ferox

If you have difficulties with the install you are welcome to borrow my transmission jack. If I didn't have so much going on right now I would just offer to bring it over and help, but I'm swamped. I am sure you will probably get it done, but sometimes they can be a bugger, so...it's there if you need it.

The Justy does come in the single range 4WD MT, that's the one you want. The auto is ECVT. The '89 is the first year of the Gen 2 body style and I have seen both carbed and FI versions of it in the junkyards, so '90-'94 is FI. With a good engine most people seem to get about 35-42 mpg. 45 mpg is achieveable with a FI FWD, but a tired engine will drop to regular car mileage pretty easily. Justy's are cool cars, but they have their cons. Some parts are hard to find and expensive. I think new struts go for over $350 each if you can find them. And the oil pump issue requires a machine shop mod to fully correct. I think they were designed to have the engine replaced at 90,000 miles. The odometer only has 5 digits, although I have seen that '94's have six digits. If you want the high mpg's (which really aren't that high) you will probably be looking at doing some engine work. The plus side is that the engine is really simple. I'm just waiting for some $ to finish my rebuild. I like my Justy, but I am really only into it because of the 3 cylinder 4WD combo. I don't mean to sound discouraging, but other cars will give you the same or better mpg's with cheaper and more plentiful replacement parts. I would recommend the Justy if you are into it for more than just mpgs.

With a mix of hydrogen, oxygen, and vaporized gasoline in a system with constantly changing conditions (concentration, temperature, pressure) you cannot calculate meaningful numbers...it's intractable. It requires experimentation. kits = probably extra virgin snake oil concept = untested, undeveloped You can't say that existing technology doesn't do that, so future technology will never get there. Sure, some wire wrapped around a lexan core probably isn't going to get you very far, but I am sure the Wright Brothers were probably called quacks and a lot worse before they achieved flight. Just look at the career opportunity their open-minded perserverance provided for you. That's a good idea. If I were a garage scientist experimenting with this idea that would be my first step in determining if it even works in a real world engine and if there is a glimmer of success it would be the easiest way to explore optimization.

That is definitely not what I stated. My point is you can't say one way or another whether it works or not without experimental testing. It's just basic scientific method in which a hypothesis is tested and is either supported or unsupported. Skepticism is a foundational principle of scientific inquiry, but skepticism without inquiry is not science. If these statements are still referring to me, then I have to conclude that you did not actually read my post. You can drag out the "straw man" and HIT HIM WITH AS MANY CAPS AS YOU WANT. The claims of the people selling these kits do not seem credible. It is implausible that these systems can effectively be installed let alone work with as little effort as is claimed. If there is any merit to this idea it would seem to require extensive testing, tweaking, and modification. [EDIT: It is important to keep in mind, myself included, that HHO refers to oxyhydrogen and not hydrogen alone. With a combination of gaseous hydrogen, gaseous oxygen, and vaporized liquid gasoline in a combustion chamber with varying concentration, temperature, and pressure, predicted outcomes are theoretically intractable and must be investigated experimentally.] The quacks at MIT use a plasma reformer to generate hydrogen powered from electricity generated by the engine. If I remember correctly it uses up to 75W. This allows them to run ultra-lean resulting in 20-30% better fuel economy and drastically reduced NOx emmissions. This system is different than the HHO kits, but it shows that small amounts of electricity can be used to generate enough hydrogen to make a significant difference. Whether this can be done with an electrolyzer remains to be seen. http://www.greencarcongress.com/2005/11/hydrogenenhance.html http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2005-01-0253 http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2003-01-0630 http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2000-01-2206 This is petty. As an engineer you should conduct yourself with a greater level of professionalism and maturity.

