ferox

Thanks for the info., very helpful. I pulled the FPCU, took it apart and found a fairly burnt component. I don't know what it is, but I smells and looks burnt. I have a hunch this is from the overcharging condition that has been going on in the car for a while now. I jumped the pump from the battery through the FPCU connector and the pump immediately started pumping fuel, so I think I have located the problem...with your help, thanks again. I think I know the answer to this one, but would an FPCU from a carbed ea82 work as a replacement? EA81's aren't as plentiful in the yards as they used to be (hopefully that's because more people are hanging on to them and fixing them up). The pic's don't quite show the magnitude of the apparent damage, but you get the idea.

Thanks guys The voltage dropped to 4.06 V with the pump connected. So it sounds like I have either corroded connections at the FPCU, bad connections inside the FPCU, or the most likely candidate...failed wiring. Does that sum it up, or am I missing another possibility? And is the FPCU behind the driver's side trim panel (steering column) on an '84 wagon?

So I have a fuel pump that is not pumping in an '84 wagon 4WD EA81 w/ Hitachi. New fuel filter and vapor separator. I was trying to get a current reading on it while the car was running, when the fuel pump stopped working. It seemed like the pump stopped running when I pulled on the wires lightly (literally very lightly), but I have biased my diagnoses too many times in the past and don't want to misread causation from coincidence. I jumped 12v to the pump and it seems to work great. With the key in RUN, there is 12.3 volts at the pump electrical connector by testing it with both: the meter connected to hot lead of connector and chassis ground, and meter connected to both leads of the connector. With the engine cranking, voltage at pump drops to ~1.7 V. I hooked up my Miti-vac to the line from the tank to the pump and fuel poured freely before any vacuum. Before the car died, I had hooked up the Miti-vac to the fuel supply line in the engine compartment and was able to pull fuel through no problem. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box under the dash. So the pump is getting power, and the lines aren't clogged, so it would seem that the pump is bad even though it seems to run fine when jumped directly to a 12v source. I don't know where the relay is or if there are any other fuses, so I have not checked those. Could the pump be getting full voltage, but minimal current? I just wanted to double check with you all to see if I am missing something before replacing the pump.

My wife's car is doing the exact same thing. Tonight she almost didn't make it home. Tested from the (+) battery post to the back of the alternator and got exactly 0.1mV [edit 0.1V]. Tested the coil switching action and it was extremely poor. Tested the coil itself and it was perfect. Fuses and fusible links are all good. The field sensor wire is not stock, so a PO has done something. This weekend her car will be getting a new GM alt. and charging circuit.

I guess it missed whether this is a Hitachi or a Weber. If a Hitachi, did EA82 carbs not have a sight glass? Anyway, I did not explain myself clearly before, I didn't mean to divert your attention from the needle, float, and seat by mentioning the return line. I only brought it up because it sounded like you had a lot of gas coming out of the air vent...if your return line was plugged and the float valve wasn't sealing it seems like you would have more gas coming out than if the return line wasn't plugged. I would definitely try to get it unplugged (try a Mityvac), but that is not the problem with the float chamber. The only thing I can think of that would not allow the float to move freely is the thin strip of gasket around the top of the float chamber unless the needle is actually binding in the seat or something. Good luck

Click on User CP, then Pictures and Albums, and go from there. If it doesn't make sense then click on FAQ and search "pictures". On the secondary diaphram, have you pulled the diaphram off the carb since you rebuilt it to check for blockage of the vacuum passage or a bad gasket seal?

I just picked up some new strut mounts from the dealer today for $57 (part # 721033010). I was going to see what my thrust washers and bushing looked like and reuse or replace depending on condition. The mounts are kind of expensive (my new front GR2's only cost $50ea. w/shipping), but considering their importance and the amount of load bearing they do I, personally, would look for the best price you can find on the highest quality, but I realize that is not always an option. For me it was between the KYB unit or the Fuji. The KYB is $56 at rock auto before shipping. The dealer will usually quote you a higher price, but if you mention the competitions price they can make adjustments...depending on the temperament of the person behind the counter and their opinion of Older Gen subies.

I think the tube you are referring to is the Air Vent Pipe. It should not have any gas flowing out of it. Is the fuel line attached to the solenoid? If not, then I think either your float is not installed/adjusted properly or the needle and seat are just completely shot. Is your fuel return line blocked? These are my guesses, but I am sure GD or someone can give a more experienced diagnosis. Pictures would be helpful if possible.

A dent free Justy is a rare thing, and that Justy is pretty sweet, so the dents are lamentable, BUT, at least you have a great story behind them (grocery carts aren't very exciting) and now it looks kind of bad rump roast. It has a "don't mess with me" "moosehammer" look to it.

My wife's '84 wagon does this too. I also checked the distributor and it was fine. I also took the disty out of my hatch that I knew worked perfectly, put it in her car, and it still did the tach thing over 3k. Just put in a new (used) transmission and clutch and it still does the crazy tach thing over 3k. I think her charging system is a little messed up, so I am eagerly awaiting anything you find out.

