ferox

2WD XTs (5 lug studs) have a smaller center bore in the backing plate, but I think it's true that the 4-lug vehicles should all be compatible.

It certainly sounds like a linkage issue, but I am surprised that a mechanic with 30 years experience would be baffled by that. Have you removed the interior plastic trim pieces around the shifter to examine it?

Thnx

I am flying down to San Diego to do a timing belt job on my buddies '96 OB because it's significantly cheaper than taking the car to a mechanic. I ordered the Lisle cam seal puller, but it's back ordered and not expected to delivered until after this weekend. I can use a pick, but I thought I would ask if anyone has made one. I was thinking of modding a butter knife or copper tubing. The copper wouldn't be a risk of scratching the cam shaft, but maybe somebody has a better idea (?)

What vehicle? If it's an ea81 Hatch, then order parts for an '84.

If I were doing this, I would probably find the fuse that controls the lights and install a switch from there (as you mentioned in your original post). It will probably switch off more than the lights you are looking for, but that may or may not be a problem if you're parked and camping. It's also easily reversible/removable. You could also just pull the fuse(s), which is a boring solution, but no mods required.

HoboBob, have you been to Burning Man under that moniker?

Backfiring through the carb is usually caused by improper timing. Timing is of course the most basic setting of the engine, and is something that must be checked, at the very least, for any kind of carb tune. Many timing issues get blamed on the carb and it sends people that don't have much carb experience down a rabbit-hole because they think the problem is their lack of carb rebuilding and tuning knowledge. Many a carbed Subaru has been towed to the junkyard because of this. Your EA82 may need a timing belt kit or distributor more than it needs a new carb. Also, carbed Justys share the same carb base and phenolic spacer as the EA82. U.S. Justys were carbed from 87-89, and 90-91 were mixed between carb and FI.

I can't tell for sure, but it looks like a vacuum switch that Subaru uses for idle-up control. Is there another vacuum nipple on the side not shown in the picture?. If so, you probably just need another vacuum switch. If it is a simple vacuum switch, there are many makes and models that you can swap in.

Looks like the idle-up solenoid. A vacuum solenoid from several different makes will also work. It's just a simple electronic vacuum switch on/off-open/closed or versa vice. '89 Justy's were also carbed, so the part you were looking at may work just fine. I may have one in my Justy parts if you don't find something to your liking, but I will have to verify.

Fel-pro Perma Torques are popular and can be had at Rockauto.

Badassedness, not sure I am ever going to lift mine, but the rear wheel well sure doesn't give much room to trim fenders. Nice work, that's some Justy respect right there.

I sprayed my trailer frame with a different brand 7 years ago. I never painted over it because I still had more welding to do, and I haven't gotten back to it since. It has been stored outside the whole time in western Oregon, so it's been rained on a little bit. I noticed that rust is just now starting to show on the edges of the metal, which I thought was pretty impressive.

Do you have ~11-12v to the choke? Also, what kind of throttle return spring are you running?

The electric choke is heated electrically and is unaffected by coolant temp. You haven't mentioned timing. You cannot tune a carb or engine, for that matter, without proper timing. It's the most basic and important setting on the engine and dramatically effects how the carb works. Once you verify/set the timing, then you can tune the carb, which may then affect timing again...adjust, repeat. Tuning a newly installed carb is an iterative process. I may be persuaded to swing by this weekend with my timing gun, but I won't have time before then.