ferox

So I get my new GM 100 amper into my '81 Hatch, all the wiring done super nice, new #6 power wire from alt to battery, ext. voltage regulator removed, dash light bulb and circuit checked, 12 gauge field sensor wire from the alt to the junction, everything triple-checked, works great...so I put in the fully charged battery in, turn the key and ...nothing. No power to the ignition switch. I checked it with my meter...no power. I checked all the fuses...good. I checked my wiring diagram...AHA! It shows the ignition switch power wire (large white one) directly connected to the main power wire from the alt to the battery (clearly and unambiguously). I haven't seen this connection in any of the other write-ups, and I haven't seen this connection under the hood yet. I am about to go begin hunting it down starting at the battery/junction area, but I thought I would put this out there in case someone knows the exact location of this connection. I also entertained the idea that the ig. power is relayed off the original field sensor wire, but the wiring diagram does not show anything like that. Any thoughts?

I'm not sure how link a thread to a post yet, but to get to the discussion I mentioned in the previous post you do an advanced search for: alternator+wiring+question Titles only Sort by: Relevancy It's the first thread that comes up.

I took the pulley off the stock core alt I traded in just in case. The 100 amp GM alt. I got had a v-belt pulley. I ended up needing to add a spacer to get the pulley to line up with the crank pulley, so I tried the fitment of the old stock pulley and it was exactly the same.

Thanks GD. I'll make sure the sensor wire is at least as large as the pigtail at the stator plug. Thanks for the indicator lamp explaination too. I actually did a lot of reading on this before touching anything. There is a particularily helpful discussion you and RavenTK had with a certain Trikerbob I think, that had good explanations and good links. I read all of that, but it's great to hear it again, really. (ANYONE READING THIS THAT IS THINKING ABOUT THE SWAP WITHOUT FULL UNDERSTANDING OF THE SYSTEM SHOULD READ THE AFOREMENTIONED DISCUSSION...I will try to post the link in here later, I'm still learning how to use this site) I feel confident that I will not burn up my car with this upgrade now. Thanks again GD, helpful as always.

Thanks for the input. That gives me better info to talk to the shop with. I am going to get a second engine from the yard at some point so I can rebuild and swap as needed. It sounds like knurling could be a good option if the guides are only slightly worn. Luckily the head is actually accessible on the Justy without pulling the engine, so I can pull it pretty easily and swap if the thing starts smoking. Thanks again.

Thanks for the sensor wire tip. I was following the write-up by RenaissanceMan on the ext. vr removal and int. vr alt install, but that didn't include the j-box mod and a 100 amp alt. I was concerned about the fuel pump being affected, but he says it works after the VR extraction. So if I understand correctly the little white wire from the old ext. VR can be disconnected. I am just going to connect new the sensor wire (#12?) and the other white wire (currently in the 3rd j-box slot) to the original position spliced on the power wire before the j-box and it will be analogous to the original connection with a proper sensor connection and protected f. links instead of the old danglers. I am happy to say that I got the ridiculously large unit to fit where the stock alt. used to sit without fitment issues with the air cleaner. Looks good, we'll see how it works. Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

Alright, so thanks for your response and let me make sure I understand you in line item fashion. I'm just running stock electrical draw right now, but that will change in the future, and I figured if I hooked it up wrong I could end up causing an unforeseen draw that could be dangerous. The Nissan Alt. as it turns out would have probably been an easier install, but I was going by the GM alt. write-up which was easier than mine turned out to be. That, however, couldn't be accurately determined until I had ground down the ears and at that point I was committed. So we'll see how it goes. The fusible link box install was really just to clean things up and make sure I had a good junction. The fusible links dangling from the battery has always kind of bothered me. They could be augmented to not just hang there, but then why not just put them in a stock j-box. I will definitely get some EA82 boxes for future additions. Eventually I am going to do a bunch of relay by-passes and have accessories. The wiring diagram in the Haynes shows red fusible links. I don't have the FSM yet, but it sounds like Qman is going to help me out with that. My girlfriend's 84 wag has red, green, green. I wasn't sure if the white wire from the ext volt. reg. was the remote voltage sensor connection. It's a yellow wire entering the voltage regulator and a white one leaving it. If I didn't reconnect the three circuits from the volt. reg. wouldn't the open circuits cause some problems? Doesn't the remote voltage sensor connection go through the voltage regulator? Are you saying I should connect straight from the stator plug to the j-box? I am not trying to get fancy here, but I think my alt. and voltage regulator were on their way out, so it seemed like a good time to switch to a more powerful internally regulated set-up. I'm still not sure if you are saying that this set-up is dangerous, reckless, go, no-go. I've actually already installed everything, I just have to go get a different sized v-belt. My concerns are safety first and the integrity of the car. I really needed to do something about the charging system. I think I compromised my alt while welding a little exhaust hole (yes I used the ground clamp), I disconnected everything from the alt but didn't remove it from the car. Lesson learned, it has been weak and getting worse since then.

