screwbaru2

If you don't want to deal with it yourself. Usually the bolts are junk and need to be cut off and replaced. Sometimes one or both flanges are rusted to the point of being unuseable. If you don't have some way to cut bolts or a welder to fix the flanges take it to someone who does. You'll be better off.

Your right I'm perplexed and grabbing at some other explaination. Besides doing a compression test never hurt anything and just may show something. My second point the longer an engine with bad vavle seals sits after running at operating temp the more time the hot thin oil has to leak by the seals. After that it sits in the combustion chamber (valves closed) or in the cyl(s) valve(s) opened until the engine is started again. Therefore smoke from bad seals should be worst with a cold engine than hot. I don't understand in this case why it's not happening. Why would the smoke happen with the hot engine but not cold??

You need to find yourself a 2.2L 96 ,97, 98, Those will bolt right into your car. There is a ton of info on this site on the subject. Call the bone yards there's one out there. If the engine turns out to be bad they'll usually replace it unlike that head you bought on ebay. I have a very low opinion of the 2.5L engine I've had 2 in the same car both ended the same way a overheated mess. Every 2.2L I've had has been a jewel, 2.2's rule!

That sounds odd. I'm inclined to think valve seals except you say there's no smoke on cold starts. Normally after sitting for 8 + hours more oil would leak pass bad seals (more time = more oil) and burn off on a cold start. Maybe you have 1 valve that's not seated quite right and doesn't show up until after warm up. Do a cold then hot compression test check if one cyl maybe off too much. There'll be differences between the cold and hot test but they should be fairly uniform say cold you get 150 hot 140 except one cyl is 130. you'd have an issue that is probably valve seating related. Maybe others will have better ideas but that's where I'd start. Good luck

Merry Christmas!! Little late but great!

Thanks porc, It's hard to see how water can get in there but I'm sure it can. I use anti-seize on everything that doesn't require something eles. Works better than grease. Even use it where the wheel contacts the flange on the hub. After I work on it doesn't rust together.Ever.

nipper, I was considering heat at the time but was afraid that the bearings would have been damaged. Like I said at this point the bearings are junk any way so it doesn't matter but you think heat would have been ok to use. I was surprised at the time because this had never happened to me before. Just lucky:rolleyes: I guess. Thanks nipper

I replaced the driveshaft on my wifes 99 impreza 2.2L coupe auto trans no abs. The driveshaft could not be removed from the knukle. Normally I just back off the nut flush with the face of the cv shaft and tap it till it starts to move. Not this one!!!! After much PB and time I took the knukle off the car set it up so I could hit it with a 16 lbs sledge! I was not able to remove the shaft from the kunkle. Had to go to a bone yard and buy a knukle. This has never happened to me before. I've done hundreds of driveshafts and have was always been able to get these out. What gives has anyone else out there had this expereince? Any ideas on getting it out? The bearings I'm sure are shot ( I hit this thing HARD many times) but the knukle looks useable.

hows the hood alignment? Could water be leaking in when it rains? Try parking the car in a different direction / place. Is the rubber seal @ the front of the hood there. Doesn't sound like a coolant issue.

I think the 99 has a different number of bell housing bolts. Search for 2.5 to 2.2 engine swaps on this site. I think you'll find out for sure there.

Keep driving it! Aside from the HG issue the 2.5 will take a beating. I drove mine for 7 months w/ a bad HG 600 miles per week, the last week the themostat was shut, temp needle pegged! Towed the last 10 miles.

Those slevees are the way to go. nice to know they make em for soobies.:cool: worked really well on the gm small blocks I used em on,

Jack under the tranny yes, to my way of thinking always, so as not to put weight on the input shaft when lifting the motor. I haven't found a magic way to seperate the motor/tranny. I have used a small flat bar and VERY CAREFULLY hammered the edge between the cases enabling a big stronger bar to be inserted. You can crack one of the cases this way but somtimes it's the only way, be careful if you go that route.

I've used just emery cloth in the past. Has long as it's not gouged it should be ok. If it that bad you think a dremel tool is required it may be too deep. Without seeing it's tough to tell. Even then its a crap shoot if its close.

I'm guessing some where in the blower motor / heater box.

does the check engine light work? Does it come on with the key on? That might be what he's means when he says "car doesn't come on check engine light after start car" If the bulb is out then you'll never see a check engine light even if the cats fell off!

I'd pull the motor, lot eaiser and straight forward. The bottom drivers side bellhousing bolt is a PITA I use a whobble extention and a couple of long extentions that get the breakerbar to the back of the tranny more room to swing and better leaveage. You'll need a clutch pilot tool to lineup the clutch/pressue plate/splines. Other than that I can't think of any special tools. Might want to consider a new rear main engine seal also.

The carbon in the coolant could indicate an internal coolant due to HG failure, it is not solid evidence of a crack. Check the overflow tank for bubbling when the engine is running. Bubbling would indicate an internally leaking HG and/or a cracked head as there is more exhaust gas (hence the carbon) in the commbustion chamber than in the block. The HG maybe leaking externally as well causing the spots on the driveway. If they insist on replacing the engine I would insist on 2.2L engine as they are not as prone to this problem as the 2.5L for some reason. I have a 97 outback that will have a 2.2L in it soon. After two 2.5L it's time for a change. If the dealership won't install a 2.2 I'm sure there is a shop that will.

The 2.5L that vintage is a anchor.

Replace the themostat with a OEM it's cheaper and eaiser than the timing belt and more likely to be the problem. It'll be worth the drive to get it. Make sure there's no air in the system also. Like it was stated 100K no maintance could be many things even more than one. Going up hill with air in the system could cause flow issues.

Also when the engine starts to get hot turn the A/C on, that will get the A/C (second fan) running and help it cool down. You can leave the heat turned up.

My 97 is sitting in the driveway same thing second time around. I drove it for 6 months after the symptoms started. It would overheat for awhile then return to normal. Used the A/C and heater no problem. About a month ago the thermostat stayed shut, knowing I was going to replace the 2.5 w/ a 2.2 I kept driving it! I drove it to work and back 100 mi. round trip for a week, gauge pegged to MAX before it died. Look for a 2.2 to replace it. Don't waste your money on the 2.5 it is JUNK!!!! If you have a boat use the 2.5 as a mooring anchor! Good luck

Did you check the FWD fuse holder? I'm not sure which soobs have them but the ones I've seen are located in the engine compt. on the pass. side near the firewall. It's used for dyno testing to disengage the rear wheel drive so only the FWD works.

My 86 GL died of cancer. Put almost 1000 miles per week on that car for 2years, the drivetrain was willing but the body just rotted away. Thought soobs were bulletproof until I met the 2.5L!

One thing you could try. I've done this only done this w/ a carb'd motor but I'd do with my soob if I had your problem. Take a can of carb cleaner with the motor hot expose the air horn rev the motor high 2000 2500 > and spary that cleaner into the airhorn until the can is empty. You'll get black smoke lots of it and the worst rotten egg smell you've ever smelt, your neighbors will hate you but your cat will be clear or burned out inside ( no honycomb) don't know which never took one apart to find out either way your problem will be solved.