screwbaru2

Well thank you for your service. A10's are AWESOME machine. If Milk of Magnesia works on them then I just bought my last jar of anti-sieze!

:clap: :clap: Congrats :clap: :clap: enjoy, time goes by fast.

I hate when people confuse me with facts. Does that involve removing the drivshaft too? That thing probably hasn't been off since 1996. I really want to get my Outback going again. This is the kinda thing that gets me off my dead rump roast and doing something! I'm going out to finishing pulling the motor on the Outback and take a peek at that Impreza's trans, maybe,later.

MY 97 Legecy AT does NOT have an external filter . The wifes 99 Impreza AT DOES have one. Check the bell housing the newer trannys have 8 bolt holes mating to the motor. Don't answer this part but, make sure your wife can defend herself and the babe on that trip:Flame: . Happy motoring!

As a matter of fact I just came back from yet another outlaw test drive with the fuse in the FWD holder. It still feels like it's still binding on turns and the thump,thump,thump at the rear tire is still there (failed to mention that before) the guy who had this car before me is a real hacker who knows what he did or didn't do to this poor Imp. I had bought it for the engine but it's such a nice looking car I thought maybe I'd run it instead. I'm definitly having seconds thoughts now. It's getting hot and very muggy now, I'm about ready to quit for today. Thanks again all. I'll update this in the future but right now I'm leaning towards parts car.

I just came back from a short test drive. This car has TB ya can feel even on turns that are not real tight. Also the ABS light came. The more I get into this car the more I think that I have a parts cars here. I can use the engine for my Legecy Outback and the car for parts for Mrs. Screwbaru's Impreza! Must be the Duty-C. Thanks for the tips OB99W.

I kinda like that. Is it AWD?

This is the same car, the way the AT light acting I'm not sure about the TB anymore. It's not registered so I'm a little hesitant about driving it around to test for TB. I'm going the check a few more things before I take a chance driving it.

Update: The sensor angle was wrong thank you Gary. The CEL is now off. No codes are stored. This thread is now about the AT light flashing 16 times on start up. Correct me if I'm wrong but the AT light will flash if there was a problem detected during the last use of the car. So if the car is started, light flashes, car is turned off, then restarted without moving AT light should not flash. Right? This car the light does flash 16 times @ every start up. I'm going out to check the connection for the trans and find the connector for the TCU. Thanks to all who responded you people are great! Keep em coming! FYI: The engine with bubbles in the overflow and running like crap is NOT the same car.

Gary, The CEL was on when I got it. The sensor I replaced had cracks and was old. I did not use OEM to replace. Figured simple sensor didn't think it would matter. I think the replacement was a Bosch, not a fly by night outfit. I'll recheck the angle and the ecu. I've got 560K ohm between the harness plug and ground. The connector is good and the wires I can see look intact. Cleaned the bolt hole and bolt used anti-seize on bolt. Thanks Edit: Gary the engine I mentioned to you in my pm. Bubbles in the overflow runs like crap. No surprise.

Thanks but no checked that just before I came in to check the USMB.

OK here's one that probably has only happened to me but on the off chance there's someone out there with as bad of worse luck than I here goes. The problem is a 1996 Impreza 2.2 auto. The previous owner told me he replaced the engine with another 96 2.2 and that it had a knock sensor code with the CEL on all the time. The CEL and code are verified, the engine replacement is his word. What he failed to mention was the AT temp light flashing @ every start up, 16 times. I replaced the knock sensor and cleared the code with my scanner. On start up the AT lite flashed and the CEL came on. Plugged the scanner back in 0325 is back. Left one part out my scanner can also read tranny fault codes. It has a option for 4-spd trans for these cars. When the tranny code is scanned it comes back as the knock sensor code!?!?! There's something not right here and I know it's not the scanner. I just used it yesterday on my daughters van. As well as my wifes car last week. Any suggestions?:-\

This knock sensor code shows OK to drive on my scanner with is more than the small scanners that go for $200.00. I'd wait until you were ready to replace it, it's not going to hurt your motor. The code means that there is a problem with the system not that the engine is knocking. Happy motoring!

Only if you drive on the edge all the time. EJ22's are super reliable! '

So you don't like them?

I've done the same thing to one of my soobs past also fixed my wife impreza after she rearended a jeep. I used a spot weld cutter on a 3/8 drill to cut the spot welds out and used sheet metal screws to put it back together. Had zero problems each time. The rad support is in several sections so you can just repalce whats bad. It's pretty easy. If I can do it most anyone can.

I like them. I think they are a little more user friendly than most. I've used em since the 70's. They don't have everything but then their $20 25 not a couple of hundred like a factory manual. My .2

Gaskets gone.

I recently needed to replace the O2 sensor in my wife's 99 Imp. CEL code P1130 O2 bank 1 sensor 1 open. I took some pics of what I used and did to replace it. First I was going to drop the Y pipe and ordered a set of gaskets. They sent me the wrong ones and they don't want them back so if anyone needs a set of 2 hole exhaust gasket for their EJ25 pn 44022AA020 PM me yours for the shipping. The sensor is located in the cat directly under the inner CV joint. The air intake ducting is in the way and needed to be removed 3 bolts and a tug it was out. Next I got my O2 sensor socket and 2 box wrenches. I needed more leverage to loosen the sensor. Thats where the second wrench came in as a leverage increase, (the pic would be nice here) I had sprayed it with PB blaster the day before and was optimistic that it would break free. It did with little trouble the worst was over. This was going to be a piece of cake! With the sensor loose the one wrench is all that's needed, of course it came out harder than fingers could turn it all the way. Anti-seize compound is our friend and should be used on anything that doesn't require something eles. This one will come out easier someday! The installation is of couse the reverse of removal I only used the one wrench to tighten the sensor. Everything reinstalled job is almost done. Used my scanner to clear the codes took her out for a ride no CEL job well done. Time 45 mins. Well this job went better than this post I had pics but I can't get them down to 50K. I've got the whole thing with the pics as a file. At 197 MB I think its to big to email. I'll keep working at the pics.

If you really want to spend money look for a Legecy Outback 4 door sedan w/ an H6. Made for new england, beautiful car, fairly rare big bucks.

Thanks Imdew, Thats what I intend to do. Except I'm using a 5 gallon pickle bucket and a gallon bottle of ATF. I'm have a torque bind issue with the car and I'm hoping a good flush will help. I'm going to need to use the car soon so I want to get this done. Thanks again.

There's a ton of info on this site on this subject. Try "EJ25 EJ22 swap" in the search engine I got no less than 5 pages on the subject, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=590534

Thanks Strakes!

I've got a TZ102ZA4BA AT. Does anyone know which AT cooling line is the return? I'm going to flush the tranny and I can't find this one piece of info. Thanks in advance

change your pcv check pcv hoses for blockage.