mountaingoatgruff

So I guess I can swap a manual rack onto an EA82T crossmember while in the yard (around here they're less likely to charge as much if you bring an assembled hunk of suspension over individual parts) then upgrade to P/S later when the EJ and the $ are there. I was worried I might have to come up with an EA81 P/S pump and brackets till EJ time. Any chance an EA81 manual rack would work temporarily for that with extended tie rods? Thanks for the info Gloyale.

Two questions about EA82 engine crossmembers: 1. Are there different crossmember designs with one for manual steering and another for power steering? 2. Do all EA82T-powered cars have power steering?

S'ko made me an offer on the Brat when I had offered it for sale as a project, he wanted to use just the shell to rebuild his totalled Brat. Hopefully he'll forgive me for refusing his offer... I'll have to contact him. I'll be looking for an EA82T crossmember to allow future ambitions.

i bought your set of 5 14" pug alloys months ago planning to put them on my hatch which also has rear discs but i'm now contemplating selling those to pay for the rest of the parts i need for this swap. like i said over and over, i don't want bigger wheels and tires without bigger brakes. 6 lug and rear disc swaps are plenty sufficient for enough guys to prove they work but for the routine city and highway driving i do i want better brakes and will not compromise the issue at the potential expense of my family's safety. after driving a lifted Cummins powered 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 for a few years now, these cars have amazingly crappy brakes... call me spoiled. also i have to admit that while 14" pug alloys look nice, i want UDSM WRX alloys for the Brat. so sexy....

i'll search about S'ko's Brat, thanks for the suggestion. i have rear discs on the Brat right now and i'm not satisfied with the brake performance. it still requires too much pedal force and now you have to be extra careful to prevent locking up the back end in sudden stops or low traction situations.

speaking of 85 hydro Brats... i have a hydro lifter EA81 longblock from my 85 Brat for sale if you're interested. about 160k miles on it, ran fine when pulled and i'm just not using it or the box of spare parts next to it (used EA alt, used hydro rocker assemblies, used straight hydro pushrod set, spare valve covers, nippondenso EA81 dist). i'd trade it all for other Subaru parts i want or $150. i also have the engine's old flywheel you could have - i don't know what kind of shape its in or what trans you've got for that matter but i won't use it either. i'm 4hrs from paso robles and could meet you halfway.

that's cool man, thanks for the picture. i have been conversating in this thread on 5 lug swaps about using an EA82 crossmember to pull off the swap without shortened axles. i don't want to fork over the $ for custom axles or XT6 parts but i would like a small lift, so i want to try to make 2" crossmember blocks as "adapters" then use EA82 crossmember, control arms, radius rods, and maybe P/S with the EJ stuff i already have (knuckles, struts, brakes and wheels).

i'm not building a weekend warrior, my brat has to be dual purpose. i have to deal with traffic and highway driving more often than i get to offroad - which is actually quite rare and obviously nothing hardcore. also, i'd like to be able to feel safe about others driving the brat so i won't put bigger wheels on without bigger brakes to stop them. i don't want to use expensive hard to find XT6 parts or expensive custom shortened axles, i can get EA82 and EJ parts easily and i have been waiting to build my measly 2" lift forever now so i'm just trying to be creative i guess. i have a set of legacy 14" steel rims with nearly new tires and a set of impreza knuckles with brand new oem bearings begging to be used. i have been daydreaming of 2" crossmember blocks of a couple different designs as "adapters" to bolt an EA82 crossmember to my brat, reamed EA82 control arms, EJ ball joints, kuckles, struts & brakes then FWD impreza axles or AWD EJ axles with EA inner cv parts (idk). i'd stuff some EA82 P/S in there too if i could find an EA81 pump and know it'd all work. i'm still reading about the rears.

my point is to avoid custom axles - i am not interested in buying multiple sets of custom axles to be able to offroad safely...then buy more custom axles when i inevitably break cv's. screw that, i'd rather leave it 4 lug.

does it simply bolt up? with or without a lift? does the wider track tweak the strut mounts? i'm trying to figure out if i can use an EA82 crossmember to widen the track on my Brat enough to pull off a 5 lug swap without custom shortened axles or a lift.

check them with a multimeter for continuity. if you shorted your acc terminal and melted a fusible you'd be looking for the ignition curcuit on FL-2, one of the red ones.

looks like Gloyale fit an EA82 crossmember to an EA81 chassis to use EA82 control arms in this thread. i wonder, could i use an EA82 crossmember to widen my front track enough to not have to use custom shortened axles?

i thought about that after posting the question. i'd still like to know if they're compatable but it'd leave me without a handbrake so i think i need to read about maybe using EJ rear discs.

my 85 brat's bumper is very different from the bumpers of either my 84 hatch or the 81 wagon in my driveway right now. the brat bumper is painted metal with a license plate slot and obnoxious plastic ends. the hatch/wagon bumpers are wrapped in plastic with no plate location.

