CNY_Dave

Auto or manual?

I know for gen2 outback autos got 4.44, legacy autos got 4.11. H6 outbacks got the 4.11. Does cars101 have gearing info?

My '03 drivers side was tough to remove, and I had about 4 feet of pipe. The other side, a rear, and my wife's forester rear all came off with the electric impact.

The back side has one smaller nipple coming off the 'main pipe', it feeds the throttle body, I think. I would be wary of using flexible copper, something in my memory says it might get brittle.

My concern about just plumbing it with hose was chafing and finding a clear route that didn't go near the exhaust- you'd have to go up the front and over the top.

I pulled the battery and the windshield washer reservoir and was able to get it in/out by applying just a wee bit of upwards force on the engine. There is a bolt on the rear of the head holding the line, I found best access by pulling the drivers side wheel and going in from the side. I think I ended up unbolting the fuel filter clamp. I got a few scrapes on my hands that day.

I have had to replace the steel coolant lines that cross under the front of the engine, and the one that goes under the drivers-side head. Both wouild have leaked if I just looked at 'em funny.

Remove the airbox, just below the throttle body and a little to the drivers side. About 1 inch forwards of the engine-trans parting line. Use a mirror- I have an old motorcycle mirror, a little 1 inch inspection mirror is too small. It is very hard to see from 'above'. I have not yet pulled the intake or AC etc, but given the rust on the coolant lines under the intake, I may need to.

I got lucky- I doused that puppy with kroil, got it to wiggle, then 'spun' it with the impact wrench (lotta bangin' not a lotta spinin'), and it backed itself out. And that was an '05 forester.

A few months ago I sure could have used the transmission- would have saved me from putting an '04 into mine and having to do without AWD until I can get the control stuff sorted out! (shipping would have been silly though) If you were in driving distance no question I would load up on all kinds of bits, but nothing I need that's not avail. new for probably the cost of shipping big metal parts. Heck, I'd take the whole car for whatever the boneyard was going to give you if you were local! If you can hold the crank still and have some tools that'll reach 'em the bolts are pretty easy to get off. On is the challenge.

I just had my beaner trans out in February. The bolts are accessed at the top-rear of the engine, a little port that should be covered by a rubber plug. It took me a while to find it, as the port faces frontwards, that is, under the intake manifold. A good 6-point socket with the lead-in chamfer ground off attached to a flex-head ratchet is useful. A wrench with a pivoting socket-end would be good too. If you are going to pull the intake anyway, pulling the intake first (and attaching it last) will make the job a LOT easier. You can also just see the bolts from below, I actually started my bolts from the bottom using a 1/4 drive socket, extensions, and universal.

I have used the HF kit on a rear bearing on my wife's '05 forester, it worked well. I previously did a front on my outback with a 20T press, I have some skepticism the HF tool would have survived- but who knows.

I don't even know how long my plugs have been in. 80K?

I'd lay money he'd say if the trans-x makes it work, then that's perfectly acceptable. Obviously it doesn't work in all cases, but when it does, there's nothing 'cheap' 'shoddy' or 'improper' about using it, and that's what's causing the pushback you are seeing- you are essentially calling everyone who has had success with it a 'cheap hack' for 'not fixing it right'.

Just make sure the nut threads on far enough to actually 'pinch' everything together tightly. If not, stack washer as needed under the nut. Or maybe even put one the thickness of what you cut away at the point where it was cut.

I disagree as to the classification- if the problem is a seal that has shrunk, and something will un-shrink the seal, and it will last until you should be changing the ATF anyway, I'd say it's fixed. Your argument could be applied to, say, the ATF itself. "Car shifts hard. Changed the ATF and that masked the problem, shifts nice now, but didn't fix it because in 60,000 miles the ATF needs to be changed again". But, if it didn't actually work, then in your case sure, it didn't fix it. I saw a good description of the actual seal that causes the (classic version of the) problem, I thought it was in this thread.

Sure does, doesn't it.

Monthly bump.

I had a rear making so much noise I was wearing ear plugs on the freeway, only had a tiny bit of movement, hard to detect. The race was beat up pretty bad, I can't imagine what it looks like if you can really tell it can wiggle.

Just be aware the usual strategy of 'right turn it gets quiet means right bearing is bad' (and vice versa for left/left) sometimes isn't true... I had a front on my '03 that tried to trick me. Bad left bearing got quieter when it was loaded up in a right turn.

The drum I was referring to is the little drum brake for the parking brake... that is always nasty on mine.

2 bolts and the caliper comes off the pad frame. No need to pull the line/hose off the caliper (unless that's the caliper you are replacing). 2 bolts and the pad frame comes off. Struggle to pull the rotor off, get it a little loose, then give up and de-adjust the parking brake cable and de-adjust the star-wheel adjuster. If it has a lot of miles on it, be amazed at how rusty and cruddy the parking-brake bits inside the little drum are. At 200k mine is ready to have everything inside the little drum replaced, even the plain metal bits are getting sketchy due to rust.

from an ad- 07-91,FWD,2.2,AT,FL, TA102AA2AA-M6 there's a mention of them interchanging here http://elvparts.com/wordpress/subaru-transmission-code-identification-decoding/ google those part numbers with no space between "TA" and the first digit.

So far no joy here, subaruoutback, nasioc, and the forester group.

Commonly done to replace valve seals by threading an air line into the spark plug hole and pressurizing the cylinder, the pressure holds the valves in place, even if they are vertical.. Never saw the adapter for this for sale, but they're out there.