Today is a special day. I am doing the 100 amp GM alt swap on my '81 Hatch (which is requiring more fab than anticipated but that's another story). I am replacing all the wiring between alt and battery, removing the external voltage regulator and in-line fusible links, and installing a (post-'81) Fusible Link Box at the junction. It is this connection that I want confirmation on. It looks pretty straightforward. Pictured is the external voltage regulator and attendant schwag next to the J-box that is to be installed. Here's my plan: The black wire with the white stripe on the old set-up will go in the first position on the f. link box. The large white power wire from the alt. will be up-sized to 6 gauge and go in the middle position in the f. link box. At the bottom of the picture (on the old set-up) you can see three wires factory crimped and soldered to the large white power wire...two small white wires (one coming from the voltage regulator) and a blue one. I am planning on soldering those three wires to a piece of 8 gauge and installing it in the third position in the j-box. WILL THAT WORK? IS IT BAD? Thoughts or condemnations? Also, I am using 6 gauge wire between the j-box and battery. Seems like it will work, but since it's electrical and I am pumpin' more juice I would like a second (or many more) opinion(s). Sorry about the picture size, I cropped it and resized it and it still came out huge.

Thanks naru, good information. I tested it this morning and it's nice and steady. I'll test again after a drive.

I am just getting started on a rebuild of my '88 Justy. My internet research shows two strongly opinionated schools of thought on knurling valve guides. So I am looking for some input on that subject. Knurling vs. Reaming & Pressing new guides. I am not into half measures, so even though I am extremely poor right now, if knurling is cheaper but substantially inferior, then I would rather wait and do it right when I have saved up more $. If knurling is inferior, but not substantially so, then I might go that route and rebuild another head later with new guides. I searched for this subject and didn't find much, so I apologize if I missed a big thread on this.

I bought a new stock Hitachi ig. coil yesterday (Duralast brand). Started and idled fine, but I haven't driven with it. I tested it at the parts store 1.5 primary, 9.0k secondary. The primary was a little high, but they only had one in stock so I grabbed it. My car has been driving fine for the most part except the idle speed dropping low intermitently since I replaced the ND disty with the Hitachi. I replaced the wires connecting the pu coil to the ig. coil (reusing the original connectors) because I discovered several cracks in the insulation. No change. I thought I had it solved with the idle speed adjustments, but it's still doing it. I think it's my alternator actually. I've been planning the alt swap for a while among other things, but I think it moved to the top of the priority list. I would still like to hear what you find on your Hitachi. Thanks again.

So if I understand you correctly I need the pick-up coil connected to the ignition coil to test. I went out and pulled the female spade connectors in the disty up just enough so they were still connected and I could get my meter probes to touch the male spades. Five separate reading came back at 260 ohms, which still isn't spec if I'm doing it right and Haynes is right, but at least it's the right order of magnitude. I'll leave it at that for now, unless you have other suggestions. Thanks for the help GD.

If anyone is planning on doing the 100 amp alternator swap I have cross-referenced some vehicles they came in: 1980 Chevy K5 Blazer or Truck w/ a V8 1980 GMC Truck or Suburban w/ a V8. There were a couple V8 sizes but they both take the #7157 alt. They also came with a 63 amp part #7127, so make sure you get the 7157. When I called my local parts store with the part number they said they didn't have it, couldn't get it. I called back with the year/make/vehicle and they had three in stock.

That's the lowest I could go without overranging. I should have included that in the original post. I connected the positive lead to the spade and grounded the negative to the distrubutor housing and got 19.6 at the 20k setting, which is still high. Thanks for the help so far.

