ferox

What specs did you use?

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When you installed the float did you adjust the float level and needle valve stroke to specifications? Your willingness to put a new carb on it is good because the carb you have is generally not so good. Where are you located? Someone may be able to help you out with another carb.

Do you have any rubber conduit running from the roof to the hatch near the hinges? I can't quite tell from your post where the wires are coming out of your hatch and roof. If you had a pic you could save yourself a thousand words and 20 questions. If you don't have a camera, then numbers of wires and colors would be helpful.

An '81 should not have a vapor separator. As long as your fuel pump is located in the engine compartment near the driver's side wiper motor then you should have a basic inline fuel filter. There is a vapor separator in your car that is a built-in part of the stock fuel system located near the fuel filler hose. The FSM shows the filter located right before the pump in the engine compartment, but my '81 hatch has a bracket for a filter under the car in front of the rear driver's side wheel. It doesn't have the metal plate like later models have. The bracket is just attached to the car. If you have the bracket you could run a primary and secondary, but I just use the one filter and make sure it is changed on a regular basis.

I don't know about the Webers, but when you take out the choke mechanism for a rebuild on the Hitachis it's really easy for the fast idle cam inside the choke housing to rotate past the choke lever. When it does the symptoms are just like what you are experiencing. I am talking about the cam and lever inside the electric choke housing. The fast idle cam has a tiny spring on it and usually the adjustment pawl on the fast idle cam hits the choke lever preventing it (cam) from rotating past it (lever), but when the choke mechanism is removed it's all loose and the little spring flips the fast idle cam to the other side of the choke lever. It's very subtle. I have to assume that the Weber has a similar electric choke set-up. If you have a diagram of what it is supposed to look like, it's easy to check and fix.

If you do the GM alt swap I would recommend modifying the alt. bracket instead of grinding the ears of the alt. case. It is a lot more grinding than I thought it would be, and that can't be good for the alt. internals. On the first alt. I did that with, the regulator went out after 6 months. The second one is fine so far, but I can't just go down to the parts store, exchange it, and bolt it in. Next time I need a new alt. I plan on modding the bracket. I chose the GM model over the Nissan or XT6 because I figured it is probably more likely to be stocked in most parts stores. I like to do most of my camping in BFEO (BF Eastern Oregon), and if the alt. went out in the rurals, I would most likely find a quick replacement and thank myself for modding the bracket as I am bolting it in and driving away. If you don't have access to a welder let me know, mine is very portable.

I picked up a set of the adjustables at the JY last weekend and they have this on the side: 736791 Made in U.S.A. C7061 I could not find a make, but they must be the Monroes. Just a FYI.

That would also be a good time to remove your external voltage regulator and switch to an internally regulated alternator. Renaissanceman did the write up (see link). It's super easy. You might also consider a higher amp alt. while you are at it. I put a 100 amp GM in my otherwise stock '81 hatch and it's awesome. I probably don't live too far from you if you would want some help or would like to check out the set-up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47847&highlight=alternator

Based on the passing lamp/headlight configuration...the fuel pump may be in the engine compartment near where the vapor separator is on later models, but the fuel filter is under the car in front of the rear driver's side wheel. No vapor separator, just the single filter. That is how my '81 hatch is, let me know if you want pics.

I would choose between the GR-2 or Gas-A-Just based on the type of driving the Brat is being used for. My '81 hatch and wife's '84 wagon are daily drivers, and we put Gas-A-Justs on them. They are possibly the best thing I have done for increased driveability (acceleration & cornering). I love them. Some people think they are too stiff though. If you are doing more offroad bumpy stuff, or like a softer ride, the GR-2's would probably serve better.

I have done a few DIY bed liner applications, both interior and exterior with good results. I think one of the keys to longevity is the etching type rust converter or self-etching primer. I have always done a good self-etching primer coat (2-3) before spraying the bedliner. I have also always used the spray can version which I'm sure costs a bit more. Rhinoline is of course going to be more durable, but more $. Definitely wear a respirator with some fresh cartridges because the self-etching primer and bedliner both have some hard core stuff in them.

