screwbaru2

You didn't ask me, but that won't stop me! I'd make sure everything eles is good, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, sway bar links, shocks, tires, before adjusting the rack for freeplay. I've replaced a few but never adjusted any. Leads me to think that they wear out before needing adjustment. Of couse that's a small number of racks so it's just a guess on part.

Thanks Yohy, I'm going to try and work on it some Sat. if a get to it I'll take some pics and add to this post. I'm pretty sure I need to unplug the wires from the controller to get it out any further. I had read that link a while ago and remembered the disconnecting of the cable at the box. I have got that far along yet.

That's why I used to use the 1 qt filters on my GM 350's. I'm going ues the H6 filter next oil change.

If size matters to you check this out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81690&highlight=oil+filter+size

Nipper, check out this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48543

Glad he made it right for you. We tend to be hard on people that get paid to do things for us. We are all human and make mistakes. He did right by not giving you the car until he fixed. I was thinking that it might be dangerous to drive or at best hard to drive. I've screwed things up that I don't even tell my wife! Those are however the best remembered lessons.

Personally I do a major tuneup every 2 years just before emissions testing. I drive over 600 miles per week that's over 80,000 miles on the plugs I check my MPG at every fillup it is always 25-26 MPG. Always use OEM parts. My 2 cents.

Mrs McBrat should get a Pulizer for this!

All the knowledge on this site and Davebugs is the only one who knows anything about this? No offense meant Dave.

If you look at the pdf that yoh posted you'll see # 23 adjustment screw. Follow it to its location in the pic. I think it maybe in a tight spot kinda towards the top of the rack where the steering wheel shaft connects.

Dude what car is it? This "sticking a straw into the liquid at the bottom of the cylinder made it smell like coolant" part of your discription is not a good sign as there should be no liquid in the cylnder at anytime. Can you extract some of the liquid to find out what it is? Maybe some kind of small dia. baster to suck the liquid out? Off the cuff it sounds like a HG coolant leaking into the cyl. You could try swaping the #4 injector with another, say swap 4 to 2 and swap the plug with 3. If the problem moves to cyl. 2 then you know its a leaky injector or if cyl 3 showed signs of a fouled plug you know it's a bad plug. But the liquid in the cyl does not sound good.

Sounds good to me dave. I have a tendencey to break plastic parts. I'll wait.

Bump for help

Why nipper whatever do you mean??

The car is a 1996 impreza lx 4 dr w/ air. The heater control is disconnected from the control arm at the dash. Do any of you imp owners know a quick / easy way to reconnect it? I'm working blind as I have no manual for this car. I've got the control panel unscrewed and partially out. I can pull/push the cable, I can't see how it connects to the arm though the Z shape at the end of the cable gives me a hint. I can't even tell if the connector at the arm is broken as I don't know what a good one looks like. Last time a had to do this the cable was held on by a clamp/screw fastner. I can't see anyway to reconnect the cable without bending it. Any advise??

(/QUOTE)Since on clear-coated finishes the color coat usually isn't very thick, sanding (and sometimes even using clear-coat compound) has to be done with finesse. If you're not sure what's left of the finish in the bad areas, try to find a shop with a paint thickness gauge, which should help determine the best course of action. (Even some professional detailers have a gauge.) In my experience this is not nesscary. The clear coat is thicker than the base coat if done correctly. The base is thin requring only one coat, the clear is usually 3 coats though more is allowed. Use 600 grit wet sand the area and shoot it with clear.

Well I guess I'll join the party. Those telling you that the installtion is wrong and the mech. is BS'ing you are right on the mark. You need to get him to find someone who knows what they're doing and reinstall the rack. This time aligning the steering wheel shaft with the union at the rack. I don't remember if any of the soobs I've done have keyed splines but some cars do. That way DUH DEE DUH's have a harder time screwing it up. How the heck did it aline? How's it drive?

yes sad, reminds me of when I had to sell the boat my Dad and I went fishing on for years.

If you had the bleeder screw out and filled until coolant came out the bleeder hole then I'd just check it a couple of times for the next few days and keep an eye on the temp gage. In case you don't know the bleeder screw/plug is on the passenger side of the radiator it's square with a phillps head. Be gentle with it they break.

I can't help you with your electrical problem but IIRC means IF I RECALL/REMEMBER CORRECTLY.

Like Subaru360 said it can be wet sanded and reshot with clear coat. I've done it a few times work fine. Base coat clear coat is wonderful stuff. The base goes on so "dry" you have to try and make it run. The clear will run if your not careful, but after it dries wet sand the spot and reshoot with the clear. It's the anybody can paint their car paint!

My wifes 99 imp gets about 27 - 30 combined. My 97 leg AT get 25-26 combined and the OB 2.5 MT got 25-26 como.

Very nice job poor man. Both the presentation and the solution. Don't give sis her camara back!

What makes you think it's the stop leak? What code is the CEL calling out? Most likely it's not the stop leak. I've used stop leak many times and have never had a issue. I would think you'd be getting other signs of something wrong if the stop leak was involved, running hot, little or no heat. I suppose it's not impossible that some of stop leak stuck to the probe of the coolant sensor and ruined it (long shot). The CEL only warns of issues with the ECU and related componets. A loose gas cap will cause a CEL, a really dirty air filter, even a vacum leak. These things affect ECU controlled systems. The coolant is not controlled by the ECU it is monitored. I don't believe no coolant in the system would set a CEL.

I've always used a pickle fork, same deal 2 to 4 whacks and its undone. Tears the boot but when it's being replaced so what.