
aircraft engineer
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Everything posted by aircraft engineer
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figure 225k or so is a good time to consider it. From a purely practical standpoint, buy the kit and keep it in reserve. if nothing else IF you decide to sell the car, it's another bargaining chip and you would have all the parts if you needed any in the meantime (yes, it takes a small amount of storage - about 1/2 cubic foot or so and there's the money outlay, too - but prices just keep going up on parts) I'm probably going to get a kit for my IMP and have it on-hand.
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might be preaching to the choir here - new rotors? did you back off the parking brake star wheel and then adjust it just like drum brakes? Any chance you mixed up the star wheel and put it in backwards? Or swapped left and right (if you did both sides at once) It's why the digital camera comes in so handy on vehicles I work on the first time or "infrequently" - reference pix to show what it looked like when it worked before I got involved.
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a whole kit with water pump, tensioner/w pulley (the 1 bolt), all 3 other idler pulleys, valve cover seals, cam seals, crank oil seal and belt is about $300 plus 12 shipping or so (ask for the Contitech belt (German, made in Mexico), though - I don't have a lot of faith in the Chinese belt that comes with the PCI kit as standard issue. - but maybe that's just "me" - some here want ONLY SUB OEM timing belts) theimportexperts.com do it all at once and then just sit back and drive another 100k or so The comment got made before that when California required a 100k mile interval on emission equipment (the belt is considered part of the system) Sub just said "OK" and lengthened the service interval to 105k. (I suspect that they actually gave up their probably 100% cushion for "people who don't get things fixed on time" and that 60k interval could really go 120 before the belt would be "worrisome" - it's not like the belt would "break" at 61k, BTW)
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trouble is that that using an impact requires full access to the bolt head and most impacts are too long to fit in the opening between the pulley and the back of radiator or condenser. (or at least that's what I found) interestingly, shoving a couple of bolts the right diameters into the holes in the damper and using a pry bar to brace against them and stop the crank from rotating worked well, too. Well enough to get the 100ft-lbs for tightening the bolt anyway. from what I've seen, the "newer" damper with the flat face rather than the dished in would be a LOT easier to get off that way.
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I haven't seen any "normal" duty car differential hypoids that have the pressure levels that would require anything approaching the EP (extreme pressure) loads of some power devices. In fact, engine oil was the (manual) trans lubricant on the Mini years ago - did a complete oil and trans oil change with the engine oil. the engine sump was the trans case as well. I seem to remember those being "spur" gears in the final drive, though, which is a different animal compared to hypoids. The point being that for your "garden variety Subaru", the 75W or 80W question or the "synthetic" vs "mineral" oil question might make a difference way out in the service lifetime. For "normal" operations it's so far down in the significance factors as to be negligible. Notice (interestingly) that the EP additive percentages for syns are higher than for mineral. I guess I might bend one of the lubricant experts ears tomorrow if I remember. One I know has for sure forgotten more than I remember.
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maybe if running in good condition - as-is maybe 1500 to 2k depending on exterior. You might get more from someone who doesn't know much about Subs. Brakes are cheap maybe 150 depending on what needs replaced (how many rotors) But the seals/timing belt/water pump parts will be up to $300 or so and maybe 4 hours to pull it down and put it back (for those who turn their own wrenches) Plugs, filters, etc etc No sense pulling it down without doing the whole job AT ONCE (brakes are "anytime")
