screwbaru2

The shaft goes in before the TC is installed. Theres nothing in the TC that need ATF right away. I wouldn't put any in, it'll get plenty once the pump starts spinning!

That's good to hear! I'll be ordering 2 today.

Sounds like a fun project! Keep us posted.

Thank you. So much knowledge here!

You could have used my thread, I've got 2 others you can check out. The answer to your question is covered in one of them. You should have 500K to 700K as I understand it. 1.4M would be too much

Porc going on 11 years of running nothing but soobs. This is the 1st year I've gotten a knock sensor code. I guess I'm getting my share all at once!

Well I drove around with some fresh gas for a while last night. Motor sounds and runs great. Cleared the code started the car and the mother%^&* ,son-of-a- @#%&* code came right back. So it's on to subarupartsforyou.com to order 2 knock sensors one for the 97 OB and one for the 99 Imp, that's been throwing this same code for a week now. I must have some kinda enegy field over my house destorying my knock sensors. What's the name of the constllation subaru is in? Does it require periodic sacrfices? What or who should I sacrfice?

Thanks for the info. I use a SnapOn MT2500 scanner so I don't think battery power is a problem as the battety can't be disconnected to use it to clear codes. I've cleared codes many times with this scanner after I fixed the fault and the code(s) didn't come back. You're right about the different sensors. The 2 96's I have are both single pole sensors, 1 is an OB the other a Imp. The 97 OB and 99 Imp are both double pole. I only see 1 wire. What do they mean by single and double pole when only one side of the double connector has a wire?:-\ The sun is going down pretty soon it'll be time for my outlaw ride into town to put fresh gas in that problem car.

Keep the tires straight. Looen the lock nut for the outer tie rods. Remove the outer tie rods from the knukle. Just loosen the nut and rap the edge of the kunukle where the stud goes thru it'll pop loose. Remove the nut and tie rod. Then get the steering wheel straight. Now adjust the tierod ends so they'll go back in the knunkle WITHOUT moving the wheels!! If you try to straighten the sterring wheel out by adjusting the tierods while they're connected you'll loose the alignment! You'll change the toe in toe out. And you won't get it back yourself.

I just got done putting a EJ22 into my 1997 OB that had a EJ25 originally in fact it had 2:mad: . So far the only issue I have is a hard P0325 CEL code. I've been doing alot of reading about konck sensors and I still have a couple of ?'s and what seems to me a conflict of information. If there's anywhere I may get these answered / resolved its here. Here's the sit rep: The OB had on CEL codes stored I checked. The donor car a 1997 lego also had no CEL issues. The OB has been sitting for over a year with a 1/4 tank of gas in it. With brings me to my 1st ?. Can old gas loose enough octane or somehow cause enough knocking to make the knock sensor send so many signals to the ECU that the ECU thinks the knock sensor is bad and sets a code? The Haynes manual states that there should be not continuity between the knock sensor connector and ground. Other things I've read talk about anywhere from 500K ohms > 1MK oms resitance between the knock sensor and ground. This would mean continunty no? Which is right? I have no continuity between the knock sensor and ground. Here's some additional information. The knock senor I have in the car is from the EJ25 that was in the OB. It was good, the car was however overheated. Again not codes were set in the OB. The wiring harness was from the donor car and was good. If anyone can help me I'd be really grateful. I have been:banghead: over and over with this thing. I'm going to need to go for emissions next week after I register it so I need to resolve this.

That's for sure GD! The only thing soobs and VW / audi... have in common is they are not American cars.

I bought a 97 2.2. The guy at the yard asked me several times if my lego was a MT. Well my lego ob is a MT so I said yes each time he asked. Well turns out I got a non-egr engine which lead me to a series of problems that almost made me give up. Don't let these guys talk in code to you, make sure you tell them what you want, and they are clear about what they have. There are surprises waiting out there.

All these and more are why I'd reather eat worms than work on a Ford.

That experiment was cancelled. I think cleaning the mounting surface with emery cloth is helpful, clean contacts are important.

Thanks OB99W, This 'perhaps checking for ignition voltage leakage ' is something that I will def. check on the 2 imps. The OB is a project car that I just finished and got the code after the 1st start up went to open loop. One Imp hasn't been driven and has a new Bosch sensor in it, which may itself be the problem. The wifes Imp has 160K on it and has been driven 150 miles a day 5 days a week + whatever other trips we do for the last 6 weeks. That's most likely worn out from times and miles, however her car is due for a minor tune up. The OB is fixed I hope. I installed a used soob sensor from the 2.5 that was in it originally. This time I taped a piece of emery cloth onto the end of a old fishing pole handle and cleaned the mating surface on the block. Also shined up the sensor surface. Ran the motor up to open loop and no code.

I used vise grips when I did it. Yes just thread it in all the way and tighten it. It is as easy as it looks.

I'll say this, I bought a Bosch knock sensor for my 96 Imp. This car has not been driven. I went to move it and the CEL came on. It's the knock sensor again. You're probably doing the right thing getting OME.

Is this why your all work and no sleep?

That's got to be the must convulooted (sic) torque sequence I've ever seen. I knew when I looked it over I should take it in the house sit down with a cup of jo and read it. But NOOOO I'll follow it as I go along:dead: They only got me for 1 bolt and a 1 HG. If I had talked to the machinist before I ordered the HG I might have used the same one, and I since found a whole set of head bolts that I could have used.

Too bad about the car but great that it was a soob and protected your family! Glad they're ok.

Thanks guys, Apparently this would do the opposite of what I would want which would be to pull heat away from the sensor. Which was why I asked the question on the USMB becuse I knew I'd get an answer. Thanks again.

I cut if off a cat that I wasn't using. I then cut in half from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock ground the ID so it would fit better. Then I welded behind the original flange. Seems to work, I checked for leaks and found none. Time will tell how it holds up. I could cut another one off for you if you'd like. PM me.

Heat is not good for electroincs in general. I had a couple of decades of experience using that stuff regulaly on GM IM's. The heat would slowly bake'em. I used the same 350 motor for most of those 20 years and only changed the IM once. Guys carried these IM's in their gloves boxes they went so often. I never got stuck because of the IM. So lately I have a rash of knock sensor problems on 3 different soobs. Since these sensors sit in a fairly hot place I was speculating if applying this stuff (that Standard calls dielectirc heat disappating grease not me. I just read labels I'm not smart enough to come up with a name like that) would do any good in reducing the affects if any heat may have on the knock sensor. You seem to know something of this goop what do you think? That is if you now understand the point.

Thanks OB99W, I'm on my way out to replace the knock sensor in my 97 OB, I'll use the compound on that. When I do my wifes 99 IMP I wouldn't use it. Then when I do the 96 Imp I'll do it the regular way again. AAHH to be so lucky to be able to experiment lke this. Other people don't have the kind of luck it takes to have 3 cars with the same problem! :-\