The meter is set on the 2M ohm setting. The clips are connected to the spades in the disty. Am I testing this wrong? Haynes says 600 to 850 ohms. My car runs pretty decent, but with this kind of resistance it seems like it wouldn't work, so I suspect I am doing this wrong.

Well that makes sense to me too. Good to know. Sorry for the misinformation, thought I had something, guess I didn't. I've always done it by the book, but I don't always carry my timing light so I'll keep that in mind. You still might try re-installing the disty in case you're a gear tooth off. Good luck. I'll shut-up now

Is there a preferred type of lube for the disty shaft (i.e. silicon, lithium, etc...)?

I was just at Foster U-Pull-it and there is a Peugeot 505 that had (5) 14" steel pugs. I bought (1), there are four left. I took the lugs too, sorry I need them. $6.99 for the wheel, $7.99 for the tire. If you bring back the tire within 30 days of purchase w/ receipt they refund the tire price. So someone could get those 4 for < $28.00 net (screamin' deal!!!). I just bought 4 nice ones from mellow65 for $125 which I thought was a fair price. I wasn't feeling proprietary so I didn't grab them all at the JY, but somebody better go get them.

Is it cheating if I drive my Jeep? JK. My hatch is still in DD form with stock 13" wheels and new radials. I have 14" pugs, but no rubber on them yet, which looks like what you are running. I am doing some cash work this weekend unforunately...$$ for the 5 spd swap and Justy rebuild. Looks like I will have to wait til next time. Have a blast.

Don't fiddle with anything else until the distributor is installed so that the flywheel says 0btdc not 8btdc when the #1 piston is at tdc on the compression stroke and the rotor is pointed at the #1 tower. The 8btdc is only for when you are setting the timing with the timing gun, not when you are checking the distributor postion with the engine off. These are two of the most fundamental operating parameters for the engine and it will never run right if it ain't set right. If you start messing with stuff without having this set correctly you will just make it worse. I have a hard time believing that GD told you this incorrectly. It must be an initial misunderstanding that has now been perpetuated. That's part of the problem with long posts...they get skimmed rather than read throughly. Seriously, check this.

So I noticed that you have been posting 8btdc w/ the #1 piston at tdc checking the rotor position at #1 tower. This may be your problem. It sounds like a distributor install and timing set combined into one. Make sure that when the #1 piston is at tdc AND the rotor is at #1 tower that the flywheel is at 0 degrees (zero)(engine off). If it isn't, you need to re-install your disty to those settings (engine off), then set your timing to 8btdc (engine running). I apologize if I have misunderstood you, but if I haven't you can quickly get that sweet brat running much better. If the disty install isn't clear just give a shout, it's a quick walk-through.

Is that Goat Mtn. south of Estacada? I live just on the other side of HWY 211 from there. That's 15 minutes from my house! if even that far:grin: I want to check that. Give a post next time you go and I'll meet you out there. I can even bring some guns so we fit in...just kidding. Makes me wish my hatch was lifted already, but it looks like you did fine without a lift if I am not mistaken. Sweeeet. I haven't explored too much because I was waiting to burly up my rig some more, but that's in my backyard! Gotta love the public lands of the PNW

I think the ~$50 price might have been for a re-bush versus a rebuild, but I'm sure GD will give you the full low-down later.

Thanks for the input GD. I might swing by the Damascus yard soon to check out the '89. I don't really need any parts, but a last model year hatch is a tantalizing Siren. The Sherwood yard is really far away from me so I don't get there much, but people have always been cool to me with the prices. Foster and Damascus is totally variable. Sometimes they don't charge me at all for expensive parts that they can't identify and other times they go out of their way to charge me for every nut and bolt and go through my tool box. Whatever...they're human.

Just an update, ea81's are back on the east side. I'm not going to keep updating this thread, but since I got skunked at Foster and Damscus a week and a half ago I thought I would check and report. According to their records Foster now has an '83 (3/9), Damascus has an '89 hatch, also ,Tigard has an '83 gl and an '86 hatch, and Vancouver has an '86 hatch. Disclaimer: This is info from a phone call. I have not verified this in person as I did a week and a half ago. U-pull-it=503-760-5820