aircraft engineer

these guys are for real - they sure saved my bacon. But I was doing a 2.2 not a 2.5 remember guys, the torque curves are really helpful to those who know how to read them

With the crankshaft pointer "up", the cam pointers are either "up" or they're down. If they are "down", rotate the engine 1 full turn before removing the belt (how you turn it is up to you - I just used 2 allens in the round holes and a big box end wrench). The "ratio" is 2:1 (crank turns 2 turns for each 1 turn of the cam - has to be that way, no other possibility) The 2:1 ratio is basic to the 4 stroke engine and is why on "geared" camshafts the cam gear is exactly twice the diameter of the crank gear. This is just driven by a belt - the ratios are identical The cam pointers MUST line up when the crank pointer is at "top" (either they are "up" or they are "down" - 180 degrees out - but they MUST line up or you are way, way out of time) Try my popsicle stick (tongue depressor) and small (1 inch) C clamp idea next time to hold the belt to the sprocket alignment. The belt cogs will stop the belt from sliding. with the marks on the belt aligned to the notches (more precisely, the MARKS ON THE SPROCKETS) it CANNOT be out - assuming it's put on with the direction of rotation correct. any possible error in the new belt will be a maximum FULL tooth (because you CANNOT have a 1/2 tooth error on a cogged belt - it's always a whole tooth one place or the other) That count of 40.5 teeth is because the difference between the pax side sprocket mark and the crank marker is a "crest to crest" and from the crank marker to the driver sprocket mark is a "crest to valley" (which is 1/2 "tooth") BTW - Chilton's is better than NOTHING, but not a whole lot. They try to cover every possible combination of engine out there and only give 1/2 the info necessary to do the entire job. I got a lot more out of the "end wrench" articles than Chilton ever showed. About the only thing Chilton was good for was torques (and then based on the "low" torque they gave for the crank bolt, not even that good either)

Liberty technology Co LTD in Taiwan. Says the code is for a receiver for an alarm system (suspect "keyless entry" system) Ain't the internet wonderful?

thought I hit "upload" and evidently hit "post" sorry - how do I make a thread go away?

It's hanging down from driver's side of dash. box says "CK-17 0401K7560 FCC ID M87LTC7R" (separate lines) and on the reverse side of the box "TPC" black wire just comes out with no connection - I THINK it might be an antenna for a keyless entry system and this is the control box

It's hanging down from driver's side of dash. box says "CK-17 0401K7560 FCC ID M87LTC7R" (separate lines) and on the reverse side of the box "TPC"

Oh, taking out the fans is a snap (2 electrical clips and 6 bolts, 1 hose clamp) maybe 10 minutes plus the same to put it all back. I might even be able to do it from under on the ramps (I guess another tug on the breaker won't hurt) Lost - for replacing the belt you don't need to have them exactly "on mark" - just "close enough" so you don't have to rotate the system a whole lot. I found that with the crank pulley off I could put 2 allens into the round holes in the crankshaft cogged belt drive, stick a long handled box end wrench over them and turn the engine that way to align the marks. Then since I was tossing the old belt anyway, hold the cogged drive steady and untorque both of the cam sprocket bolts (the 14mm crowfoot wrench idea mentioned elsewhere to hold the sprocket came to me later - besides, it stops any possibility of belt damage) When you INSTALL the NEW BELT you need to have them "exact". I'm thinking that the trick of holding the belt onto the drivers side cam sprocket with a tiny c clamp and a popcicle stick to protect the belt seems like a time saver (it won't change "belt position" at that point - it can't it's "locked" to the belt/pulley with that clamp). The pax side seems to be OK where it is and didn't want to move - the driver side is a bit touchier but not impossible to hold steady. I found that by looking down on the notch in the backside of the timing belt cover and using it as a sight, I could tell pretty well exactly where I was compared to where I wanted it to be (and this one lined up exactly anyway) I'm not going to go out and pull it apart to check the theory of taking the tensioner back out and then moving the driver pulley about a notch clockwise to get a bit of slack into the belt and enable easier cogged idler pulley installation, but it seems reasonable.