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The difference is that the syn oil starts with a lower initial viscosity (75) which increases as the temperature increases (without looking up the spec I can't tell you what the changeover temps are) to 90. The 80 conventional oil does the same but starts "thicker" (80 compared to 75) It REALLY doesn't make that much difference because they are not under pressure - it's all "splash". Aside from the hypoid gear faces, nothing in there is under that much contact pressure (and the side bearings don't "care" as long as they have some lube). It's EXTREMELY unlikely that you could do any damage to the system by using 75 in place of 90. (Beats me HOW you could hurt it, anyway) PHYSICALLY - the 2 perform about the same except that the syn oil would be better in very low temps (like Alaska in the winter - where the non-syn oil might act like toothpaste, the syn will act like honey) IF it were for an engine, then it matters a lot more because of starting lubrication, but then we might be talking about, say, Phoenix in the summer where the temp doesn't drop below 100F at MIDNIGHT. They tend to go to 10W-30 or 40 in the summer months there even for 5W-30 or 5W-20 engines. I would BET that the oil for their new DIESEL isn't 5W-30 though, just based on what I know about oil. Remember - SUB set up their specs with what they had available from whatever manufacturer and are interested in maintaining the LEAST possible spread of components ("lean" inventory). What they spec is what they sell, what they sell is what they spec. "One size fits 'US' - all of us" ("us" means "Subs' - 1 material in the factory, 1 material in the shops - less chance of errors)
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Look at the picture on the title page of the endwrench article - it's the largest picture there. The arrow on the cam sprocket points to the RIGHt (clockwise maybe 30 degrees or so) but look at the CRANK cogged gear - the KEYWAY NOTCH IS DOWN!! BOTH CAM SPROCKETS ARE IDENTICAL IN POSITION - the LINE FOR THE TIMING MARK (barely visible ) is on the sprocket RIM (NOT THE ARROW ON THE SPROCKET SPOKE) and difficult to see in this picture MARK IT WELL SO YOU CAN SEE IT - nail polish, paint marker, white-out, whatever. MARK BOTH SIDES OF THE NOTCH, TOO - IT HELPS SEE IT. With the crank gear keyway DOWN (as shown in the picture), the TAB on the GEAR is pointing DIRECTLY at the sensor (to the right of the word 'Single" in RED in the picture). THAT IS THE CRANK TIMING MARK and has a line on it!! The barely visible white mark on the bottom of the sensor housing just above the TAB is the actual "set it to this" timing mark. It isn't too clear in this pic but you will see it - besides, it's right in the middle of the line you would get if you split crank pulley. IF those 3 marks are all in position at the same time, the engine is in time and the marks will line up every second crank revolution. (and IF you look at the crank sensor on the FIRST revolution, there will also be a tab lined up as well BUT NOT THE CORRECT TAB - THE ENGINE WILL BE 180 DEGREES OUT IF YOU USED THAT TAB. THE CRITICAL THING IS THAT FOR TIMING, THERE ARE 2 TABS LOCATED CLOSE TO EACH OTHER, MAYBE 30 DEGREES APART NOT 90 DEGREES)
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crank keyway DOWN (the timing mark will be the nub on the backside of the crank cogged drive that's UP - it has a mark on it) cam sprockets LINE matched to NOTCH on timing belt cover (BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME) . Lines on belt matched to the timing marks (makes it easier) no compression on the same side - you have a cam out of time. IF TIMING IS CORRECT BY THE BELT - No spark - either the cam sensor or the crank sensor is disconnected (or both) All bets are off if the engine is interference - likely bent a valve or 2 or 3 or 4 The long winded version is in here - how to do it with references http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88141 each 2 revolutions of the crank the marks will all THREE line up EVERY TWO!! - IT HAS TO BE THAT WAY - TWO!!
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Those "special tools" are shown in the articles down at the bottom of this post You don't really NEED the pin wrench to hold the crank pulley to undo the bolt. Pull out the fans and cover the back of the rad with an old pillow. Then put a long breaker bar with a 22mm (might be 21) short socket over the bolt and brace the bar against the front frame horn. Hit the starter for about 2 seconds and it is "loosened". IF you use the chain wrench method to hold the crank pulley, find an old drive belt (not the timing belt - the AC or PS/ALT belt) and cut it to fit over the crank grooved pulley. Then when you tighten the chain, you won't hurt the grooves on the drive pulley. You need to tighten the crank bolt to about 100ft-lbs or more to about 120 or so. The chain wrench will dig into the grooves and "hurt" the pulley - you will eat belts rather "quickly". Since you are tossing the old timing belt anyway, there are "holes" in the crank drive cogged pulley that you can put in a couple of allen wrenches and use a box end wrench over 1 and brace against the other to stop the crank from turning and thus the timing belt from moving. Cam sprocket bolts come right off. I used a "trick" with a crowfoot wrench and a drive handle to hold the sprocket from turning to TIGHTEN