ferox

Unfortunately no. I live in the hamlet of Beavercreek. The car sat at Beavercreek Salvage for a couple months, and everytime I drove by I said to myself,"I really need to stop by and check that out". But, not having much money, I was afraid that I would not be able to resist the temptation of buying it. They had it for sale with the original fender and hatch for about a month. I couldn't see anything wrong with them, but one day I drove by and they had an 83-84 wagon they were pulling the parts off of and putting on your rig. I really like the original blue color. And then it was gone. I saw it parked at a house out on Gard Rd., and now you have it. I am glad someone got it that appreciates it. It looks like a sweet ride. That's all the voyeuristic history I know.

Are your front passenger side fender and hatch a lighter shade of blue than the rest of the car?

Thanks 3eyedwagon. So there's a large body designation, I hadn't seen that before in my searches. That's what I was lookin' fer.

Bump...so nothing huh? I guess it's a bracket mod. then. It will be more adaptable anyway.

I did the GM alt. swap about a year ago I think, and found the case size to be smaller than anticipated. The space between the ears of the alt. was much narrower than described in the write-up. I needed to grind about 3/8" off each ear, and it sounds like more people are running into this. It seems like some of the older 7157's I have seen in the yards had a larger case. Has anyone bought a 100 amp GM 7157 somewhere recently that didn't require the major grind? Autozone apparently carries the smaller one. Or does anyone know why some alts with the same part # and application would be different sizes? What's the dealio? I would rather replace this one with one that matches the write-up instead of modifying my alt. bracket, and I am sure other members considering the swap would too.

I know how you feel. But if you think that's bad, try ordering parts for a Justy.

Well someone else will have to help you on that. I don't have any info. on the ea82 engine. However, you might get ready to take some pictures if you can, so you can ask specific questions, because most people will have the same or similar diagram to the one on your hood.

Is that an '86 wagon?

There's a good chance it's your carb., but you could change your PCV valve and clean the PCV hoses. It can only help, and it's cheap and easy. Get a PCV valve from the dealer, they are much better than aftermarket.~$9

What car is this? Is there a diagram on the underside of your hood?

We have been dicussing this on the Justy forum off and on for a while, and people have put Weber's on their Justy's. The Justy shares the ea82 manifold interface dimensions, hence Doug's bolt on. I exchanged a few emails with RedlineWeber, but they weren't terribly interested in helping determine the jetting required for the 1.2 L. They provide a kit for a 1.3L Honda, so the best Weber set-up so far appears to be the 1.3L kit with an ea82 manifold adapter. Jerry DeMoss is currently working on one right now I believe. I know you are not a fan of Hitachi carburetors, but the stock Hitachi works fine on the Justy with maintenance, and can provide ~42 mpg with a well taken care of vehicle. Eventually we will probably all convert to the ea82 carb, Weber, or FI, but for now no one has dropped the $ on a new Weber kit, and since naru showed us where the Hitachi rebuild kits can be found, it might take a little longer. However, the Justy Hitachi is more complex and computer controlled than the ea series, so the simplicity of the Weber is awfully inviting. I will eventually Weber or FI, but most people looking for power in a Justy seem to do a turbo build.

Thanks for your replies. Thanks naru for the links, those are perfect. I will post the info. on proboards.

I am trying to find interchangable carb parts for the Hitachi on my '88 Justy. I uses the same accel. pump as the ea81 and I assume the ea82. But I don 't work on ea82's, so I am wondering if this float needle is used in their carbs. Before anyone says, why don't you just get a carb. kit for the Justy?, the reason is: there isn't one. You have to buy the parts individually and it ends up costing $70-$90 to get them all. So if I can get a few of them in an $18 carb. kit for an ea82 I will be happier. A moderator on Justy proboards says he got a Justy carb. kit on Ebay once, but has no other info., so if someone knows the whereabouts of a Justy kit please let me know. Thanks.

If Markus56 doesn't want it, I'll buy it for $20. It would save me the trouble of building a 2" lift myself.

I got my Duralast 7157 from Autozone as well, but I did grind off the 3/8 on each ear (much to my shagrin) and had to put a spacer on the pulley. Next time I swap it I will mod. the alternator bracket instead. It seems like the older 7157's I have seen in the JY are larger cased. Mine is 4 inches thick exactly. I was hoping other people that have done this swap could pull a measurement off theirs along with brand and place of purchase, so we could figure out where the thicker ones can be found. Duralast 7157 Autozone 4 inches thick

