screwbaru2

I'd stop dealing with NAPA!!

do a search on IAC / IC / idle air control. Sounds like that maybe your problem

Glad to help out. This has happened to me more times than'd like to admit. You had a 50/50 chance of geting it right, you would have gotten it eventually. :banana:

You are correct about the tranny not sitting stable on that adapter. I have one. I modify it depending on what tranny I'm working on. I drilled holes in it that I threaded where I can bolt down a tranny. Made brakets that I bolt to it and bolt to a tranny. I use differnt mods for different trannys Might try a couple of clinch straps the kind with the ratchet you can get real tight. Wedge the tranny on the adapter so it's stable then strap it tight Dosen't hurt to have a helper to assit and/or get the tranny off of you!

Sounds like your 180 out. The dist is pointing at #! the engine is tdc but its on the exhaust stroke. Turn the motor 360 the rotor should be 180 from #1 remove the dist point the rotor at #! insert dist and fire her up!

I just installed one on my 96 imp 2.2 I coated the mating surface w/ dielectric silcon grease to keep it clean. I was going to use heat dispating grease like I used to use on the old GM ignition mods that use to burn out. But I didn't have any. The old one looked like it rotted out from age. Figured the grease couldn't hurt and may make it last longer. Anyone have any thoughts on wether the grease will help or hurt?

Yeah, like he said. If the oil has been changed regularly for the life of the engine you could try a flush at the next oil change. If your not sure about the oil changes then don't do the flush, sometimes you'll end up worse off then when you started. The flush takes away years of built up sludge that insolates normal engine wear noises. After the flush volia noisey engine! If the motor has had regular oil changes with good detergent oil then you don't get that build up. Even if you had to replace a lifter it's not a big deal. There's enough info and knowledgable helpful people on this site to walk you thru it. Don't worry the 2.2 is as close to bulletproof as you can get.

Subsince77, Ask your friend if he can get R134 dye for finding leaks. It used to be sold in R12 form years ago. You can track down any leaks then bring the car to a A/C service shop where they'll fix the leak, evacuate the system and recharge it. I do almost all of my own work but the A/C I leave to the guys with the equipment. I would advise you do the same. You can save money and protect yourself by knowing what is wrong before you have it serviced. They usually don't try to put the money pump on people who know what's going on. The oil in the refridgrant is there for the compressor, it's why the A/C should be run during the winter for awhile every month, to lube the compressor and keep the O rings lubed and soft.

Around here if you ask for freon, you are asked to show a license to handle R12.

Yes, if it was streached enough to break the seal chances are it's not going to reseal itself. It's probaly just an O ring that needs to be replaced.

One of the lines could have been streached a little too much during the engine work causing the coolant to leak out. When the coolant pressue is low the compressor won't come on. If this is the 97 we're talking here I'm pretty sure you have R134 not freon. The R134 is a lot cheaper. You can get it in parts stores like the old days. Most of the kits have cheap gauges in them to check the pressure. I think the pressures and type of coolant are on the A/C sticker on the radiator support bracket. Follow the directions in the kit you'll be fine.

Congratulations Mike! Beautiful baby girl you have there! If it's your first your life just took a big change and you'll love it. She'll be helping you out in the garage before you now it. We have 2 girls all grown up and on their own. What a ride! Good luck! :banana:

You should make sure the dealership knows its a 2.2. Could think its a 2.5. If it works don't fix it.

Also if that has a dist. a bad condenser will act that way. Had one on a dodge that would stall out at the same place like clock work after leaving the house. Drove me nuts for awhile.

Nice ride great photos good job!!!

The best alignment tool is the input shaft from the sam type of tranny you have. I got mine from a blown tranny at a bone yard.

My 97 OB is the same way. Subaru told me with the MT it is normal. I've thought maybe a different gearing in the rear diff. However when using cruise control @ highway speeds the car can accel. up a hill without having to downshift because that rpm is well within the power band of the motor. I just turn the radio up:banana:

yes, I'm going through the same thing now with my 97 outback. With the $ I spent buying it then the $ I spent on another 2.5 (oh USMB where were you?) plus maintaince, now the 2nd 2.5 is junk I'll have about a $10,000 97 outback with 250K. The insurance is cheap the town taxes are cheap and I have no car payment.

During the blizzard of 78 I had chains on the rear of my 74 toyota carona. By the time I got home most of the cross links were gone and both my rear fenders were destroyed. But I got home:clap: , unlike thousands of other people

1999 2.2 Liter Phase 2 Engine Enhancements (from endwrench article H-4 and H-6 service): All 2.2 liter engine for 1999 are the Phase 2 design. The 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are a SOHC design, with a newly-designed cylinder head. Changes in the 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are as follows: • The engine and transmission are fastened with six bolts and two studs. You'll need a 99 or newer to bolt to the tranny. I've read here that you can get away with just 4 bolts but there is still an issue with the starter.

My leg is making that same sound when turning to the left. I tracked it down to a inner tierod end. Sways a bit on the Hi-way too.

I agree with everyone who said to pull the motor. It is defenitly easier. Don't be intimidated by the hoses and wires. Most of the hoses are formed and only fit one way. Some are different id's so they don't fit in the wrong place. Even the wires get "formed" from the being in one spot for a long time subjected to heat. I've taken a wire harness dropped on the engine and found most of the connections fell near where they belonged. Suggestion: Take pics before you start, take notes and draw sketches. Put bolts,nuts and screws back where they came from so you don't have to guess later where they go.

Welcome you came to the right place Did you check the chiltons in the trans section for how to remove the tranny? Usually they refer to a section/chapter when they say remove whatever. USMB has a manual on the FOURM page you could check. You'll need a good jack, stands and some wooble extentions for your socket set. Take a look at it. It's pretty easy. The Y-pipe will propbly need to be dropped as it can get in the way. All the elect. connections to the tranny have to be undone. The driveshafts have to be removed from both sides and the back(AWD) of the tranny. The bellhousing bolts need to be removed and the crossmember near the back of the tranny needs to be removed. Also seperating the motor from the tranny can be very difficult you just have to keep trying until you get it. There's things I've propbly missed, others here will take up that slack. If you drop the y-pipe make sure you get gaskets to replace the old ones. If the oil seperator plate on the back of the motor is plastic get a metal one to replace it. Hopefully you won't get back there again soon so change what you can.

There she is up on stands waiting for me to administor some TLC. Aint much but she's mine.

overwrought painted on two-tone that has nothing to do with the lines of the car Buckey he's talking about the paint job not the impreza