aircraft engineer

Assuming, of course, that your pads aren't worn enough to make the shriekers contact the rotors. (but you took off the discs + pads) It's probably a wheel bearing. There's not much else and you hear the sound rotating the hub with the rotor off. Time to go to a JY and get a hub/housing/bearing assy and put it on - relatively simple if you can get the pinch bolt (the long one) off. 2 strut bolts (take off last), pinch bolt, trailing arm bolt, axle nut. take it apart and put the replacement on. hour or so for the old one off/on plus 30 mins maybe for the JY pull plus gas, plus driving time...(since you pulled the rotor before, you know what to expect there)

see if you can find a nut cracker. It will save cutting them off - just split the nut and at worst they will come off with vise grips. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-general-nut-splitter-general-nut-splitter-price-25-99-4--pi-1292905.html

Loctite won't hold in the temps in the exhaust. It only goes to about 200C with a short time incursion to 235. It breaks down at hi temps

younger sister (her, not me)

you won't affect the rear alignment unless you undo the bolts on the inside (up against the DIFF) The others are not eccentric. I used a 12 ton press and was working with BALL bearings on a 97 IMP. i have to do at least ONE on mine now - 4FF was a "learning experience for me". The FORESTER the housing came off had DISCS and the IMP is DRUM, so it's not a "simple swap", but not terribly difficult. Disc to disc is the unbolt, unbolt, rebolt job with a JY housing. I DID ALL HER WORK. Disc to drum requires pulling the hub and backing plate but not the bearing itself I just lost 30 minutes of typing a step-by-step instruction listing of how to do it (so IF I find the time, I will go out and write it up in NOTEPAD and copy and PASTE it into a window) snarl...grumble...snarl

how fast - depends - IF it "is" bad, the timing will retard until the knock goes away - which just eats gas. My 97 Imp developed a CEL developing on DECEL off the freeway (and there ain't NO WAY IT WILL KNOCK ON DECEL - knock is a "loaded engine preignition" thing) - so I just got tired of the whole thing and RELOCATED the knock sensor. The 2.2 has it right under the intake manifold at the back - easy access to the 12mm head bolt. Pull the battery cable, disconnect the wire connector and go in and unscrew it (long extension, short socket - IF you want to put a new one back in where you took the old one out, pull the airbox out for access - otherwise don't bother) I relocated it to the flange to the trans (auto) where a "convenient bolt hole" just happened to be (drivers side). Problem is apparently gone The knock sensor gets brittle after it gets old and it also gets "sensitive" - or so it seems. Relocating the sensor will make it "ineffective" at sensing a knock, but if a knock isn't loud enough to hear, it isn't "bad" enough to do damage. The "key" is that it PASSES THE EMISSIONS TEST (which is the ONLY reason I was concerned about the light anyway) Sensor is $75 or so on line for the older ones, plus maybe 2 hours MAX to swap it (and that's for a non-mechanic - start to finish) The hardest part will be reaching in and starting the bolt into the top of the block since you have to work by feel

but only 1 horsepower This is me running away ->

Well, remember - the guy who tried selling the flyable car is at it again with an electric vehicle, too (Mollner...Moller?) He'll probably get farther with a CAR than a flying car As to the "chemistry" - power increases from putting "magnets around your fuel line" (about all it would do is to stop magnetic particles in the gas). Let's try the "magical additive" that when mixed with water has the ability run IC (that's "internal combustion") engines. Mystery petroleum additives that increase mileage by MORE than the energy content of the additive. BUNK - all of it. A couple of non-bunk items - Mercedes did a regenerative heat capture car that increased fuel mileage to about 75 or so (freon system boiling the fluid in both the exhaust stream and the radiator stream then powering a generator from the energy. A "6 cycle" engine design that adds "2 cycles" to the conventional 4 stroke - it injects plain "water" into the chamber at the top of the exhaust stroke and converts it to steam to extract more of the wasted heat after combustion. Couple that with the regenerative heat extraction and we MIGHT approach 60% energy efficiency. There are other techniques - BUT a "simple method" - YEAH - RIGHT!! (Those are the things people used to sell as bridges - like the BROOKLYN BRIDGE, or as a miracle cure to a terminal cancer patient). Yah gots to remember - nobody EVER managed to get the 2nd law of THERMODYNAMICS repealed YET (and never will) Thermo - You can't WIN (you can't create more energy than there was to start with - which is why "perpetual motion" machines are scams) You can't LOSE (all the energy in = all the energy out. IT ALL HAS TO ADD UP- which is the demonstration proving WHY perpetual motion machines are scams - there is an additional INPUT somewhere) YOU CAN'T EVEN BREAK EVEN (simplistically - "man neither creates nor destroys - man only increases ENTROPY*) (*ENTROPY is a "state" of energy that introduces "randomness" into energy. ANYTHING you do to a "system" increases "entropy". When you add up the energy "in" and measure the total energy "out" any "difference" is attributable to "entropy". A simple example is a pound of salt and a pound of pepper - put them into a container and shake them. In order to separate them, you must AGAIN input more energy. Mixing was the "entropy state". It's only intended as an example, not as an experiment)

