screwbaru2

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Check that metal by pass pipe at the gooseneck; it is in a bad spot and is prone to rusting from the outside in. If it looks bad try to get them to replace it, it looks like one of those small jobs on an engine stand but a nightmare in the car. I was going to take one out of a 2003 sedan I have. After a couple of attempts at removal it seemed to me that if the Y- pipe and steering knuckle weren't in the way it would be a lot easier job! The bolt on the rear hanger is almost invisible. That's a good price!

My 2006 sedan is having problems like this. Any reason not to replace them with regular valve stems and remove the bulb from the instrument cluster?

I did the 2006 outback sedan we have what a PITA! The 2004 outback wagon was much easier, it only took 15 minutes and that was the 1st time I did one. The 2004 was so bad I had to loosen the debris in the compartment with a plastic trim removal tool before I could vacuum it! Gross is an understatement!

After much trouble with after market brands I use only OEM on Subaru's; the cost online is the same or LESS than the after market thermostats. The performance is always consistent.

Another "trick" you may want to try with rusty or stubborn nuts/ bolts is to tighten them just a little just, to get it too move. For some reason I cannot explain rusty fasteners will turn in the tightening direction much easier than the other direction. Once they move they loosen much more readily.

My wife and I have both been driving H6 powered cars for a number of years. They are a much more reliable and powerful engine than the 2.5 in any configuration. A turbo may make a 2.5 more powerful but certainly not more reliable. I just lost an H6 to the failure of the metal bypass pipe it rusted thru resulting in a total loss of coolant in a short time. The bubbles in the expansion tank tell the story. This is a weakness of the H6 and needs to be replaced if it looks questionable. The motor had 215,000. miles and didn't burn a drop of oil. It got a consistent 24 mpg as did all 3 of the H6's we had/have. I replaced it with another H6 powered car with 115,000. That I hope will see 3 times that much. When I first got the car it was giving me 22.5 mpg. I replaced the air filter the mpg stayed at 22.5. Then I cleaned the PCV valve now it's giving me 24.0 mpg. My wife replaced her 2003 H6 sedan; that she ran into a tree, with a 2006 H6 3.0L R in a outback sedan we both love it; and I now have a good replacement H6. We use the mid-grade gasoline it's a dime more per gallon and only falls short by 1octane 89 instead of 90. When I just top of the tank < half a tank I'll use the premium grade hoping it will boost the overall octane of the gas. Changing plugs can be a bear but it's only every 100,000. miles. I take off the motor mount nuts one side at a time and lift the motor on that side one side at a time. This way the motor doesn't move front to back and drops right back in place. I remove and install the plugs from under the car. If you decide on an H6 I don't think you'll be disappointed! Good luck in your quest.

my guess is something is unplugged or not plugged in all the way. It may be something you didn't intend to disconnect but came loose during the injector change. I'd go over everything in the area where you worked and push all the connections together.

My experience is 100% chance of it happening, it's just a matter of when; 60,000. miles, 150,000. 200,00? Spin the wheel take your chances. I put a 2.2 in my 97 it was fine until a hose broke on the freeway and I didn't notice for too long of a time and cooked it.

Don't forget to replace the PCV also. It is mostly overlooked but will affect engine performance if not operating (clogged). I just changed the PCV in my 3.0L 115,000.00 probably the 1st time its been replaced, made quite a difference. I've got a 97 and a 96 that I'm parting out if you need anything. I wanted to add that after cleaning the PCV a couple of days ago, the next fill up showed it got 2 more MPG.

That's the root of my burping question. Could the system be air blocked? Do the 3.0L engines need to be purged of air manually or does it do it on its own? My 97 2.5 had a small plug at the top the radiator for that purpose. I don't see one on this radiator. UPDATE: The coolant level in the overflow tank is unchanged even after the engine is cold. Tells me systems is not sealed This also explains why I smelled coolant for two weeks, it has a small leak. It also explains the one bubble every 3 seconds in the overflow tank with the engine running. It's to few bubbles for a head gasket leak or cracked head; but a loose clamp on that bypass job will do it. So gentlemen I believe you are correct low coolant. I have a gallon of mix I'm going to add at next break. Thanks for the replies.

My 2003 H6 3.0L engine is experiencing a coolant system issue. At idle the heater blows cold air and if left to idle will start to overheat in a few minutes. The coolant overflow tank was at the correct level hot. The engine ran at normal temp and provided normal heat on the 50 mile hour ride to work this AM The engine has 200500.0 miles on it, 130,000.00 miles were put on in the last 3 years and are mostly highway miles. Three weeks ago the steel crossover pipe leaked and the engine overheated. I brought it to a local shop where they bypassed the pipe using hose. The car ran fine and everything seemed normal except I smelled burned coolant for 2 weeks, that I wrote off to the bath the motor took when the pipe leaked. My sense is the water pump is shot, but I hold out one last long shot hope which brings us to my question. Do H6 engines need "burping" after a coolant change and would the lack of burping cause this problem 3 weeks later?

Thanks guys!

Is there anything "special" or different about refilling the coolant system on the 2003 H6? Some of the 4cyl soobs I had, had a threaded plug in the radiator to vent air while refilling. Anything like that on the H6? I need to do my wifes car and I'd like to go into it smart.

I recently had a fuel delivery issue with my 2003 OB 3.0. We were driving when suddenly the engine quit and wouldn't start. I was able to isolate it as fuel delivery by spraying a small amount of starting fluid into the intake duct ahead of the air filter. This allowed the engine to fire and run just long enough to determine that everything was firing. So off to the PC I went to use the most useful diagnostic tool I have: USMB. A search on H6 3.0 fuel delivery produced no less than 6 of the same issues! I checked the citied "cap" and sure enough it was cracked and mostly likely leaking not allowing pressure to build up or the chamber to fill. I ordered a new OME pump installed it today and Voila! My screwbaru is running! Just wanted to add my issue to the others and thank you all at USMB for a fine and useful site!

After I post I found a nice picture. never mind

Sounds like the problem right there. Are there any unconnected wires hanging around the exhaust system? Usually there are 2 O2 sensors #1 is the upstream (nearest the engine) mounted in the 1st cat and #2 down stream mounted in the sec cat. If someone hacked the exhaust system they may have used frakencats.

My wife's OBS H6 2003 is 35/35 year round all conditions. Why? Because on the tires wall is embossed "inflate to 35 psi". Drove 2000 miles on vacation last June 1600 miles with 4 scuba tanks dive gear, luggage and my wife. No problems, with the car anyway.

My wife has an 3.0 2003, with 130,000miles. I use 5w30 and fill the oil filter before installing it. It's a little messy but there's no air in the filter on start up.

That's what crack does to ya.

My 97 OB 2.5 MT has an egr. I had to use a head from a 2.2 out of a AT when I did the swap. Worked fine no CEL.

Gee I thought it added a little humor to the thread.

Havn't done plugs yet. My wifes H6 gets the same 25MPH as my 2.2 and my old 2.5 got. PCV valve was easy also replaced the TPS which also was a peice of cake.

Lets see I've got a 96 OBW needs HG has 60K nice inside and out $400.00 then there's the 95 lego W, needs clutch otherwise in fair shape $150. last there's the 96 Imp w/ tourque bind (didn't know it @ the time) $800.

Looks like it would have been easier with the hood removed. One of the 1st things I do when removing an engine. They are a lot of engine!