screwbaru2

Mine does.

Is this the same car as in the thread Help my subaru won't start? see my post there.

Check the fuses inside the passenger compartment. There's a ignition fuse that prevents the plugs from firing. I'm not sure if it shut the fuel pump too, but you definetly won't have spark to the plugs.

"So what kind of method you use to try to loosen your bolt?" I know this sounds contrary but it works. I especially use this method on brake bleeder screws, I haven't broken any in years. After a good bath with your penetrating oil of choice, try turning the fastner in the tightening direction. It only needs to move a little, a 1/8 turn works. Once the fastner has moved it'll break free in the opposite direction. My father show me this about years ago and I've used it ever since.

I did it on a 97 OBW. If they're the same the assy. is secured to the column with headless bolts. Subaru recommends using new ones. I reused the old ones. I bought a set of "Grabits" to remove and install the bolts. Worked fine for me. On the original bolts the heads break away when the right torque is reached, I just got'em good and tight. The Grabits work really well by the way. A nice addition to the rollaway.

Make it handle like a boat.

Your ok which is good because there's no cure for what we have. I'm the proud owner of 6 soobs! Two we use, 1 for parts and 3 for???

Like I was told years ago "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is".

I've had the same experience with the dealer ordered single port got double. They told me to keep them and sent the right ones to me. I use all OEM gaskets.

Looks like I'll be keeping my 97 for a lot longer than I thought. I wouldn't accept a ride in that ugly hunk of iron never might buying and driving one! This commdent is for the original picture not the photoshoped one that I can't see because photobucket is blocked here at work.

Have you removed the coolant bleeder screw from the righthand side of the radiator? Try removing that screw and filling the system until coolant comes out the hole. That should do it. May take a couple of tries. Make sure your heat is on high.

I think the intakes are interchangeable on those engines. You could drill and tap the non-egr head, the blank is right in the head with a pilot hole half drilled. Then just swap the intakes. The tube connecting the intake to the head is a _itch!! You'll need lots of PB Blaster and good flare wrenches.

The purge control valve and solenoid are under the intake right rear. The smallest dia. rubber line from the fuel rail goes to one of these. Look for leaks between the hose off the fuel rail and the purge canistor in the front right of the engine compartment, unless the canistor is in the back near the gas tank on your car. This includes the valves and solenoid. There should be a hood sticker showing the vacuam hose routing for the purge control system. If you have a hand held vacaum tool use that to create a vac and find the leak.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It routes unburned gases from the crankcase into the intake manifold to be burned. If it hasn't been changed lately or when you take it out and shake it, it doesn't make noise like something is loose (the valve) then change it. Lose of power, rough running, oil in the airbox are all signs the PCV valve needs changing. These things are too cheap to keep.

If you mean a motor from an auto into a car with a manual than yes. Check for egr compatiblity. I think the 95 auto's had egr and 96 manual's did also. Although that's not hard and fast. I have a 95 manual without a egr and 2 96autos with egrs. Also have a 97 manual with egr. So check the egr.

My 03 OB had those crappy Bridgestones. Now it has Coopers and is MUCH better in the snow.

Don't buy a used 2.5! I did and wound up a year later with blown HG's. Go for the 2.2 you'll be alot happier.

Sometimes the law is a rump roast.

My current ride is sporting a used cat I took off a junk car I bought. If it fits it'll work. Had the same issue before I found the junk car, the used cat worked. Who's going to know and how do they prove it? The cats aren't serialized or unique to the car. It's really only illegal for a shop or dealer to install a used cat on your car, you can do what you want, again who's to know?

My wife's 2003 H6 has a similar problem in addition to also reving too high at startup. Finally threw a CEL over the weekend. TPS low voltage. Haven't got the TPS yet but sounds like it could be your problem. The CEL went off after restarting and hasn't been on since. Might be worth checking for a code. It could already be stored in the ECM.

Anyone ever use these?:http://market.autopartsfair.com/subaru-engine_parts/item-t5999_81740mgx_5.html?campaign=trustmymechanic They look like the OEM's, wondering if anyone has heard of / tried these?

Have you tried shifting thru the gears with the engine idling? Try that before adding anymore fluid. That usually gets the fluid where it belongs so it'll show on the dipstick.

I'm with you on that one! Oh and champion plugs should only ever be used in lawn mowers! Chain saws too!

I'd try the cap also.

You could try putting a quart of K1 in the motor before the next oil change and run the motor as usual to warm up. The K1 will help clean out oil paths and the HLAs. I've done this to every car at every oil change, I've owned since 1966 and have always had good running and good sounding motors. The times I had to change valve cover gaskets I was very impressed by how clean the inside of the engine was. It won't hurt the motor and may fix your problem.