are EA82T and XT6 rear discs the same? i already did the rear disc swap on my brat and i'm wondering if XT6 hubs will now bolt up. if so, about all i need to get to 5 lug my brat is some EJ front strut/spring assemblies, rotors, balljoints, (using impreza knuckles/front brakes) and a pair of XT6 rear hubs.

i recently called a few shops for exhaust for my brat and learned that CA cats supposedly have to meet new CARB standards for 2010 including having the part number stamped into them and exhaust shops are no longer legally allowed to sell/install the old ones. anyone else seen this? like i tried to say, in CA smog every detail of your air/fuel/ignition systems is emissions related even if it is superficial (though an ADS is obviously not) and regardless of how ignorant/stupid the smog tech may be. ahhhh.... criminal and socialist substitutes for actually fixing something.... that's refreshing in this state.

did you watch the smog tech's timing light indicate 14deg? sounds like they're just BSing you about how the advance feature works on their equipment so i'd want to know how they came up with 14deg. in the context of CA smog, every part of your carb is "emissions related" and has to be working properly as originally designed. some places are more anal-retentive than others, as it seems you've noticed. i just found out CA supposedly revised cat requirements as of 1/1/10 and the new ones are over twice the price so beg the power of your choosing you won't need those...

i read this thread and i have a couple related questions for our resident SPFI gurus: 1. if the purpose of the EGR solenoid is to prevent the EGR from opening while the engine is cold then would i be correct to assume something is less than kosher when the EGR opens even with the engine dead cold? 2. what would cause this, a faulty CTS?

number one cylinder is the front passenger. bad timing can make it run like poo and waste gas. follow the instructions for the timing light you're using, making sure the advance dial is not causing an error (if applicable). also, your 91 Loyale must be fuel injected so make sure your green test connectors (behind driver's strut tower or under steering column) are plugged in while setting the timing then undo them when done. this is part of the proceedure.

the law in ca is you can swap in a non-factory motor under 2 conditions: 1 - the retrofitted engine is of equal or greater displacement. 2 - the retrofitted engine meets all CA visual and emissions tests for the vehicle it came from. this means you have to use the donor's evap can, cats - everything emissions related has to be swapped to match the donor...EVERYTHING. what'll happen is, next time you go to smog it and its been retrofitted the smog guy will refer you to the CA Bureau of Automotive Repair to have your vehicle inspected by a BAR Smog Referee. The ref will check that you meet CA emissions for the donor vehicle and if you did your swap properly and pass emissions he'll put a sticker in your engine bay that tells all future smog guys you see to smog your vehicle according to the donor car's criteria. i have personal experience with this from my SPFI retrofit and am about to try smogging my SPFI BRAT once i can scrape some $ together.

a friend of mine just bought a beater 87 EA82 sedan (SPFI & D/R) for $280 and we're making a wheeler out of it. thing is, most of the SPFI system is mia so we decided we want to put one of my old mopar 2bbl carbs on it. one is a '62 Stromberg from my Dart and the other is a Carter BBD off an '85 318 truck - i'll probably go with the Carter for it's lack of wear and availability of parts. according to the cfm calculator at 4secondsflat.com (using 5500 for redline and 80% for volumetric efficiency) i get a demand of ~405cfm for a Dodge 318 and ~140cfm for an EA82. i'd GUESS the Carter is flowing in the mid to high 300's, well over double the carb needed. now the ?'s: is that too over-carbed without other mods besides gutting the exhaust? we need to grab another intake (looks like somebody got mad at this one...) so which one should i get? SPFI or carb'ed? i'm thinking i want to make an adapter that will lift the carb up and allow it to be oriented correctly but honestly i've never seen a bare EA82 carb'ed intake so i don't know what the carb pad on those looks like or the differences. are all carb'ed EA82 distributors the same? how hard is it to convert an auto choke to manual? does any of this sound reasonable or am i trippin balls?

just my .02, but if i had a leaking radiator and a half gallon of coolant missing i don't think i'd fly down the freeway flogging my car to 5500RPM's. but then, my cars haven't seen 5500RPM's since they met me so maybe that's just me.

when i do front axles i always remove the ball joint pinch bolt and pry the ball joint down out of the knuckle to get things opened up. there is definitely no need (under normal circumstances) to have to unbolt the control arm. recheck the part numbers. shouldn't be mixed up since your Brat is an '83 but are you sure its not an EA82 cv axle?

sounds like maybe your struts have more lift than your crossmember. are the blocks on the struts & crossmembers all 6"?

what's up. are you an alex grey fan? i have a huge poster in my house of the pianting your avatar is clipped from - i got it at a tool concert when 10,000 days came out. if you haven't already you might try searching in the newer generation forum for what to look for when buying a WRX - i don't play with those myself.