I recently took my '81 into Les Schwab for alignment, and they said they needed to replace the inner tie rods before they could do the alignment. They wanted to charge me $400 parts and labor, but I did it myself for $90. When I pulled my steering rack, I discovered the existing tie rods were in good shape, but my steering rack had a lot of backlash. I couldn't feel it from the steering wheel. I removed the adjuster screw and pushed some synth grease in there, then adjusted the back lash. It's super easy, and you don't have to remove the rack from the car. It made a huge difference. But I digress I took my car back to Les Schwab and had them do the alignment $55, and my car is so nice to drive now. It handles so much better. So the point of my story is...I would make sure the backlash is adjusted properly and take it to a professional for alignment. Schwab charges $55 and you can make $15/mo. payments. I think it's worth it, but don't let them sell you parts and labor. They don't know these cars, and I think a lot of steering components and wheel bearings get changed due to too much backlash in the steering rack. And what is worse is when they say "Oh your car is just old and worn out and there's not much you can do about it."

Hi Jerry! I'll be talkin' to you soon about your 1.3 L Weber rebuild. Wow. Is that 2WD or 4WD? 1.6 L or 1.8 L? What kind of fuel delivery system are you using?

'81 4WD 4MT ea81 Hatch 263k 13" wheels Just resealed my Hitachi carb, new fuel filter, new PCV valve, new driver's side wheel bearings, thermostat, and alignment and my mileage jumped from 27+ mpg to 31+ mpg. The machine is running like a champ too, very satisfying. I am sure the carb reseal did the most good. The base gasket had a definite leak. I also resealed the oil filler tube and the metal plate where the EGR valve used to go, so it's hard to say what is doing what, but it's all good. I am even a fairly aggressive driver...but not the obnoxious kind. On a side note: when that bad gas came through the PNW my mileage instantly dropped from 27 mpg to 22 mpg.

If you want more low end, then the Weber is the way to go. At least that is what people say. I am still running a Hitachi because I plan on doing the SPFI or EJ swap in the future, but if not I would have a Weber. You can get the Hitachi to run fine, but it takes some dedicated patience. They don't seem to tune in according to the traditional methods of carb. tuning and many of them are just kind of worn out. I have finally got mine running spot on. The Weber on the other hand should respond to the standard methods of carb tuning. It's worth the money if you are sticking with a carbureted ea81.

It might have a weep hole issue.?

This was also happening to me in my '81. However I have a rew rad., new heater core, and blend doors were all adjusted properly. I just replaced the thermostat and all is well. It heats up proper now. These cars pump out the heat when working properly, so there is no reason not to be warm enough. Obviously check the heater core through the heater hose temperature difference and the blend door cable, but if you haven't changed the thermostat or have an aftermarket one in there I would just change it out anyway. The thermostat is a part that should be bought at the dealer. There is a huge difference in quality and performance between SOA and aftermarket. I just got mine from Lithia in Oregon City recently for ~$19 with gasket. They had them in stock, also pick up a PCV valve while your there, also in stock ~$9.

I take it you are not having the flywheel resurfaced.? It is easy to remove the pilot bearing with the flywheel off the engine. I would suggest getting it resurfaced. It will make a big difference in the way your new clutch works. I know you don't have a lot of money, but it will probably set you back $25-$35 at a machine shop. To remove it from the flywheel while it's on the engine, the best thing is a slide hammer puller. I think I paid $30 for mine. There are other ways(google-pilot bearing removal) that don't cost money, but they have never worked very well for me and can really be messy. If you have a replacement bearing you can get medieval on the old one, just don't scratch up the flywheel.

My FSM says this: 1) Remove bearing out of holder by using a press. 2) Press bearing by using Press (899754112)[screw-type press] Note: Do not depress outer race. Before I had a press, I changed a TO bearing using a hammer and punch to remove, and a block of wood and hammer to gradually tap it in. I think I heated the bearing holder as well. EDIT: Froze the bearing holder. It is as straight-forward as it seems, just take your time. Also, check to make sure the bearing and holder slide on the input shaft all the way back and forth. I have taken a bearing and holder off of a 4WD 4MT and put it on another 4WD 4MT and the second input shaft was slightly bigger than the first. The TOB would slide on enough for me not to notice, but would jam when pushed further back on the input shaft. I got the tranny put back in with it like that, and it kept the pressure plate pressed. I think there was less than 0.5mm difference in the diameters.

I suppose, maybe if the return line was blocked or something. I unfortunately don't know the Carter/Weber at all. Generally speaking though I would double check the float adjustments with FSM specs even if it's an over-pressure issue, they are easy to knock out of whack just by assembling and disassembling the carb, and then go for the pressure regulator since it's a generic pump. Does the Carter/Weber have the sight glass in the fuel bowl like the Hitachi's?

Unfortunately I don't have a Factory Service Manual with the Carter/Weber in it to verify those numbers, but someone will chime in later I'm sure. A pressure regulator won't hurt of course, but it would be good to make sure your float is dialed in according to an FSM.