all 5 shear at once and have the wheel sail right off. When they are not tight enough, they flex every time the wheel rotates.

I've never seen atf with no dye, though. Maybe someone had a drum of industrial hydraulic fluid that met spec. There are fluids out there that can be used as motor oil, atf, hydraulic fluid, and a dessert topping!

That could be the much discussed 'delayed forward engagement', give that phrase a search on the usual sube sites.

Blot a little of each onto a piece of white paper. On the stick if it's red it might actually be a little dark.

If the problem is intermittent it could be the wiring between the transmission control unit and where the wires go into the transmission have been damaged, or a connector is not fully plugged in. What was the service they did?

The shim he was talking about I think is what sets the depth. The backlash is important and requires a dial gauge- but if you used the same pumpkin you could just count how many turns the adjusters rotate, perhaps.

My snap ring was bent- I straightened it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=7296 here's a close-up of where the clip snaps into the converter: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=7294

Swapping the pinion shim over would rely on ther cases being machined exactly the same else the pinion depth would be wrong. The lash is set with the adjusters on the outside of the trans where the axles go in. I think. Maybe he got lucky...

I think you will need to spin the donor rear diff to confirm the ratio.

One click up = rumrunner mode!

For the hostorical record, you guys are seeing bad hubs (part with the wheel studs) or bad knuckles (part with the wheel bearing and ball-joint)?

I have drained/filled mine a couple times, both times I filled it with the front still up on jack stands, easy-peasy.

Burnt wires in the fuel tank... that's a scary thought! Probably 99.9% of the time a spark in the tank couldn't ignite the fumes, but that 1000th time...

Yes, swap in the solenoid and valve and valve plate under the valve. Connector etc is the same. Probably of more use to someone with an '04- that's a 1-year only trans! I have an '04 valve etc if someone needs to do that someday.

If I still lived in CT (Berlin) I'd be dropping by to gawk! Dave

I haven't found a set I'm really happy with yet, that with having put almost 200,000 on it myself.Of course 3 or 4 months out of the year I'm on snows (which usually ride better than whatever tire I've decided to take for a spin).

2003 Solenoid 2004 Solenoid (has 2 o-rings) 2004 vs 2003 plates ('04 on left) 2004 vs 2003 valves (2004 on left) Thought I had a pic of the '04 valve where the solenoid sits, guess not- the bore has 2 different diameters and there is a small passage (hole) drilled in the side of the bore.

Porcupine probably knows.

You need to test at all points in the throttle range and make sure the voltage (or ohms if checking ohms with connector disconnected) sweeps with no breaks or sudden jumps. You need to check the center 'wiper' pin to one or both end pins.

The solenoid switchover can eb checked by putting in the FWD fuse then checking the voltage on the solenoid circuit/pin at the TCU or elswhere. FWD fuse with +12V to the solenoid = 'old style', 0V to lock-up, +12V to disengage FWD fuse with 0V to the solenoid = 'new style', 12V to lock-up, 0V to disengage

Romraider is another, I think.

Hey, a quick not quite related question- are the pinion bearings ATF lubed or are they in the gear lube? Or (shudder) sealed?

I have some pics, haven't smallified them yet. I think it will be the very first pics of an '04+ valve. I can ID an '04 valve etc by sight now, another singularly useless skill!

All I recall actually doing for ODBI was shorting 2 pins and watching the check-engimne light flash... I know there was a reader of some sort but nowhere near the sophistication of ODBII.