This is actually really important. My wife used to just get $10-$20 of gas at a time in her '84 wagon which left a lot of inner tank surface area exposed to rust. She didn't have water in the gas problems, but the rust particles would pack the fuel filter almost completely full. We...I...haven't had to change the fuel filter since she started filling the tank each time, but ultimately I think I will probably have to drop the tank this spring, acid wash it, and coat it.

So I did not see anywhere in your post that the mechanics mentioned the fuel filter or vapor separator. Did they? Or has the filter been changed recently? If the fuel filter location on a Brat is the same as a wagon it is under the car behind the rear driver's side wheel. There is a metal plate with three(?) nuts holding it to the car with the fuel filter and fuel pump attached to the top-side. The vapor separator is in the engine compartment. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. I would suggest buying a manual. Even a Haynes manual will give you lots of important information that is easily understood by a novice. Also, you may get more responses to a more concise description of your problem, although thoroughness is also appreciated.

I saw a Loyale made into a nice two seater Bratoid around 7:30 a.m. this morning south of Oregon City near Beavercreek. Does it belong to a member? If so, you should post some pics. It looked very nice. Light Blue...looks like a sheet metal job with truck box and bed topper.

Changing the timing belt is not too bad. It can be done without dropping the engine. A FSM is basically the only manual for the Justy. Ebay is probably the best place to get one. My '88 is a Gen 1 Justy...carbed ('91=Gen 2). For the '88, the camshaft pulley has a 3 mm hole that lines up TDC with a mark on the timing belt. The camshaft drive pulley(attached to crankshaft) has a mark on it (opposite the key groove) that lines up bottom center with a mark on the aluminum crankcase plate. There is a plug grommet inside the passenger side fender well that you can remove to see the camshaft drive pulley better and loosen the nut to remove the crankshaft pulley. The procedure is probably the same for the EFI, but you should probably double check. The Justy is an awesome little machine, but if you are going to go Justy, get into it or get rid of it. As you have discovered, even the dealers know very little about the car, and most Justy's you pick up these days are basically going to need an engine rebuild. MPG's can be very poor for these cars without devout attention, and if there aren't good MPG's why drive an econobox deathtrap? That said...I love my Justy, and good luck!

I once argued with GD unsuccessfully about the power difference between the two disty's. The 2WD NippponDenso (ND) I had put in my '81 hatch rev'd the engine up quicker than the 4WD Hitachi. There were very pronounced differences in the way the two disty's drove. GD explained that it was probably a difference in the spring rates of the vacuum advance. I like the way the Hitachi drives better, but the ig. control module went out on mine recently. I have been running a different ND disty from the one I was using before, and this one drives a lot more like the Hitachi. So I think that is probably more anecdotal support for the vac. can spring rate idea. After a couple years of going back and forth between the two types and comparing and contrasting I can't see a difference in power, but there may be a difference in the way they behave ( if that makes any sense) which may even have more to do with the age of the disty (maybe the ND vac. can spring wears out and gets weaker sooner). I think general consensus is that the Hitachi is a better unit and I would agree.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to this. I have been very busy (including heater core replacement). Thanks to everyone with all the ideas, including rubber shotgun slugs. Skip, thanks for sharing your brilliant cigarette lighter set-up. I think I am going to have to make my own version of that or something similar. I appreciate everybody's input, and may your subies never be stolen.