To play devil's advocate...without verifiable data it is just as unscientific to say a process does not work as it is to say that it does work. It doesn't matter what you do for a living, it's the scientific method. Chuck H's theoretical narrative about energy densities completely ignores the physical chemistry of the system and assumes the deflagration characteristics of the hydrogen and gasoline mixture are simply additive. That has to be determined experimentally, and this is not basic chemistry. Hydrogen injection in gasoline, spark ignited, engines is not a new concept. The Sloan Automotive Lab at MIT, Caltech, Oak Ridge National Lab, and many European labs have been working on this for quite a while, not to mention advanced proprietary labs that do not publish their data. You can check the SAE website or the specific institutional websites for more detailed references on their work. Their findings show a 20-30 percent increase in fuel economy. Additionally, the volume of published work on this subject has increased substantially over the past ten years indicating that the idea has not lost traction. Their systems are obviously not the same as these HHO kits, but the concept is sound and verifiable. And if you ask why every car doesn't have hydrogen injection it's because it's still experimental, and you would also have to ask why fuel efficiency has gone down since 1985. For whatever reason(s) fuel efficiency technology has not been exploited to it's fullest extent and a lack of implementation in the marketplace does not mean a particular technology doesn't work. The misleading part about the HHO kits is that they are marketed as plug and play...a couple of hours and you're good to go. Trying to install these systems in an engine that was not designed for it would be problematic at best, and would realistically need a custom ECU and delivery control system to do it right. The concept isn't snake oil...the kits are. Gravityman has the right idea about bench testing his system. It is disappointing to see so much ridicule leveled at the people that have brought up this subject on the forum. They at least are trying to produce some data. It may be garage science, but it is more scientific than calling people names and saying it won't work based on unverified assumptions and incomplete theory. It seems that the people attempting these conversions are using the 2.2, which presents an opportunity, albeit garage-science, for independent verification and repeatability. However improbable their success may be, it would be more scientific and more in-line with the experimental spirit of this forum to help them with their experimental design than to chastise and mock them. I don't have the money to order the academic publications that contain the processed data from the aforementioned labs, but they are reputable sources, so I rely on their abstracts. I'm not picking a fight, and I am not trying to be a d*ck. I haven't built this system, so I don't know how it performs. No one does until they do it. I think it is highly unlikely that these kits will work very well as an aftermarket mod, but the people taking on this challenge deserve more respect for their efforts.

I am not sure if this means you are giving up on the HHO, but if so, you should talk to Gravityman a little before abandoning the project. He's converting a 2.2 as well. McDave posted a link in the #3 post on this thread to his [Gravityman's] original thread on the subject. You might try sending Gravityman a brief private message.

I have mostly heard horror stories about these types of cleaners, but not Amsoil specifically. I have used them a couple times in ea81's with good results, but I didn't use it exactly as directed. Obviously it's a solvent wash of the lubrication system. I used the cheap stuff that just says Motor Flush. I followed the directions exactly to do the flush, but after I drained out the the nasty stuff I left the drain plug off and poured some fresh oil in the filler spout to push a little more nasty out of the pan. I then put the drain plug back in, changed the oil and filter, ran the engine for 10 minutes to wash out remaining solvent then drained it and changed the oil and filter again. It seems like a waste of 5 quarts of oil and an oil filter, but I think it did a good job of washing out any remaining solvent and a bunch more nasty stuff came out with the buffer oil change. It was a one time operation for each motor, and based on what came out I think it was worth it for a high mileage engine. I have heard of this stuff ruining engines though, so if you don't have a lot of crud in your engine and/or don't wash out the solvent you could run into problems.

Awesome. Thanks for the input. I kind of live in the country with lots of curvy country roads...sounds like the exact thing I am looking for.

Sorry, I know this thread is probably way over, but your response to my offer kind of threw me... A lot of collectors I know like to have an opened copy as a companion to their wrapped or boxed collectible. I was just offering to give you mine for that purpose. I'll take your initial response as a "not interested", I just wanted to clarify an apparent misunderstanding.

Thanks for your replies. Sounds like the product I am looking for. Any comments on the difference in ride as compared to a hydraulic unit? Originally posted by aba4430 Yes I am really asking about shocks. Thanks for catching that...I hate using the sloppy talk.