OK - remember noids always come with a friend (it's a "pair-a-noids") :-p I thought the whole cam was moving and I didn't want to pull it out of the head so I just reseated it. The new seal was sure "solid" :cool: The WORST thing that could happen is that I have to go back in and replace the o-ring (that I should have done first anyway)

Years ago I looked at those embossed clamps when I was in the auto industry in Detroit (I used to work for AMC). Feeling was that they were OK but cost more (so - no go) I still have a few samples (30 year old samples) that I come across sometimes and install (usually fuel line clamps) And a "metric sized adjustable hose clamp" is like an adjustable wrench (used to call them "hong-kong-fits-all")

And if you have a couple of old drive belts, you cut them to length and wrap around under the chain wrench - presto - no damage to the pulley either. (use a small piece of duct tape to hold them together)

why is it that every picture that comes from an east coast car is "rust red"? Yeah yeah - salt works wonders. BTW - when I pulled the rear long bolt on the hub, it just came right out, no problem at all - clean as a "new" one. I guess I'm lucky we only have salt water in the ocean, uh? (some vehicles driven on the beach (yes, we can drive on the beach) are rusted as much or more than east coast rust belt cars)

It's always easier to work on the engine when it is out of the car (lots easier access) - now just how easy is it to GET it out of car?

I used a pressure washer and blasted it out. Most of it came right out. Some borax or dishwasher dry soap might have helped, though, to cut thru the "gunk" that had collected over the years. Then if you have a contrasting color paint pen (I used a purple pen - yeah, it was on sale at an art store), go around and mark the hot/cold lines on the tank so they are more easily read.

Nipper - not the "wire type" that Sub sends them out the door with, though. Find a wrecking yard and gather up all the clamps you can find - usually they will just "give" them to you because they have no particular value to the yard. (literally "junk") For myself, I like the band clamps.

Well... that's an interesting story. I should have pulled the cap off the driver cam side when I had the seal out first (would have been easier to set the new seal in anyway) but I didn't. When I decided to go back in and do it, I pulled the 3 attachment bolts for the cap but the cap didn't want to move, so I pried on it a bit from the back with a screwdriver and it moved "forward". Trouble was that it seemed like it was moving the CAM with it (the seal was TIGHT and it didn't slide off the cam) so I carefully drew it back in with the bolts and left it as-is. The pax side was dry so I didn't touch it (no evidence of leakage whatever) and didn't touch either of the rears at all. yeah, I know - fix it now or fix it later. it's good for 100k now so it will do until "next time". It would be "nice" to find someone who does bearings in water pumps so I could just have it rebuilt instead of buying a whole new replacement unit. There wasn't any evidence of leakage and with a water pump the ONLY part that wears is the bearing. I probably should have used red to loctite the oil pump back plate - I used blue, so that's a possible minor point that might fail in the future - BTW - for those reading this - get a #3 phillips socket drive to do an "easier" job of loosening/tightening the oil pump plate screws. You can apply a LOT more torque with a socket than a screwdriver Skip was pretty insistent about 125 on the crank bolt torque but the local shop I asked said the book SAYS 68-78 so 75 is OK (but they usually do 85 or so) I just torqued everything to book specs. I COULD go back in and raise the torque on the crank bolt, but to do it I need to take the fans back out (not difficult, just an annoyance). Maybe in a few days after it's "settled in" and things might have "loosened" a bit I'll get to it.

Sure sounds like something is LOOSE. Check all the bolts? Look at the wheel HUBS (jack up the back and see if the wheels move when you try to jiggle them up-down and sideways) also rotate the back wheels with it up on the jack Same pitch or changes at different speeds? More pronounced one direction or the other? There is a "carrier" for the rear suspension that's BOLTED to the body. You might want to try a frame jack and see if the carrier is "loose" bolts as we.. Lots of questions...

If you have a harbor freight close, they have the 1 ton hoist on sale 3/7, 8 and 9 in the "parking lot sale" for $100

lost my mind? I lost it a long time ago <- that's what happens from working on relative's vehicles The cogged idler actually went in easier with a LONG socket on the bolt head and then "roll" the idler into sort of alignment and then make sure the socket (or alternately a socket with an extension) are essentially "straight out" from the block and that "sort of" aligns the bolt into the hole. (no sexist jokes) It's all "blind" and you only know it's in when it doesn't drop off when you release the pressure on the socket. Seems to go in easier when the belt is fully engaged onto the cogs and water pump as well. I'm thinking that IF you could hold the belt to the driver cam sprocket (I used a very small c clamp and a popcicle stick over the belt with no pressure applied to the belt just to keep it in place) and take off the tensioner, turn the pulley a "bit" to put in a tooth more slack in the belt, it should just slip right on. Then turn the cam back that tooth and put on the tensioner. the tensioner pulley is "smooth" so it shouldn't be that much of a PITA

