nutt7

any test I can do to check this or the amp for good spark? I have access to a volt meter

I need to check my ecu temp sensor, per poor 'cold starts' and poor 'cold' running and was wondering if anyone knows how to do this...I am handy with wires and a voltmeter thanks eric

my ea82t came with a single core...the dual core fit, no problem. not sure about ea81t...couldnt be too different

purple stripe = 7green stripe = 5 brown is the multiplier = 10 to the 1st so it = 750ohms marck is right, unless my electronics memory fails me

WJM, how much louder is the car after you gut the cat? my exhaust only has a cat and its kinda mild sounding...just wondering because when I build my turbo-back exhaust I am debating running only a cat or a cherry bomb also.

bump thanks GD, sometimes it idles low and runs funny when cold so i will look into that. do the temp sensors go bad often? ...any other possibilities??

hey there. my wagon is tough to start...most of the time...I did a search, but I need more opinions for my situation. here goes... 86 turbo wagon the car will crank and crank. I smell gas so I wait in case I flooded it. try again...cranking, cranking, no fire. wild idea, I pulled the ig. coil fuse to hopefully work some of the fuel out and cranked it for a minute, then I put the fuse back in and then it starts (barely, with foot on the gas so it stays alive) this is how I start it every time now. here is the weird thing. It runs fine once it starts. no hesitation. no stalling. the plugs are new. wires are ok. Im thinking coil or amp or cap and rotor...but why would it run fine once its started?

nice work...HKS...I admire quality parts any power gain/loss with no air flowing through the IC? is that BOV designed to recirc or blow to atmosphere?...if it can recirculate, plumb it into the intake if the MAF starts trippin' I need to get off my lazy tail and do something cool like that...

I used to drive a honda and called other hondas ricers...sometimes saturns and cavaliers are ricers...to me the definition does not refer to the cars origins, rather the dumb look and uneven cut springs and non-functioning parts or stickers of non-existent parts or trim levels... Me, I am a car guy. if it is quality, or fast, or creative, or rare, I love it!

The catalytic converter does a great job with emissions...the problem is, it doesnt work well until it warms up. thats why your car smells when you first start it in the morning. its called cold start, so emission nazis do what they can to heat your car up as fast as possible (ie coolant keeping intake temps up) thats also why cats are getting closer and closer to the exhaust manifolds, to heat up quicker. I think in cali they do underhood inspections and if they notice that you did something, they may fail you before you even get to the smog test...if you go to get emissioned, make sure the car is nice and warm. Drive around town for awhile before hand. Theres other tricks emission people have too, and some of the others on this board are emission inspectors so maybe they will chime in and give you better info than I could... eric

there are two coolant sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer...I think the one for the computer is on the firewall side of the intake mani...I will have to look into what it takes to bypass this passage...

I was in the process of retrofitting r134a in my 86 turbo wagon and when I added the oil, the compressor kicked on then the oil started dripping out from behind the pulley and got flung all over from my belts :-\ Has anyone heard of this? Is there a seal I can fix behind the pulley? If this cant be fixed, does anyone have a working spare? Its the square type I believe. It will be in the 100s here soon after this 90deg "cold" front leaves! thanks, eric

does anyone else have any opinions? or why coolant runs through the intake mani at all...unless thats the only way it gets to the TB. this interests me...I live in AZ, so icing is unheard of (at least in Phoenix) unless icing is a term that means something else other than what it implies...if it will help keep my car cooler, its getting bypassed!

As of now my wagon ac does not work...there is no freon...since there is no freon, can I retro fit r134a in there? or do I have to pump down the system first...(if thats the case I will just re-do my AC the right way, flush, dryer, seals, pump down, and add r12 again) I cant remember if you must evacuate the system first I was just hoping there was a cheap and easy way to have icy air blow through my vents because r134a is cheap and easy to get. Uhh, I am bored at work and cant think straight, so I thought I would ask you a question without thinking or researching...it has also been 100 deg. for the past 4 days...I think I am going to go drink some water now...:-\ hot and bothered, eric

on my 86 wagon, to check the codes you go to the computer, (under the steering column in my car) and disconnect the lil plug with two perpendicular leads and turn the key...look at the light on the computer and it will flash in a pattern...the codes are around here somewhere...do a search and you will find them. eric

good to know...its been 100' here for the last 3-4 days...the more I can cool the better!

I will wait for the new one...just let me know thanks, eric

Will, I will buy that oil cooler...whats your email so I can send you money via paypal? thanks for the input all! After I make this work I will let you know how it goes! eric

I am going to make a turbo timer, well sort of...how long should the engine run to cool off the turbo?? I have heard 1 min and 5 min. Any input? after this is proven to work for me I will give details on how this works eric

my dads chevelle used to do that...it was the ignition timing...maybe it randomly happened and has nothing to do with your turbo/up pipe...remember anything that can go wrong, will go wrong

believe it or not a cherry bomb makes a decent resonator, and you can get those at Checker/Schucks/kragen

Welcome to the board, even though I am still a green pea myself Go to user cp and go to edit signature or something like that and from there you will see...by the way, the little pic by our user names is called an avatar, (took me a while to figure that ) eric

take a peek under the dash and hood if you havent and make sure those little bastards didnt chew up your wiring...I work at a mazda dealer and bunnies and rodents always chew up the wires in the new cars ps...go back to the scene of the crime with cheese, a bb gun and lots of ammo!

the air flow of an ac condenser simply wont suffice as an IC (way too small in's, outs and rows)...as for the WRX IC, I dont know, but I know it has been done, someone will let you know...

On my 86 wagon, I pulled out the stock speaker and bracket in the front and also removed the grill in the door panel. I then mounted 5.25s in the door panel and they fit with a very very minimal gap aroud them (with the grilles on, you cant tell) Widen the hole a tad and you can fit most 6.5s out there. This way you also will get better highs and vocals because the speaker isnt mounted an inch or so inside the door panel and sound doesnt have to filter through the small stock grill. Another note...when rewiring for a new deck, it is not necessary to run wires through the door jams. Trace the two wires from the speaker through the door jam (by color) and into the body. you will run into a clip that you can unclip and run the new head unit wires to. this way is much easier than running wire through the door jam...hope this helps... eric