the cam sprocket bolts when I put them back on - it would have worked to take them off as well. Pulling the oil pump is the EASIEST way to replace the crank seal and you can loctite (use RED if you have it) and tighten the oil pump screws at the same time (some come loose after use) - remember to get a tube of Permatex anaerobic sealant to seal the oil pump back to the block. Cam seals are "easier" - pull the driver's side mount entirely, remove/replace the seal and replace the o-ring between the housing and the head when you re-install the housing. Pax side is more "difficult" - you will need to "pick it out" - a small pick set http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94500 works well - Don't scratch the inside of the housing or the cam seal face though. Driver's side sprocket has the lobes for the cam sensor and IF you take off the sensor, you will need to remove it BEFORE you pull the seal housing. Seating the seals is easily done with a 1-1/4 inch plastic PVC pipe cap as a "driver". Tap on the plastic cap and seat the seal to the same depth it was when you took it out. Oil pump seal seats to the bottom of the "groove" (all the way in) Pax side cam seal isn't difficult but there isn't much room to "hammer" on the cap - be careful - the radiator is right there. Remember to use the correct marks for timing and set them up before taking off the pieces. A bit of paint/nail polish/whiteout (etc) will help you see where the marks are. CRANK KEYWAY IS DOWN when the system is "in time" so it's a quick way to start. Replace the timing belt bearing pulleys at the same (2 "flat", 1 "cogged', 1 on the tensioner) as well as the water pump (yeah, it probably is still working OK but IF you do it now it will likely go the life of the timing belt) Reset the tensioner (careful, it takes a bit of time so that you don't damage the tensioner itself), put on the belt and then "just put it all back together" See the "endwrench" article winter 2001 but be careful - it shows mostly the PHASE 1 engine - you have PHASE 2 - the tensioner is DIFFERENT. 2.2 and 2.5 are the "same" as far as the timing belt stuff. http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf <--this one has the "rest of it" probably more info than you wanted.
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HOW TO INSTALL A "NORMAL" (REPLACEABLE) U-JOINT - "normal" U-joints are held into the hoops with c-clips inside the bands remove the c-clips, put a small socket wrench on the end "pressing in", a big enough socket wrench on the end "being pressed out" and compress the joint with a suitable vise (or hydraulic press if you have one) The bearing cup being pressed out pops off into the inside of the bigger socket. Now put a small enough socket on the u-joint cross end and the large socket on the other end and press out the cup you just pressed "in" and remove it. Do the other 2 cups and you can get the cross "out". you now have 2 pieces of driveshaft (plus a used u-joint to discard). (Disassembly finished) Installation isn't tricky - just needs to be precise and is "sort of" the reverse of disassembly. Start by putting in the cross in between the hoops then put 1 bearing cup in place, put the cross into the cup and then press the cup into the hoop. Put on the C-clip. Now put the other cup in place and partly push the cross out of the cup just installed and onto the cup to be installed. (it's a guide at this point) Press the cup into the hoop and install the C-clip. Repeat for the other 2 cups. IF the cup isn't flush with the edge of the hoop (Sub cups are below the edge in order to make the "clenches"), you would need to press it in until the c-clip groove clears the hoop. Once the clips are installed, it's seated and ready to go. Lube it and install the shaft (or install then lube - no difference.) Some other installations use band bolts and nuts to hold the u-joint to the differential. Those are just a matter of making sure the cups are fully seated before tightening the nuts.
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Thing is that it detects the knock by a vibration frequency converting to a piezoelectric output. It MIGHT not make a difference where it is now, but I have to admit that the Japanese are somewhat anal about making things work "just so" and it might not pick up. I know that I've been having the occasional "knock sensor" code out of mine and I guess I need to go get another one (auto parts store - $115) I can't "hear" any knock sound but it might be there - either that or a bad connection to make a bolt stick in a socket, try a small piece of electrical tape inside the socket and push the bolt in to hold it there. When you pull the socket off 1 of 2 things will happen - the socket will pull off the bolt (what you want) or the socket will pull off the extension (and then you will need to go fishing with a pair of long nose pliers.)
