mkoch
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Posts posted by mkoch
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If it looks to good to be true, it is probably a carb rebuild kit for a Toyota.
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Um.. so you're saying this isn't an exhaust kit, but instead is a carb rebuild kit? Did I miss something?
Well, they sent me a carb rebuild kit, not an exhaust kit. I did order from the link in the original post. Walker product #15671 is a carb rebuild kit, not an exhaust y pipe. It looks like somebody entered some incorrect information on the autoplicity web site.
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I received mine... it is really a carb rebuild kit, like this sold by another company.
Amazon's version of "15671" is better! http://a.co/1mEcmlM
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Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts.
Repair, or replace?
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Sorry about the "no text" in the message. I had a heck of a time making the image appear. "That file extension is not allowed in this community"
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You do not need that. Looks like a packaging mistake.
GD
Thank you!
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3772-pilot-bearing-included-in-clutch-kit/
This pilot bearing was included in my clutch kit for my 1984 GL 4wd . . I did not take a part off the car like this... that I know of!
The outside diameter is 16mm. Does the 1984 4wd GL use this bearing? I do not want to complete the engine installation, and then find that this should have been included in the assembly.
Do I need it? More importantly, does my car need it?
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Doing a little to add to the body of knowledge... A short video on how to derermine when the rocker arm stops moving during the adjustment process.
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I found the instructions, and posted them in another thread, for ease in searching.
Thank you , all!!
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3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter1. ReplacementThe hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows:1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses2. Revove the valve rocker cover.3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod.4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand.5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane.6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan.7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal.
Fig. 3-45 A5-6788. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order.2. Adjustment1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)].2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary.3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures:a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences.Sequence (I) --------------------Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder.Sequence (II)----------------Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder.b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000.
Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns>c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes.
Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.>d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point".
Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually>e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns
Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns>f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer.
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Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
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We’re you adjusting for a reason, or issue?
Is it still running properly after your adjustment?
Get the FSM for EA81s and look at the valve adjustment procedure. Search? I’m guessing it’s been done before?
No issue.
Well, the engine was out (it still is out), and it was easy, plus my had not yet reached my daily quota of "stupid".
Also, the "Keep Your Subaru Alive!" book told me to do it. Ya gotta do what the book says.
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How much did you adjust them? Yeah that probably wasnt the best idea. Did you adjust them in or out? did you follow any adjustment procedure at all, or did you just start turning the nut?
I followed the adjustment procedure in "Keep Your Subaru Alive" , bent the retaining clip, loosened the lock nut, the turned the square ended bolt. 3 I adjusted "in" , one, I adjusted "out"
It was very, very difficult to adjust to specific measurement, 0.010" was tight, 0.012" was a bit tighter 0.014" was tighter, but could still be wedged in.
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It is an EA81, not the original engine. There are bent pieces of metal to prevent the set nut on the valve adjustment bolt from being moved. I messed with #1 valves, and #3 valves. I don't know how to un-mess them. edit: bad decision, I know. I had the valve cover off, and the spirit of "why not" took over. Thanks for the help, though, 2 and 4 will remain untouched. mkoch
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3765-ea81-do-not-adjust-valves-sticker/ A sticker on my valve cover says "Don'd Adjust Valve Clearance". The engine is at 160,000 miles. What should I do?
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I bought the rebuilt kit for the oil pump. It has four o rings.
I was unable to remove the two phillips head screws on the pump.
Am I correct in saying I will be able to use only two of the o rings?
Also, I am guessing that the thicker small o ring goes in the hole pictured.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/weimadog/EA81_oil_pump_o_rings_zpsn2hxgi2h.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/weimadog/EA81_oil_pump_only_rings_zpsbsgz9jnj.jpg
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I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump.
"Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump.
The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action?
Hopefully, picture below
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Gloyale,
"smell is the tell tale."
Thank you. I did not think to use the "smell" sense to solve this.
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It is hard to say whether the oil is gear oil or engine oil.
Both the gear and engine oil are translucent , similar to honey, so no clue there. The oil and the bell housing next with dirt and became black.
The oil was all over, except for the forward most part of the flywheel, indicating that maybe it was the orange flat o ring behind the crank which failed.
The oil was not so viscous, indicating was engine oil, but there was a lot of it to the rear near the transmission, indicating it was was gear oil. It's hard to know what to think about this.
I do know that pulling the transmission and splitting the case would be a lot of work, so I'm trying to find a way around that!
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Aha, thank you Gloyale.
Another question, how likely is a leak from this location? Where would it leak from? Would it be the place where the shaft comes from the input shaft holder, or from the input shaft holder/ transmission casing gasket (held by three bolts)?
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The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver.
Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here?
edit: the video may be upside down.
UUUuuummmmm... SUPER cheap EA81 Y-pipes!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Been there, done that. 'wish I had just cut off the nut. The threads on the stud can be cleaned up with a thread die. If you ruined the threads in the block, you can always go up a size and re-tap the hole for a bigger stud. There is a recent thread on this site with how-to.