mountaingoatgruff

magnecor plug wires are great, been running them for about a year and transfered them to different cars twice now. pretty pricey but they're supposed to last much longer than anything else. i got them after putting brand new bosch wires on a 97 EJ22 and listening to it choke on it's own tears. i got some ngk iridiums for my hatch when i finished the spfi. it had a nasty misfire and when i pulled them i found the center electrode of one had shattered. i gapped them carefully and i always use a wire-style gapper not the tapered gauge style so i'm inclined to believe it was a defect. probably not common but i just buy plain ngk's for my subarus now - no noticeable difference anyways.

97 2.2 does not require shims to adjust, only tools.

i've used both on my own skin and i've only noticed a few minor differences: med grade burns less because it oxidizes more slowly, which also means more time to work with it. med grade also is usually dyed and scented. definitely not worth additional cost. i buy off brand CA at the dollar store, works just as well. if you're going to keep CA at the ready, make sure it's sealed. once opened that stuff dries out over time. i also carry a freash tube of black rtv in my traveling tool box.

is it okay to use p/s fluid in these cars? is it compatible with atf? all the subaru stuff i've seen says to use atf. not trying to call you out, qman. i've been wondering cuz the p/o mixed atf and p/s fluid in my wife's 97 OBS. i'm sure mixing it isn't good, i just need to know if i need to flush it before replacing the fluid. i only noticed cuz the return line leaks badly so i'm replacing fluid either way.

+3 i use them for everything. when they start running dry, store them point down and you can milk some more marks out of them, otherwise i store them horizontally. i quit using white-out pens when i found silver sharpies.

i used to try to act macho about first aid and medical needs, but the simple fact is that this country and it's healthcare system are both on the brink of collapse for various political reasons and regardless of where you stand on that issue - you'll either know how to properly treat yourself and others or you'll die of infection or something just as easily prevented...or worse you'll watch loved ones die because of your ignorance. i've invested literally hundreds of $'s into medical supplies for my own use and my wife is training as an EMT so we can treat ourselves instead of throwing ourselves at the mercy of the criminal cartel this country calls health insurance. we're not there yet, but we're learning and trying. if you gashed you palm on a jagged piece of metal, would be able to stitch it yourself? do you have family or close friends capable of doing it? do you even know how to properly stop the bleeding? hospitals and clinics rely on the economy's health to remain in operation - that's obviously going down the tubes faster than anyone can even keep track of and its only gaining momentum. time to wise up or sign up for early enrollment in a fema camp, folks. recognizing a threat and being prepared is not a sign of fear, if anything its a sign of intelligence. neglecting or denying a threat is the essence of fear.

superglue is great for bonding to skin. superglue comes in methyl-2-cyanoacrylate and ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate. CA is used in the healthcare industry everyday, medical grade is 2-octyl cyanoacrylate. i dropped the tail end of a 4EAT on my right ring finger a few months ago and the flesh was torn too badly for stitches so they glued it together. nasty scar but the stuff works! to use superglue on porous surfaces, smear baking soda on the joint first.

my sister in law just bought a 72 super beetle and needs help with it. she wants me to teach her how to work on it herself but since she's in texas and i'm in cali i can't help much. i need some good online resources to email her. i already had her buy htkyva. anything is appreciated. in particular she needs to find out what engine she has (year, solid or hydro lifters, etc.), what carb she has (her mechanic said its not factory) and how the heat sheilds & cooling shrouds should be setup.

i'm suprized nobody mentioned even a basic first aid kit. one good gash or fall or whatever can end you if you and those around are not prepared.

i've made a few tools here and there. the one that comes to mind at the moment is a socket i made for adjusting the brake band on 4EAT's. i cut the head of a box end off and welded it to a little 1/4 drive socket to get the inch-pound torque value on the square-head adjuster bolt just right without rounding it. oh, and i countersunk a drywall screw in the end of a 2' piece of closet pole to use for pulling rear crank seals from ej blocks. drill a little hole in the seal, hand thread the screw in and it pries them right out without a scratch everytime. i've also got my "custom benchmount soldering iron" - the heating element from an old laboratory hotplate just sitting on a ceramic floor tile. i've only electrocuted myself with it once, won't let that happen again.....

anyone know if will my brakes work safely if i unplug the abs computer and throw the non-abs 93 knuckes on there? the 93 knuckles have brand new bearings and ball joints begging to be used.

spent 2 hours with an oxy-acetylene torch, p'blaster and a 12 ton press and its still stuck. i could see the knuckle literally bending under the pressure but the axle would not come loose! my dad insisted on trying some more tomorrow, he's going to try cutting the back of the cv off then drilling the splined shaft to see if it will loosen up. guess i'm getting another knuckle...

thanks for the replies, folks. i have the trans out, and the knuckle on the car. i disassembled the doj so i could get the trans back in and still wail on the axle if necessary. makes it a bit easier to hammer too. i have access to a 12 ton press, so i'll just have to remove the whole mess and see what happens. i've been trying to avoid doing that cuz i've read that those knuckles can be warped easily (i think i read that about changing wheel bearings).

i'm trying to replace the front axles on my wife's 97 OBS and the pass side axle is stuck in the hub. the driver side was rusted and difficult, but the pass is not going anywhere. so far i've tried deep creep, liquid wrench, a propane torch, a 3 jaw puller, a 3lb dead blow mallet, and a 5lb iron sledge but i'm not making any progress - in fact the end of the axle is mushrooming... ideas?

if you have another connector, you can pull the pins out of the old one and slip them into the other, no soldering. or you can cut and solder. either way, replace the broken connector.

hmmmm.........

where is the manifold oil leak? under the pcv?

i've been wondering about this since all i could find to replace my hatch's tore up rear seat was a wagon seat. btw, hatchback seats are much lighter and my 84's bench didn't fold up, the backs would come down and only so far. i guess they intended for the user to remove the two bolts and take the whole cushion out to completely lay the seat backs flat in a hatchback.

4 feet!!! but really, how hard was it to make these? as in, how did you calculate offset?

anyone know if first gen OBW and/or forester struts & springs will fit a 97 OBS?

to clean the iacv, you should remove it. otherwise the junk just stays in there or goes into your engine.

while replacing my pcv, i cleaned the curved hose and i also replaced the lower hose between the block and the plastic t - it was rock hard and developing cracks. 5/8" emissions hose works but its a pita to get onto the pipe sticking up from the block, after about ten minutes of shoving and a couple bloody knuckles i used a razor to cut a chamfer in the bottom end of the hose and still had to fight it. woulda been nice if anyone local carried something a bit bigger...

may i recommend fixing the fact that your breathing your car's noxious exhaust as you drive it priority one. c'mon dude, if you can smell your exhaust at 60mph that's not minor.

there's only a few things to wire on the 5speed - backup lights, 4wd indicator, neutral switch and clutch switch if applicable but that one's gonna be on the clutch pedal assembly, obviously. you can look up which wires in the a/t harness to splice into for these things then leave the others in the tcm connectors and just remove the tcm. if you go with a s/r or d/r 5speed, you'll want to add some kind of 4wd indicator lighting to your dash. if you get an rx trans, you have to rig the diff lock stuff.

it might, but i'd be hard to drive with a fuel tank bolted to your hood... but seriously, what are you trying to use this for? surely it can't be that difficult to rig a pump, and in just about any application i can think of its much safer.