screwbaru2

I'd buy the $30 ceramics put the goop on the back, lube the caliper slides and be happy my mom has good brakes.

:slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: I like it!!!

No problem I'm often misunderstood, just ask my wife:grin: . OB99W go you have any thoughts on my question of applying dielectirc heat disappating grease to the knock sensor mating surface?

Replacment for what your wife? I'm looking forward to 300K on my outback sometime next year.

Does anyone know wether dielectric heat dissapating compound applied to the mating surfaces of a knock sensor would extend, shorten, or have no affect on the longevity of the knock sensor? I used to use it on the old GM ignition modules at every tuneup and it seemed to extend to life of those. I seem to have a rash of knock sensor codes. The 96 imps code came back the 99 imp has one now and my outback has one also. I feel like I'm getting knocked around here.

I know but I also think like you that "Loss of coolant at a cylinder due to HG leak might have lead to localized elevated temperature, resulting in "real" knock that could be detected. However, that still should just have caused the ECU to retard timing, not set P0325. I wonder if heat distorted the piezoelectric element and changed its characteristics enough to cause the code." Which is why I say it wouldn't hurt to check for bubbles w/ a ej25.

So here's what I did to my Outback: Valve job and head gasket 1 head adjusted valve lash both sides valve cover gaskets OME oil seperater plate OME oil pump OME water pump OME T-belt OME cam,crank seals OME plugs / wires OME pcv OME air filter OME gas filter OME thermostat OME oil filter AM clutch kit AM upper / lower rad hoses AM brakes front / rear AM front axle MWE welded flange on upstream cat welded loose exhaust sys. heat shields replaced heat shield covering driveshaft OME = Orignal Manufacturer Equipment AM = After Market MWE = Marshall Wolf Enterprises

That's an interesting senerio. I guess if you have a EJ25 w/ a knock sensor code it won't hurt to look in the overflow tank for bubbles!

I think you're right on the mark OB99W. This has happened to me a few times on a few different cars. Kinda like powering down a pc in the middle of it starting up. If I disconnect a battery I usually leave for a while.

I bought a ej22 w/ 200K for 250.00 Runs great see:EJ22 Head bolts 2??'s 40K, buy no fear!

The engine fired up like it had been running yesterday!!!!!!!!! :banana: It threw a knock sensor code after it warmed up. Darn! I almost changed it when I had the intake off. Its one of 3 sensors I left on /or used from the ej22 I bought. The others are from the ej22 I cooked and are all good. I did route the wiring harness so the knock sensor is accessible so changing it will be easy. Anyone have a shifter boot for a 97 MT 5spd? The one that was on my trans was brittle and broke apart when I touched it. Also noticed a torn front outer CV boot. I'll be calling MWE tomorrow. I've got to swap out the drivers seat with the Lego do the brakes all around get a return spring for the shifter clean up the inside and she'll be ready for another 100+K miles!

I'm with the people who think 11k is too much. You want to know if the head gaskets have been CHANGED. The fact that they maybe good today means nothing for tomorrow! If the car has the original HG's I'd want $2000.00 taken off the price. These are great cars in every other respect, the HG's however can make these cars a great disapointment to the unaware buyer. I bought a 97 that I overheated the same week I bought it. This was after I drove it and did a compression test on it. There is no telling when the HG's may leak only that they will if they are original. I'd feel safe buying 2004 and later they seem to have fixed it by then. Good luck:popcorn:

Somebody who doesn't know what they're talking about is giving you bad advise. Premium gas will prevent your motor from knocking (pinging). The knock sensor does the same thing by changing the ignition timing. When you get a code for it, it means the sensor or it's wiring has a problem. No amount of any gas will change that. It's not a drivability issue but if your engine starts to pinging and the sensor does not work then the engine will continue to knock (ping). I don't understand the head gasket comment made earlier.

Well its a Subaru that's first and foremost. They are reliable, fast, handle very well. In most parts of the country they are fairliy common. Do you work on your own car? I worked on Fords for awhile, personally I'd rather eat worms than work on another Ford. Subarus are very easy to work on. The alt/ac belts take about 20 mins or less to change. Brakes are simple, even the exhaust is mostly rubber hangers very few nuts / bolts 5-10 mins you can have the entire exhaust system out of the car. If she is a responsilbe 21 years old its a great car for her. I have 2 girls myself both grown and on their own. I encourge them to buy Subarus for safety reasons.

Well 1:00pm came and I still needed an oil filter, oil, coolant and a battery so tomrrow is the day if I'm not too tired after working all night. I wanted to do pics of this project but I haven't had much luck posting pics on USMB. Looks good, as in stock, so it gets by any visuals they may do at emissions, I hope.

They'd have to gas up to get to here in RI but here's a bump for luck. Hope you find it unharmed.

NorthWet is right if it didn't bend the valve it didn't hurt the piston. I always TAP the top of the valve with a hammer after installing the keepers just to make sure they're seated. They'll pop out if they're not seated well.

Working on a uneven surface sure makes getting the motor and trans back together more of a challenge. The crane was hard to move forward (up the incline) and also tended to swing to the left when it did move. So after many hours of the lump is in and I'll finish reconnecting everything today. I expect to start it before I go to bed at 1:00PM! :banana:

I'm going to be installing a trans in a 96 impreza soon. I have that beast sittiing on a trans jack table on a 2 ton floor jack. That makes the top of the trans three feet from the ground. That's quite a feat in a driveway! I was thinking of using my crane on the front of the trans and the 2 ton floor jack in regular configuration for the back, After reading this I think I'm on the right track. Thanks!

Here's a update: The engine is together all went well the heads and decking were good not warpage the new bolt tighten right up in the hole that had the broken bolt so no bad thread damage (I hope) everything fit except the parts store gave me the wrong clutch. They had the right one because they had ordered it for me. So the engine is in the compartment and almosted landed, even with the dog bone disconnected and the cross over bolts backed off a few turns the lump won't go back far enough to drop the motor mount studs into the holes in the "frame". I had to stop yesterday as it was 6:00PM I had worked all night and had been at it most of the day getting the motor to the point it was ready to install and trying to line it up. So that's where its at. I'm on my way out now to finsh landing it and start connecting everything.

I'll check my 97 OB when I get home but I doubt it.

Ditto on the last 3 posts, I had 2 did excatly the same thing. It's how these go south. Keep driving it, eventually it'll overheat all the time. Alum. stop leak worked for me for about a year, but they all go given enough time and driving.

+1 finally a voice of reason on hi octane

Get yourself a good heavy hammer, with the nut off the tie rod end stud hit the edge of the knukle where the stud goes thru, they pop right out. I've NEVER used a fork on a tie rod end. The ball joint I take out of the kuknle by removing the pinch bolt. No ripped boots, ever.

I don't know what the tool # is. As far as I know all ej25 have shim adjusters. I've never done it on a soob I have done many Fiats. Hydl. lifters would have no shims and zero clearence, if this is a 97-98 I'm 99.9% sure you have shims. Wish I could be more help. There's people here that have done their own HG on EJ25's chime in!