mountaingoatgruff

thanks for the pics and update. how's the mileage? i'd imagine it should be slightly better than with the AWD 5MT but i'm curious if dragging around the selective 4WD system might negate that.

huh? in a village, yeah - find a podunk smog man and thank yourself for living there. in the cities where smog is a big deal - i'll believe it when i see it. remember, in ca your vehicle is supposed to be inspected in the county its registered in and different counties maintain different levels of smog nazi fascism.

i got a rebuilt 93 imp 4EAT down in turlock that'll bolt up to your EJ. i've been sitting on it for months and i'd let it go cheap at this point and throw in every 4EAT related part i own - i don't own any auto cars and i don't plan on changing that. let me know.

is oil burning during rh turns a problem with SPFI EA82's? i put almost 10k on my hatch after SPFI and never noticed any huge clouds of smoke from my car but then its not ohc. so if the crankcase air is metered would it be practical to search for a vac leak around the oil filler & dipstick? assuming the vac leak couldn't be found elsewhere, of course.

does the imp's speedo cable thread into the EA82 trans? if the imp was a 3.90 diff car to begin with (no mention of rear diff swap so i'm assuming it was) the only thing throwing off the speedo would be the tire size, right? i don't know how accurate that is, i'm just asking for the sake of my own curiosity. i'm also curious about how they rigged up the d/r shifter. pics for sure.

totally correct. my carb was shot and to get it to pass smog would have been a nightmare. the fact is though, they don't care about what's right/wrong, good for the environment, etc. CA emissions laws are written with ONE purpose in mind: to force consumers to spend money (particularly on state services and/or new cars) my 83 wagon with a d/r 4 speed and factory carb'ed EA81 got about 22-24mpg average. my 84 hatch with a shot d/r 4 speed and SPFI EA81 got about 28-30mpg average. i can't wait to see what my mileage is going to be like with my brat now that it has a d/r 5speed and SPFI EA81. if CA won't pass my brat i guess i'll finally be forced to make good on my threats to leave....i've only been trying for years....

i've had a hell of a time with smog inspections and BAR referees since getting into my SPFI retrofit. if i'd have known then what i do now i'd have never wasted time retrofitting SPFI to my EA81 and i'd have gone straight to EJ's. emissions laws in CA state that you can do an engine swap under 2 conditions: 1. the retrofitted engine must be of equal or greater displacement than the original 2. the retrofitted engine must have all emissions related equipment intact and functional according to the design of the vehicle from which it came upgrading a vehicle's fuel delivery system is illegal in CA unless its part of an engine swap so by the letter of the law retrofitting SPFI or a Weber is illegal whereas an EJ swap is perfectly acceptable. to get my SPFI retrofit inspected by BAR i had to totally b.s. the ref about the differences between EA81's & EA82's and the factory options of these engines as a way of blurring the fact that i'm trying to get them to let me break CA law.

the smog guy you take your tampered-with CA car to will decide exactly how big a deal to make out of this stuff and they usually just instantly refer you to the CA BAR as soon as they see tampered-with/modified parts. i have a buddy that's a smog tech in Denair, CA. he has told me stories of ricers trying to sneak mods through there that would make you laugh till your eyes oozed from your head. his protocol is to refuse service and refer those customers to the BAR. i know from plenty of first hand experience that some of them actually do the visual inspection like they're supposed to and under those circumstances i doubt that any amount of "oem camo" would get a weber under the radar. fact is some guys get lucky and some don't - makes it a real crapshoot to play the emissions game in CA.

hey guys thanks for bringing this up. i unintentionally eliminated that vac relief line when i did my SPFI swap but after reading this thread and checking with my '84 FSM i think i'll fix that.

'90 Loyale oughta be SPFI - there's a small coolant hose between the pipe on the back of the manifold and the throttle body that you might consider replacing in addition to the little one between the t-stat housing and the block. iirc, i used 1/4" hose for both. also, when i replace hoses i also try to replace the podunk factory Subaru hose clamps with better stainless ones. the sleek ones on Subaru EFI fuel lines are stainless and work perfect for those little coolant hoses.

there's a coolant crossover in the intake manifold and its not uncommon for those intake gaskets to seep coolant, even into the head. replace with OE Subaru gaskets from the dealership only (i pay $4.40 each) - aftermarket knockoffs are junk and notorious for failing.