so in my travels searching for information, I stumbled upon this gem (from Roopair in Tacoma) - there is an access hole in automatics right behind the intake manifold on the pax side right on top - gray colored rectangular plug. Pull out the plug and you have access to the flywheel teeth - put in a BIG screwdriver between the teeth, brace it against the trans housing and stop the crank rotation that way as well. They use it for installing the bolt - just on the other side of the hole (BUT - they say the "fast way" to take it off is with a breaker bar and a blanket over the radiator - put the socket over the bolt head, put the breaker bar down against the drivers side frame member and tap the starter for a couple of seconds. Spins it right off - not my style to DO it that way, but apparently it works)

I pulled seals with a small "pick" set I got from Harbor Freight. One of the picks is a 90 degree hardened steel bent end "scratch awl" (for want of a better description) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94500 either the one on the left end or right end would work pretty well (I think I used the one on the right) - pokes a hole in the rubber part of the seal, push it in a bit and then twist it to engage the "hard" part of the seal. It gives enough "power" to pull the seal (use something as a fulcrum to pry the seal out) and it's easy to avoid scratching either the bore or (in my case) the cam Sort of like the "screws" method without needing the additional prybar

if you take a 7mm allen wrench and put it into one of the holes, then use 1 of 2 breaker bars between the allen and the socket to bear against the socket, you can get the bolt loosened. I don't have a picture but this gives the idea. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8103 trouble is that this pic was one of a slightly different pulley with a "thicker" inner hub. The allen wrench(es - if you use 2 of them) want to rotate out of the holes so I wound up using a visegrip to hold the end of the allen (and needed 3 hands to hold the bar, breaker and visegrip at the same time - time to ask for "assistance") 1/4 inch extensions will FIT the hole but they aren't quite big enough to prevent coming out as torque is applied. You need something closer to the diameter of the holes in the hub to make it work better. The tighter the fit the better I thought about using a "bolt puller" with 2 bolts and nuts as well. Put the bolt-nut combo onto the puller with a couple of washers and tighten it after setting the spacing to be 2 of the holes 90 degrees apart. Put the bolt ends into the holes and a prybar between the 2 bolts and turn the big bolt. haven't tried it but I think it will work - it just needs more "room". Of course, you COULD just MAKE a tool or buy the $$$ expensive one

sorry, it's just my gruff nature. thanks - now I get to go back and tighten it up (again) - just more difficult with the fans in

I guess that's what I get for reading Chilton's - it said 75

any offhanded chance of pulling out the cam when pulling off that seal cap? It seemed like it "moved" when I tried removing it so I just tightened everything back up and left it - of course, if it DOES leak, then I will need to pull it apart again anyway. :-\

So I finally got enough good weather to do the timing belt replacement. The kit from Importexperts was complete but the main source of the leak was actually the driver's side cam seal plus the valve cover gaskets. ( I got the GERMAN timing belt - which was made in MEXICO - but it looks good and they have a good reputation) Anyway replaced it all - water pump, resealed the oil pump (the back plate WAS loose - blue loctited it), reset the tensioner, replaced all the other idler pulleys and did the crank and driver side cam seals (pax side cam seal didn't show ANY leakage, so left well enough alone). When I got into it, I found that for SOME reason, the driver side cam sprocket "pin" (they use a dowel pin as the cam sprocket to cam "key") was NOT THERE. UTTERLY beats me HOW they timed it. It's almost IMPOSSIBLE to find metric dowel pins. The kind folks at Delta Camshafts in Tacoma HAD ONE, so if you need cam work, use them - they sure came thru for me. Anyway - reassembly was simple enough EXCEPT for the cogged idler which took about 1 hour of trial and error push and twist (and shout ) Now for the "fun" part - I drained the oil and put in fresh and a new filter. Finished in the dark - started it up and ran for a minute or so and was greeted by a puddle of oil from the filter (which wasn't fully seated) - so more mess to clean up in the morning... when I take out the pressure washer and spray off the driveway . Sort of surprising that the cooling system is only about 1-1/2 gallons. I guess I'm used to 5 gallon systems After the fiasco with the "key" and getting it "timed" it sure has a lot more power and it's good for another 100,000. Too bad it's not mine