+1...35,000 on the EMPI's, 265k on the car

People have had a range of experiences with aftermarket axles. The Empi's I have used have been flawless. I think when people ask about front axles (as they frequently do) the need for good transmission mounts and engine mounts (but especially trans. mounts) should to be emphasized. If the old axles have worn out and failed that means they probably had a lot of slop and could tolerate/absorb extra motion from the transmission. If you then put new axles on, they will have tight tolerances and will be severely impacted if the powertrain isn't stable, especially if you have a lift. I would not be surprised if much of new axle failure was due to the condition of the vehicle it is being installed on rather than the quality of the part itself. [Edit] I just got new trans. mounts from Rockauto for $10 each. At that price, I will change them out with every axle replacement.

Yeah the fusible links on the '81's are the two red ones that tangle off the battery. Not a good set-up. I switched mine to the protected plastic box from later model years when I removed my voltage regulator. If you haven't switched those out already it would be a good thing to do just on the idea that they are old and flex with car vibrations by dangling there. Sometimes the f. links can be partially melted and function somewhat. I have extra f. links if you want. I don't work by your parents house anymore, but I could probably swing by there on my way to or from my new job and drop some off.

I did the top half of my hatch with amazing results and durability. I prepped with rattle can self-etching primer, then plasti-kote brand rattle can bed-liner, and then I topped that with plasti-kote epoxy wheel paint. The bed liner soaks up a lot of the epoxy paint, but it is like armor now. It's been like that for a couple years and I can't find a chip or flake anywhere. In the snowy months I use my ice scraper right on it without a scratch or mar. I was really just using the epoxy paint to match the color of all the other trim and wheel painting I did, but it turned out to be a fortunate accident.

The backlash in the steering rack probably needs to be adjusted, and it's easy. That may not be all of it, but it will help.

If you are referring to the pick-up coil that zyewdall was talking about then it is in the distributor. Do you have a Hitachi distributor? If you have a multi-meter you can check your coil and the distributor function.

My wife's '84 does what yours is doing when the fuel filter is getting clogged.

Nice score. I saw that one on craigslist a few times. I figured it was a USMB member project, but you didn't mention any names, so I guess not. Looks like it has some pretty tight custom bumpers. Sharp looking ride. You are going to have to give your mom a tutorial about it, because she is going to get a lot of questions.

The simple answer is yes, but really that means your carb needs to be rebuilt. I rebuilt my first Hitachi using the Haynes manual. Carb kits are between $16-$20. It's actually way easier than it sounds. As you disassemble the carb, scotch tape each part to a piece of cardboard and write the step # and part name next to it. If you follow the directions step-by-step it's a simple process. I (carefully) use Gas-ga-cinch on all my gaskets. Other people use Indian Head Shellac. I now also use a small amount of Permatex Ultimate grey around the coolant port at the base. Also, buy a couple long lengths of the vacuum hoses your car has on it and replace all of them one at a time. They are cheap and important.

Try to find out what the actual mileage is on the car. The odometer only has 5 numerals, so you have to add a 1 or 2 to the front of the reading. If it has over 200,000 or even 100k, it will likely need rebuild. At the very least the bottom end should be redone, so if it's rings, then you could try doing that. It's a simple small engine with only 3 cylinders, so as far as engine work is concerned it's fairly easy. A '91 with a new or rebuilt engine will get 45 mpg. The Justy has it's issues, but they are awesome little rigs if you are willing to fix them up. I highly recommend doing a lot of research on the Justy forum before you decide to buy, to see if your into it that much. If the PCV valve doesn't fix it, then it's probably more than just a gasket. http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?

Last time I used mine was to un-jam a table and saddle on a benchtop CNC mill:lol: Somebody jammed the Gibbs on it, I said,"I have the perfect tool in my car." It was like it was made for it. 5 seconds-done.

Are those Maxxis? Bighorns. Pretty burly looking. I think I know what tires I am putting on my 14's. Nice work. [Edit]Answered my own question reading another thread.

An ea71 with 160k on it should get great mileage. If you are only getting 13 mpg at best, then you probably have a compound problem. Meaning...we won't be able to tell you one thing to replace or adjust that will change everything. One caveat would be timing. Have you checked the timing? The other thing that I can think of is if you have two spark plug wires switched. Your car will run on two cylinders. Or you need a carb rebuild in a bad way. If you don't have a service manual for the the vehicle get one(Haynes is better than Chilton's), and or a manual called "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive". I got one on ebay for $6. Go through the maintenance procedures systematically. I think I would stop putting MMO in the gas as well. With all the detergents in modern gasoline an occassional treatment with Seafoam is really all you need.

The regular replacement CV boot will fit the EMPI. You might have to wrestle it a bit, but it will go. I've done two replacements, one went right on, the other took a little bit more gentle persuasion (about 5 min.). Both have worked fine since then ~1yr.

That is awesome. I would go overboard with graphics if I had that ability. Apparently your parents live literally 2 minutes away from me. If you're ever out this way you're welcome to stop by. I've done a lot to restore my '81 and have done a lot of work on the Hitachi carb. if you ever want help. Also, I have a set of those adjustable struts I'd sell if you don't get the one in Tigard. They are the Monroe version. I would let them go as a set for $5 over junkyard price. PM me if you're interested.