screwbaru2

Isn't that what makes water freeze the molecules get closer together?

The imp is very drivable. She was driving it daily right up until she got the OB. It has 170K and is up for lots of work. T-belt water pump oil pump shocks front and back trans flush add that to the body leak(s?) and the engine rap and it's more $$ than I want to put into. She paid $6K for it 6-7 years ago with 60K on it, and it's been trouble free all that time. It missed a few oil changes down thru the years (my fault) hence the rap. She got her money's worth out of it because we only pay cash for ours cars so we don't have payments and interest$$$. It's probably cost us $1100.0 a year to own and operate. Purchase price plus maintance I do ALL my own work, so it owes her nothing which is why she is wiling to sell cheap. VDC is some kind of drive control, for people who can't handle a car on their own. Apparently it even allows the ABS to apply the brakes individuly, said to reduce one car crashes by 40%. I'm dubious about the worth of it but then I've never been the driver of a car that was in an accident. As long as it drives good and doesn't get stuck in the snow it works for me. We're simple people here.

Ok I'm going to try and post a few pics of the sedan. I havn't had much luck with this. Hey it worked!!! The rear of the 99 imp is in the rear shot of the sedan follow the roof line on the right side of the sedan. I'll clear the snow off and post some pics later.

I'm no scienetist but when the weather gets cold the gas is commpressed so there are more gasoline molucules in a given amount of gasoline that when the weather is warm. The result is you use more gasoilne. My MPG always goes down in the winter a little. Thats why you should always buy gas in the early morning when it's the coldest as you will get more gas for you buck.

I've pulled 1st gen motor/trans together using a crane and a load leverer to tilt the lump as it came out. I read somewhere that it shouldn't / cant be done with the new gen. but if Gary said he did I'd go with that. I'd definetly recommend you have the load leverer tool to do it.

I don't think it has VDC as I didn't see any control for it. I'm located in Rhode Island about 5 miles from the Conn. line. The imp has a loud rap in the motor (2.2) that doesn't go away, the body leaks I think from the windshield then runs down inside the dash on to the rug, the shocks need to be replaced. It does have some brand new parts like a radiator, condenser, headlights, battery. I've got 2 soob projects sitting waiting for spring I don't really need another car taking up room in my driveway. I'd like to get enough for it to pay the sales tax on the "new" car which is $700. We are very motivated to sell. All offers well be considered.

Wife just got herself a 2003 Outback sedan H6. Nice car! It's got the winter package leather seats, seems to need nothing except a driver. She's got a 99imp she need to get rid of. The car is tired but would be a great parts or base car for rally. It can be had cheap. Anyone interested? I'll post pics of both later,right now they're both covered with snow. We got about a foot and half over the last 2 days!

Sounds like your on track there nipper. I had a similar experience the other day when I hit a BIG puddle on the highway. CEL is on but I have'nt checked it yet. Seems to me water on a hot O2 sensor may cause problems.

There is info here on drilling and tapping a non-egr head to make it egr compatible.

Subieguy, Do yourself a big favor and either stay away from the ej-25 or make sure the one you do buy has had the headgaskets changed. IMO you'd be happier with a ej-22. I made the mistake of buying a second ej-25 for my 97 OBW, it lasted 1.5 years than a HG went. I put a ej-22 in my 97 OBW and I love it. I've noticed no loss in power in fact I think it may actually have more pep than before, and the ej-22 had 200K on it when I bought it! There's plenty of info on this site on ej-25 / ej-22 swap.

Flashing pwr light indicates a elec. problem with the trans. Get the codes trans codes read at a dealership.

ETC welcome to the USMB!

Years ago I remember watching my father drain a TC in a OLD car by takeing a small plug out of the TC. There was a time when some TC came with plugs. There's nothing in there except a bunch of vanes. Drilling a hole and tapping would be a great thing to do with the TC out of the tranny and drilled overhead to prevent metal from falling in. I use the return hose in the bucket method while pouring ATF down the fill pipe. Works well.

Sounds like you may have a parasitic drain on the elec. sys. Make sure the battery is at full charge. Connect a mulii meter to the battery. Watch the readings, it shouldn't drop. If it does drop start pulling fuses until it stops dropping. Once you find the drain you'll be able to watch the readings on the MM go up!

I'd bet they are the same. I used 97 lego fronts in a 99 imp front both AT awd no issues. MWE is THE way to go. Got 2 new CV's front axles from MWE for my MT OBW 6k later no problems. You can't go wrong.

I've had good luck with Alumseal. I've got a 96 OBW w/ 90k 2.5 known bad HG was starting to over heat. Put a dose of alumseal in 2 months ago no problem since then. Worked for a year in my 97 OBW w/180K drove that car 100 miles a day. I'd try alumseal and use the time to find a good 2.2 to replace it.

Yes , it probably just needs to pump up. Run it for awhile it should get better. Could also try draining a qt. of oil and replacing it with qt of K-1 run it 10 15 min. Change the oil / filter.

I agree with Suzam and bratman18 that the job was probably never done. I lost count long ago on how often I've seen this happen to people. Some people are so gullible that they accused me of cheating them! That I took out new parts and put in old ones so I could charge them for reinstalling the new parts! One of the many reason I only work on my car and the wifes now. A lot of people just plain suck, and some of them run repair shops.

remove the igniton or fuel pump fuse and crank away!!

Does that year have soild lifters? If yes have they been checked / adjusted?

As if I'm not crazy enough!!:-\ SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO glad to see the site back! Thanks to all!! Give yourself a :clap::clap::clap:

I had RI Driveshaft replace the U-joint and a fine job they did! There's even a grease fitting in the new joint to keep it lubed. So when I was done the car wouldn't start! This car hates me for putting it back in service! The starter died just sitting there. The voltage was 4.4V when cranking the starter with a fully charged battery. One rebuilt starter later and all seems well. Put about 50 miles on it today with no issues. I don't notice any difference with the 2.2. Maybe its because of the 5spd. Still 3350 RPM @ 70 MPH which seems high to me but Subaru says no normal. This car will turn 300K before May another milestone on the way to 1 million.

I hear ya, we've all been there its part of the learning curve. Even the most seemingly difficult things get routine after doing them over and over. Getting as far as you did tells me you can do it you just need to find the way that works for you. The hose on the end of the plug works well in tight places. And you can wind it up so in unwinds in the direction you want it to go. The point is don't give up git-er-done!

Don't give up yet. You know the hazard now so be careful. I've done a ton of 2.5 plug changes. With a short extention and short rachet its not bad. Take out the air cleaner duct on the pass. side and the washer tank on the drivers side. Use your fingers to spin the extention most of the way out. When you put them in use anti-sieze compound and make sure the motor is stone cold. And don't overtighten them they don't need much torque. "Mechanics start what they finish"

I know after replacing all that you'll say WTF to this but I noticed you omitted the pcv from your replacement list. If you haven't changed it you should a clogged valve will cause these symptoms though not a CEL. Also make sure the pcv hoses are clear.