screwbaru2

I've never had the same engine when chaging a clutch so this wasn't an issue. Also never had a problem. My OB clutch went to the floor at 1st. After starting and running the engine for awhile the pedal was fine. Make sure you lube the piviot points on the clutch lever.

I'm everyone eles on this. Sitting outside for long periods is probably the single worst thing for any piece of machinary. Use caution

Sounds like there's air in the system. Doubtful you blew the HG's doing what you said you did. If there's a philps screw head looking plug on the passenger side of the radiator remove it. Pour coolant into the rad until it comes out the bleeder hole. You may need to repeat it after the engine is warm or you can bring the motor to operating temp to open the t-stat, with the cap loose. And fill it again until the coolant comes out the bleeder hole.

The 97 legos MT were non-egr. Found that out the hard way. But they are MT not AT. The shifting must have something to do with less engine vac on accel. egr closes the TCU reads that as a signal to downshift. Probably way over simplyfied but something along those lines.

I think the Toyota influenece is going to hurt Subaru.

Will it manually downshift? I think if your going faster than say 30 mph in 2nd it wouldn't downshift. That would put a lot of extra strain on the diffs. possibly causing damage.

Ok I'll calm down. IF THEY DON"T GO THRU WITH THIS TRAVESTY!!

Maybe given enough time you'll come to your senses:lol:

Exactly one the the ugliest cars on the road.

OMG:eek:That thng is fukly!! How could they do that?! Can't this be stopped? You like that ugly squat looking thing? I'll keep my 97 forever!

+++1 on that

My wife recently ran over a curb with her 99 imp. Nothing gets in her way. I used a steel wheel from a 97 lego that I have for parts and it fit just fine. So I would say you can do it.

That's good once the slack is taken up it's getting to that point that the marks on the belt are for. The count can be right but the sprockets could still wind up off once the slack is taken up. Trust but verify.

You said a mouthful there nipper! When I finally figured out what the timing marks on the belts where for it became easier. They put the timing aligment "off" about a tooth and a half so when the tension is applied and the slack in the belt is taken up the timing marks line right up. Get em right 1st time everytime since then.

The 1st thing I would do is look into getting a 2.2 for it. I'm not sure where you'd find a short block for it aside from a dealership. The 2.2's are more trouble free and a good used one would be a lot cheaper and less work than a short block. If everything eles is sound on it and its been well maintained $1500 is a good price.

You make good sense, however I have the $$ to spend now who knows what I'll have later and I won't have to wait for the shop to do it. I'd like to get 1000000.miles on this outback, with enough spare parts on hand I'm sure I can do it!!

How's about an idea of what you want to "upgrade"? Outbacks are basiclly an upgraded legecy. Maybe after Ike you need floation?

All that being said soobs are tough cars. They are the Timex of cars, they take a lickin and keep on tickin! Get a wiff of the gear oils do they smell burned?

There's a clearence dimension for that guide plate thing. I reinstall it when I change belts. I forget if it's 1/6" or 1/8" clearence. I'd install that little thing whata got to lose?

I'd look for a loose or worn electrical connection.

On the new gens its one bolt one elec. connector and 1 or 2 hoses. Really easy to remove and install. You may want to remove some of the air intake ducting and the IAC hose for access.

I don't think 2 miles is going to hurt anything. Talk to the guy. See if he'll agree to a refund or replacment if the trans doesn't work.

You probably already know this but, if you do splice a new connector on,(which I would do in your case) make sure you solder the wires together. Don't use crimp type connectors those are not good for wiring that goes to a ecu, too great of a chance of the wires coming apart. What a interesting thread. You should get some kinda prize or award for this baby!

I found a driveshaft today. :banana: Waiting for the yard to remove it. Forecast is rain for the next 2 days so I don't think I'll see it until next week. It's in a 96 lego 5spd. so it should fit. They want $40.00 dollars removed. Sounds good to me. Also RI driveshaft says they've done soob shafts in the past and can probably replace the bad u-joint in the original shaft for $70.00 which doesn't sound bad either. I'm thinking I'll do that too and have a spare.

With that many miles I'd change the waterpump as a matter of PM. I'd also consider doing the oil pump, it'll be a long time before you'll be in there to change the belt again.