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ah yes - the flushing brake fluid question. About the only thing that can actually happen to the fluid (aside from particulate contamination) is that it absorbs water. Water will make some of the other components deteriorate a bit faster (like the seals) and the result of that deterioration is what you see in the dirty fluid that you pump out from the cylinders/calipers when you bleed them. Some of the older DOT1 fluids would get hot enough to boil. The silicones are not prone to that AT ALL. What I used to see in brake testing were temps about 500F or so in fully faded systems (pads) with fluid temps of maybe 250 or so max (it's been almost 30 years and I can't remember exactly, but that's what comes to mind.) We ran 25 cycles of the Pennsylvania brake route (near Johnstown) and then tore the systems down for examination. Since it was hiway testing, we didn't do full fades except on the TRACK. The whole system got rebuilt, fluid and all - but we never did tests on the fluid and it was "clean" - hard to get new fluid dirty, even with 300 miles of "heavy duty"testing operation Now, as to swapping the fluid - it makes sense depending on service. Older vehicles with hi miles, makes sense. Makes sense for vehicles driven in stop and go after maybe 2 brake pad changes (do it as part of the third change) just to flush out the gunk. It's EASY enough (but without one of the power bleeders it takes 2 people - 1 to do the pumping and 1 to work the bleeders) and not expensive, just a bit "messy" unless you use the "hose and bottle" method - put a hose down into a bottle partly filled with fluid and bleed it into the bottle - keeps the air out as well. IF you suck out the old fluid in the reservoir to start with (using the "turkey baster" technique) you would need maybe 1 bottle or no mare than a QUART max. to flush and bleed the whole system. Oh, and YES - changing PS fluid is a PURE profit item. It's a closed system, just runs around in a circle, and unless it gets dirt in it or leaks, there is NO NEED TO EVER CHANGE THE FLUID unless the pump started breaking down. (Even running in oil, they CAN deteriorate)
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Newly assembled - did you check the sprockets to see if they had both the pickup lobes for the drivers side, plain for the pax side PLUS were there dowel pin keys in the sprockets behind the BOLTS? hate to say this but you might need to pull the belt back off and pull the sprockets and look at them. the dragon had a dowel pin missing on the driver's side and I'm surprised it RAN at all - I'm pretty sure they just lined it up and torqued he!! out of it onto the cam and called it good. Timing belt positions appear to be OK even if you didn't put the lines notches/timing marks - appears to be 6 belt cogs between the "where it is" and the "lines" Can't understand "no compression" though - ALL cyls? Sure doesn't make sense unless the valves are bent or something else catastrophic. The timing looks OK I guess the bigger question was if it was running when it made it to the JY
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Old sign at Shakey's Pizza "We have an agreement with the bank - we won't cash checks and they won't make pizza!" Actually, I could be a mechanic - I used to do all my own work on my plane, too. Just never bothered to get the A&P license. And upon getting older, I'm less inclined to get my hands REALLY dirty (as in up to my elbows in GREASE!!) unless I want to do it (but what the heck offsetting $100/hour seems like good enough pay to me) :-p have to find some excuse to keep buying these TOOLS
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Most of the oil additives are combinations of zinc dithiophosphate plus some other things. (Think STP plus a bit of other "stuff") GENERALLY, it falls into 2 categories - adding "more" to what's in the oil currently - or - trying to make up for missed maintenance that has maybe caused "other" problems. Usually, it won't "hurt" but it doesn't necessarily "help" either. Your money - 3000 to 4000 mile oil changes will give you the same peace of mind. You could always dump in a bottle of Slick and try to cover all the bases at the same time
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That's why I went to 1/4 turn replacements from Home Depot (I can DO it, I'm just "lazy" - too lazy to replace faucet washers - go find the master shut off - yup, know it well - BOTH of them - inside the garage and outside the house as well at the meter) Yeah, understand - you were inside the hose bib replacing the washers. With your stated level of "mechanicism" you're lucky the whole house didn't float away. $390 was "cheap" Oh- by the way - even the mechanically inclined among us can do "things" to themselves - I once stapled my hand to the roof when laying new shingles with a staple gun. Went thru the web between the thumb and index finger. Lucky I had a pair of snips with me to cut the staple. Or removing exhaust system under the car on a creeper. Whacking a bolt toward me with a small sledge, missed and hit myself right between the eyes (broke my glasses in 2 at the bridge - art least I under the face shield so no "lasting damage" - "gee what pretty stars - and it's only 3pm")