watch it on your extensions of the trailing arms. they will affect the rear alignment if not identical distance from the attach pivot to the axle mounting hub. you don't want to go down the road catty-wampus

remembering that an OUNCE is about 2 THIMBLES FULL how can you MEASURE it that closely? (4 oz is 1/2 of a CUP so this would be about 2 stacked silver dollars (oops, you might not know how big a cartwheel was - try maybe 9 stacked quarters) volume anyway) Coolant goes "out" into the tank when it heats and then sucks it back in when it cools. Unless you measure in the overflow tank by DIPPING it when cold, you don't know (and even at that the volume of the dipstick will make a slight difference - meaning if you use a dipstick, don't use something like a paint stirrer because of the volume from the thivkness of the stick)

1 full turn loosening will reduce the bolt torque to "zero". The idea of doing it 1/2 turn at a time is to reduce the possible warpage on the head. I will say that the "old" way of doing head gaskets (not Sub and NOT ALUMINUM heads) was to go back and loosen each bolt 1/2 turn and retorque to full torque, start the motor and run it for a while to heat up then go in and torque them AGAIN to full torque We don't loosen bolts in aircraft - they get torqued ONCE and that's it. (but they don't have compressible pieces in them either - like the HG)

The cheap meters from Harbor Freight will do 10A and are on sale for $3. IF you are drawing 10A you have bigger problems

I had a prob like that with a Mitsu Montero - the trans was losing the main bearings. Ate 2 sets of bearings until I replaced all the gears PLUS the bearings (glad I was having work done at a local Comm College shop)

depending on how long the light is (I drive some routes where I KNOW the approx time the light will be red) I just stick it in N and turn off the IGN. Restart takes less gas than idle - the break point is about 30 secs

I think I have said before that a "torque wrench" is a substitute for "turn of the bolt" bolt load measurement. The intention is to have a specific, uniform clamp up bolt stretch. Torque is a secondary measurement of that (and a lot easier to measure, too). It is based on a calculated amount and then measured to get the "actual bolt stretch" (based on the angle of the threads and the material characteristics) "Turn of the screw" is actually always better but it is based on a "very low friction" threaded connection. remember - in reality, that friction can cause torque wind-up in the bolt itself - a line drawn down the bolt will start to "spiral" because the bolt itself is twisting rather than stretching. <bell rings> I have a twisted sense of humor. OK - class over.

no - unless there's something "different" about Sub ATs - the issue is that without the engine running, the pump isn't "pumping". It used to be that there were a front pump and a rear pump - it was why you could "push start" an car with an auto (like the old Chev powerslide). No more rear pump - so no lube if the trans is turning in gear OR IN NEUTRAL (which is how a lot of ATs get fried - flat towing in NEUTRAL). With the engine running, it doesn't "care" - oil flows thru the system just fine. Can't hurt it coasting in neutral with the engine running