most US sold EA81's were carb'ed except turbos which have mpfi. ALL EA81 engines have the camshaft in the block, gear driven by the crankshaft, and had solid lifters till mid 80's. look for gold stickers on the valve covers that say "do not adjust" - those are hydro lifter engines. also, hydro lifter blocks don't have the two little bolts on the bottom of the head, just little "tabs" to cover the holes in the block. solid & hydro lifter heads are interchangeable (use the rocker assembly that matches your lifters) and the hydro lifter heads have 2mm bigger intake valves. EA81 equipped cars were sold from 80-84 except brats and hatchbacks which were discontinued for the US a few years later. EA82's (85-94?) all came carb'ed or mpfi turbo till 86 when spfi became available. spfi was refined in 87 so the earliest models are not good donors for those parts. all EA82 motors have a single ohc in each head and a timing belt for each. EA82 engines suck and came in hideous cars but they had lots of goodies to retrofit onto EA81 engines and cars. EJ series engines are a whole different world from EA81's/82's. EJ engines all have 16 valves as opposed to 8 in EA engines and EJ's have a single timing belt that is much more well designed than an EA82. in the US, every EJ you find will be mpfi, carb'ed models weren't sold here and i'm not aware of spfi on an EJ. all EJ's are sohc except wrx turbos and early 2.5's. look at the front of a few motors and you should easily see by the shape of the t-belt cover if the heads are sohc or dohc. every EJ22 is hydro lifter until 96 when solid lifters showed up. factory specs show solid lifters started in 97 but i've seen 96's with solid lifters, 2 of them. ...i might get flamed cuz i'm no expert but i tried.

yeah, with factory a/c there's way less room behind the box. i like having easy access though. all i keep in the glovebox is ins and reg - they'll still slide in on the bottom.

bump to share my progress. i took this last week off for more sidejobs but the work continues on monday.

glad to see you passed, sonicfrog. how'd that trans work out for you? i'm hoping to get my project smogged by the end of the year but i think my hatch may go down as the longest most drawn out ej swap of all time...waiting on $ right now...

84 GL hatch 97 OBD I EJ22 SJR adapter 89 D/R 5speed i modified the 97 engine's intake wiring to work with the 92 ECM fixed to the ceiling of the glove box, the 92 harness, and the 92 cam/crank/knock sensors. this way i get the diamond coil pack and i just left the pipe in as part of blocking off the EGR system. among other things i still need to get a 92 throttle body, a grommet that fits the pass side hole and finish soldering in the female engine plugs. all the MPFI fuses, relays and diagnostic connecters are tucked below the ECM and once its running i'll pull and wrap everything.

that'd be great. i've seen pages here and there showing different things but i've still never seen a good source of info for these things.

rattlecan cap and duct tape.

why don't they just say stopped?!? i don't mind anal retentive engineers but specifying 2mph or less is sort of misleading. damn, this Siren is hot! well, i tested the booster cuz it seemed my symptoms were pointing there and found the vac hose was backwards so the check valve was preventing vac supply from reaching the booster. flipped it around and the brakes work great so apparently like gary said i didn't need to do sequence control.

thanks for the pdf, nipper. "Sequence Control Operational Guidelines • Connect diagnosis terminals to 3 terminals (K) and 6 terminals (L) of the diagnosis connector located under the driver’s side of the instrument panel. • Set the speed of all wheels at 2 MPH or less. • Within 0.5 seconds after the ABS warning lamp goes out, immediately after the ignition switch is turned to on, depress the brake pedal and hold. Caution: Do not depress the clutch pedal. Note: When the ignition switch is set to on, the brake pedal must not be depressed. The engine must not operate." it seems like its saying you have to have all the wheels rotating at 2mph with the engine off... huh? then all it says about sequence control besides how to get there (the above excerpt) is this: "Conditions For Completion Of Sequence Control • When the speed of at least one wheel reaches 6 MPH, the operation is returned to the normal control mode. • When the L terminal is separated from ground, the operation is returned to the normal control mode. • When the K terminal is separated from ground, the operation goes to the trouble code display mode. • When the brake pedal is released during sequence control and the braking lamp switch is set to OFF, the operation is returned to the normal control mode." what am i actually supposed to be doing by placing the system in sequence control mode and how do i know if i've done it?

97 OBS EJ22 5MT ABS is there some special technique or procedure for these brakes? i pulled the booster and master out for other work. i also disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the front brakes while replacing axles - pads and rotors are worn but okay. i haven't touched the rear brakes yet. i bench bled the master before reinstalling, then bled each wheel in this order: right front left rear left front right rear i didn't see a bleeder or anything on the abs unit so i didn't do anything with it. pedal feels good but you have to press harder on the pedal than before. does this sound like air trapped in there or maybe a problem with the booster? i couldn't find answers by searching. thanks

looks like the digi lacks alt and oil press gauges, or are they just hiding? seems like a helluva pita for less info anyways.

doesn't seem like it would make sense to go through all the trouble ($) they did to up power and efficiency in 97 and not use rollers. this part caught my attention, too: "...The piston, a major source of engine friction, has been coated with a friction reducing agent called Molybenum. This thin coating not only allows smoother travel through the cylinder, but also reduces cylinder wall scuffing..." isn't the friction between cylinder walls and the piston rings? how would coating the piston help? or are they just talking about after your 97 gets piston slap? just wondering since i've got nothing better to do at 2am on a school night...

http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/overhaul.pdf the note at the bottom of page 6 of this article says all 95 and later EJ22's have roller rockers. i'm not sure when this article was written, but it has photos showing 97 solid lifter heads and the newer style t-belt tensioner. i'd assume the article is only refering to phase I EJ22's. i'm just wondering if 97 heads have rollers & solid lifters.