So with all the theft lately I have really been thinking about installing disable devices in all my vehicles. I own four, three are subarus. If I go somewhere for a couple days all the rotors go with me, but I want something more like a switch that literally takes a second to disable the vehicle. My Justy will soon be reasssembled and resplendent, and I have convinced my brother that he needs a Brat...sweet temptations for would-be thieves At one point the condenser wire connected to the ignition coil on my Jeep broke and grounded out on the block, preventing the vehicle from starting. I was truly lucky in figuring it out quickly, and it gave me an idea. I connected the wire to a toggle and ground and it worked great as a disable switch. Looking at the engine you would never think twice about the extra little wire coming off one of the ignition coil poles. A determined thief would have a very difficult time seeing it. I eventually removed it because I didn't know if I was doing something bad by grounding the ignition coil to the chassis. So I have two related questions for the wise and experienced minds of the forum: 1) Does anyone know if there are deleterious effects from grounding the ig. coil to the chassis? 2) What are some good disable switch configurations? BTW: I hate car thieves. I REALLY hate car thieves, but do not point your gun at one unless you are personally threatened, plan to pull the trigger, and are alright with prison. It is even a crime to point your gun at someone without intent, and car theft is not life threatening. I understand the sentiment, but do yourself a favor...don't post intent in writing on a public forum and get yourself a 26" telescoping steel baton. The sound they make when you flip them to full extension is very similar to the sound of the slide cycling on a semi-auto handgun, but about 10 times louder.

I am sure these are somewhat amusing to people in the snow states and Canada, but not a bad snowing for the west coast. My wife's wagon is our snow gauge for now, so I might post a pic later for comparison. I wish I had a sled or inner tube.

Did you notice if there had been any work done on the throttle shaft(s) or throttle shaft bores? Or mention of it in the item description? Is this is for an '86 ea82? Glad to hear it worked so well.

If your car drove fine before your friend touched it, I would say first see if you can find out what he did. This also implies that the problem may be very simple. You can do a lot to make it run better, but you are going to need a couple things: 1) Timing light-this is an essential tool that can be purchased for a little $ or a lot. I personally would buy a light that also has an rpm readout, but you can get really cheap lights that just have the induction strobe. 2) A manual for your car-there are three basic manuals that I know of: Chilton's, Haynes, and a Factory Service Manual(FSM). The Chilton's is well known to be a poor manual. The Haynes is better, and the FSM is of course as good as it gets. The FSM may take a while to track down though. Any of these manuals should have the basic procedures and technical specifications you need. If you can only find a Chilton's it will suffice for now. 3) Aerosal Carburetor Cleaner-this will allow you to track down vacuum leaks and clean your carb a little. Get those items and read the instructions with the timing light and the procedure for setting ignition timing in the manual. Make sure the known vacuum leak is at least plugged. After that you should be able to set your timing. After that, I would replace all of the vacuum lines on the motor one-at-a-time, but if you don't want to do that, spray a burst of carb cleaner at areas of the vacuum system one at a time. If you spray the cleaner at say...a vacuum nipple where a hose is attached and the rpm of the engine changes in a noticeable way that means there is a vacuum leak that is sucking in carb cleaner. I also check the screws and bolts on my carb for tightness from time-to-time especially after driving in super cold weather. There are some screws you definitely don't want to touch without knowing what you are doing such as the fast idle screw, idle mixture, and air/fuel mixture screw, but you should be able to safely check the four nuts that attach the carb to the manifold. Your manual will have a detailed blow-up diagram of all the carb parts. I am convinced that many an old car goes to the yard due to simple vacuum leaks. I hope this helps. Get a manual and read it...if anything is unclear just ask.

To the Justy folks: I did the fabled Oil Pump Bushing Mod and posted a pictorial narrative on proboards. http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=engine&action=display&thread=2201

+1 I did something similar on my first rebuild. I took the additional step of scotch taping the parts I took off to the paper in chronological order and writing a small caption next to them. I only had a Haynes manual, but the carb tear-down and rebuild section was adequate to go through methodically. I have had to use a screw extractor to remove some of the float needle valve seats from old carbs though. Other than that it is pretty easy if you take it step by step.

The jack I have is the cheap H. Freight racheting scissor lift type with built in rachet strap on the saddle. It's pretty low profile with four casters. It's a POS, but it works great for these transmissions. Highness is essential...of the car of course. I make sure my car is as high as I can get it. I also remove the pitch stopper on the engine and run a compression strap through the rear engine lift eyelet and around the spare tire hold down bolt, so I can orient the pitch of the engine with the approach pitch of the transmission.