I am looking for stiffer rear struts on an ea81 wagon with little to no lift for the time being. I was wondering what people's experiences have been like with the KYB Gas-A-Just? I haven't found anything in my searches. If that's a no-go then can someone tell me if there is a model of ea82 rear coil-over that was "shorter" than others? Or put another way...did some ea82's come with longer rear struts, so I can avoid them at the junkyard? I'm probably not going so far as to install a rear anti-sway bar, but suggestions for stiffer struts/suspension with minimal camber changes would be appreciated.

I have that exact manual not in the wrapper, but in almost perfect condition. If you want a companion manual to your sealed copy let me know. PM me, I'll drop it in the mail.

You can always call Richie at Superior Import Repair (503-288-8634). He can get you prices and the low-down on the various manufacturers. If you buy from him you get the over the counter transaction from someone knowledgeable in Subarus.

I have to throw in my pro-EMPI testimonial. The front axles on my '81 hatch MT are/were new EMPI's. They are three years old now and still totally solid. I put a new EMPI front axle in the '84 wagon MT about a year ago, same deal...totally solid. I think the key word is "new" not reman. Maybe EMPI's used to be a lower quality product, but the three I have used have been great.

It would be my guess that you are looking at a mechanical failure issue with a connecting rod or piston. You might be able to combine parts from your original engine, and/or just buy new pistons. Since there's only three little ones they aren't terribly expensive. These engines are super simple. My buddy just rebuilt his for around $700 (machining+parts+clutch kit). He disassembled it and reassembled it himself though, so I if you aren't willing to do that it will cost considerably more. However it was the first rebuild he has done and he did not know much about it before he started. It's doable for a novice with patience. Like I said before, get yourself a Factory Service Manual. If you are not willing to really work on the Justy, it's probably not worth keeping. If you rebuild it and maintain it, it will run solid, with good mpg's and push button 4WD for a long time. With a good carbed rebuild you will get 35-40 mpg. That's good but not stellar. A little Toyota, Honda, or Geo can get that or better and have plentiful replacement parts to choose from but no 4WD. A Justy is a committment. If you are not willing to make that committment, it's probably best to pass it along. I hope you rebuild it, but I am Justifiably biased. Good Luck

Did you do anything to the balance shaft or balance shaft chain? I am curious as to what kind of mileage you get after doing so little to the engine. Please let us know how it is going.

If you go so far as to dismantle the thing and pull it from the car you're welcome to bring it out to my place and throw it in the shop press. I also have a fairly large puller, but it may not be big enough. Last time we talked you mentioned you were getting a wire feed welder...you could rig up a hydraulic puller with a small bottle jack. Some thoughts anyway

I don't follow you. Is it frozen at the diff. or spindle to hub?

So this is referring to the problem with the oil pumps. The steel oil pump rotor shaft turns in an aluminum housing. If the softer aluminum wears down too much then you end up with oil pressure issues. Sleeving the housing refers to pressing a bronze/brass bushing into the housing where the rotor shaft goes through. I have heard much talk of this but never heard of anyone actually doing it. Some people think it is unnecessary. If you have precision measuring tools you could measure the shaft bore, or slide the new rotor into the housing and try a feeler gage to measure wear. A machine shop could also do it for you. Some people I have talked to say you should just replace the rotors and keep up on your oil levels/changes. If you have oil pressure problems later though that would be the likely culprit. I don't see why the sleeve wouldn't work...you just want to make sure you have good info before doing the mod. I would like to learn more about it myself, or hear from someone who has done it. So ThreeEyedBandit if you have some experience, dimensions, or tolerances to share that would be very helpful and appreciated. I have a couple extra housing plates I wouldn't mind refurbishing.

Looks like I was wrong about the roll pins. The punch I used was a 3/16, and the used roll pin diameter measured .2 inches/5mm.