She tried the "old" key I think - or maybe she left it with me and I need to send it down to her. Now if I can just find it... the "new" key was actually "chunked" (shear cutter) from a blank - he "cut" it based on the code for the original (no key follower machine) so it was a "full cut virgin" identical to the original factory cut key. Evidently not much more of a problem - she hasn't called me today, anyway Interesting thing BTW - Sub keys use roughly the same blank as Nissan (don't know which Nissan, but the keys I had made in Thailand were all done on Nissan blanks - the only thing was that on the first 2, the cutter didn't shorten the blank to make up for the "shorter" Sub key length - it sticks out of the cyl about 1/4 inch more. The second guy cut the length down - keys there cost 60 cents - $1.50 more with plastic handles so 20B versus 70B at 32B/$) not able to remove key - YES = the "backdrive" between the trans shift lever/handle and the "remove key" detent is probably broken or out of adjustment. There should be a way to get in and examine the column and see if the "lock rod" is moving. Since I'm not very savvy on Sub mechanisms, I'm going off old 'Murcan experiences. Once the key is "on" it allows the cylinder to rotate (no stops) - as long as it moves "on", your problem is likely in that backdrive. Check the cable linkage between the shift lever and the steering column - you might have to pull a few things off to get at it and see it. Someone else can turn the key while you sit there with a flashlight and "look"

I'm not too familiar with the Sub trans - but what you are describing is that the shifter linkage came loose in 5th gear and stayed there. (doesn't "shift" - the shift lever moves but the trans doesn't physically "shift") I seem to remember from pictures that this trans is a 2 rod - one pivots (selects the gear cluster fork to move) and the other slides in/out (engage the gear). The in/out rod isn't moving or inside the trans the rod shift fork has come off the rod - that's my guess anyway

It's my sister's car - in PHX, temps about 100F+ It's a 97 Impreza, keys cut from pattern (locksmith "read" the key code off the original) Unlocks doors, sometimes turns in the ignition, sometimes not. It's doesn't seem to be the locking sprag in the steering column - turning to neither side seems to free up the key to turn. (flat driveway/carport) Seems happen when it's "HOT!!" (as if there's any time in PHX this time of year when it's NOT) Any ideas out there? It's been lubed into the cylinder. IF I took a can of my "quik-freeze" for circuit boards down there I could freeze the cylinder from the inside out and see if cooling it makes a difference All of this is hearsay from her and I'm posting it because I have the hi-speed net line.

25 freaking dollars each for a PLUG? Just buy the NGK I SERIOUSLY doubt that with the lost spark type of ignition that they are EFFECTIVE (maybe, just maybe, with a conventional single coil system it would make a difference)

pick a 5w-30 and keep it changed every 3500 miles or so including filter and you won't need to worry about "oil" Do 3000 if it's dusty or you don't drive very far every day (and IF you do drive "far", you have more money than I do ) Clean oil is more important than hi-mileage oil. If you are in the "hot" climates, you might consider 10-40

silicone grease (auto parts store in those tiny disposable packets) - put on a light coat. "heavy" won't make any difference - what comes out when you put the sliders together, wipe off.

Unfortunately, no - the cross bars are screwed in place and don't move and there doesn't appear to be any access to the nuts from the topside whatever. I have a dodge caravan that has adjustable crossbars - pull the lever, move the bar, push down the lever and it's done. THIS isn't quite as "simple". I have thought about taking off the lengthwise rails, too, but can't figure out how to get them off either.

Easy way to check the fans themselves - use a battery charger to drive the fans with the engine off. Then all you will hear is the fan, only the fan If you can, find a JY car and cut off one of the fan plugs and put on terminals so you can attach the charger clips. Plug in one at a time and let run for a minute or 2 and see what "squeaks". You could do it with 2 insulated alligator clips, too, instead of the wire clip. I have no idea if anything "bad" happens if the fan runs backwards. If it does, just reverse the connections

Try jumping the solenoid directly with a power wire from the battery. IF that makes the starter go, your problem is in the line to the solenoid. I'm not all that familiar with the starter circuit wiring - look at what others have posted. IF you have a high resistance in the solenoid supply circuit (the way to test is to hook up the voltmeter at the solenoid input terminal (not the power terminal) and see what voltage gets to the solenoid) you won't get power to the solenoid. Trouble is that you indicate that it's a problem "warm" - usually these issues are "cold" (hi resistance, that is) You said that after you cleaned the battery terminals, the problem became intermittent. Check all of the connections and clean them if you have access. Wire brush+clean metal=good contact (and make sure they are tight - warm connections loosen because the metal expands) Even clean the battery cable connection to the starter and any connection in between, too