The radiator support looks like it's spot welded, but it's actually held on by a couple nuts...same with the center bar. For the minimal amount of removal work you get a lot of clearance for engine/tranny removal and installation. The roll pins for the axles are smaller than for other subarus, but I can't remember what size and I couldn't find any info in the FSM, sorry. I'll try to remember which punch I used and post the size a little later, I just have to dig through my tools. I know you just want to get this thing running, but you might consider a carb rebuild before installation. They are ridiculously difficult to remove from the engine compartment. Also, it's probably hard to believe, but a carbed Justy will drop to EA81 and EA82 mpg's pretty easily if the carb needs a rebuild. At that point you might as well be driving a wagon. If you do the rebuild, they have an internal duty solenoid that is easy to break fyi. The Justy is like a small animal, it has a higher metabolism. There's only 3 cylinders, the parts are small, and they wear out faster. I know you probably don't want to replace all this stuff and put in more time, but it's worth it. Do it while the engine is out. If you don't, you won't get the mpg's, it will run like s**t, and you will be pissed because you will have to pull the engine again to fix it. It is for this reason that Justy's get neglected. Nobobdy wants to pay a mechanic to do the work, because it costs more than the car is worth. It then becomes a disposable vehicle. They drive it as long as they can and then sell it for $25-$250. You got a screamin' deal on your car. Put some time and (relatively little) money into it and it will reward you, if you don't it will piss you off. With two engines you're set. You can rebuild one really nice while still having a DD, when it comes to the maintenance removal you just swap them out. You can get .002 over-size ring kits for them and/or bore out the cylinders 1 mm and get new pistons, so you can keep this thing going for quite a while.

The axles are held onto the transmission with a single roll pin on each side of the transmission where the axle meets the tranny. They are fairly easy to remove, so if you have to use excessive force then you are probably using a punch that is too big and may be jamming it into the hole. The driver's side is easy. The passenger side is a bit of a PITA. You have to support the engine and tranny and remove the engine support that runs from the front of the car to the cross-member to get proper access to the roll pin. My Justy is an '88 (Gen 1) yours is an '89 (Gen 2), so they may be slightly different. On my Gen 1, I don't have access to the passenger side roll pin from the top, so I have to get under the car to tap it out. Important note: make sure there is enough space behind the roll pin as you are tapping it out. If the roll pin is pointed toward the engine, there is not enough clearance and you can pound it into the aluminum like a nail before it has cleared the axle cup. I make sure mine is vertical. You don't have to pull the suspension. If you are having trouble pulling the axles off the tranny you can remove the control arm bolts at the inner pivot point for more range of motion, just remember to put them back in after you get the axles free. You might start looking for a factory service manual now, because there is essentially no aftermarket manual. There is a Chilton's that has a section on Justys, but it is not to be bothered with. FSM's range from $30-$60 on Ebay. Don't bother with the CD version. Also, is you Justy carbed or FI?

Definitely replace the oil pump, water pump, alternator belt and balance shaft chain while you are in there. You will be glad you did. I would also recommend a new clutch. As for splitting the engine and tranny, I would recommend pulling both at the same time and installing them connected. There is not enough room in the engine compartment to easily line up the tranny with the pilot bearing. The key with the Justy is maintenance. The oil pump is actually a maintenance item. Since you basically have to pull the engine to get to it just replace the oil pump rotors when you change your timing belt. You might consider having a shop recondition your pistons too if you have the engine apart already. FSM highly recommended. There is not much aftermarket support for the Justy, but they are awesome little machines if you take care of them.

That's interesting. Based on what I have encountered in the junkyards here, a lot of Cali. models migrated north. More than I would have guessed anyway. Thanks again for the clarification GD. I have been trying to figure that one out for a while.

Alright...I understand what feedback is I just obviously did not know which systems were feedback or non. Thanks for the clarification GD. Not to belabor the topic, but if I understand your two posts correctly, then any 4WD with an ECU is a Califonia model. Orginally posted by General Disorder: