mkoch

I have a Weber carburetor kit. The recommended fuel pressure regulator has a part number of 31800.063 . Is this a good one to go with?

Not my car, not my area. I'm surprised it would get stolen. http://westseattleblog.com/2011/04/west-seattle-crime-watch-car-theft-car-prowlers-robbery-pleas

Here is a picture of one: There is a light in the switch unit. The lower terminal and the terminal on our right (top) one show a closed circuit when I test it, with the switch in in or out position. This must go to the light. The terminal on our left (upper) an open circuit with the lower terminal when the switch is out, and a closed circuit with the lower one when the switch is in. You could do this with a regular on/off switch. <humor on> As you can see, the switch is as big around as a soda can. mkoch

I have an '84 GL 4wd wagon, and I want to replace the stock Hitachi with a Weber, manual choke. I have found a few relevant threads on USMB, but no detailed "how-to". My plan is to call CARBS UNLIMITED INC. [url=http://www.carburetion.com][/url]http://www.carburetion.com , and ask them about what I need. I'm just jumping in this with all four feet, and I'd appreciate any advice.

...sigh... yes... I should have checked that instead of just looking at the thing. The only reason I saw the dust was my son wanted to know what a "rotor arm" was. He read about it in a book. I showed him the one on the Subaru. Thanks for the response. It looks like I'll have to buy a whole new distributor.

Like the title says. The color in the picture is close to what it really is. The car runs. Does anybody know what causes this? mkoch

I installed a new starter this night. I applied rust converter to the battery hold-down bracket.

My starter will turn over the engine about 70% of times I try to start the car. 30% of the time, I can hear the starter solenoid click, but the motor doesn't turn. The brushes look good. I wonder why there are gouges on the armature. *click on the above image to see the video* This is a video of my testing the starter, by applying electrical current to the positive battery terminal, and the ignition wire terminal. The solenoid will move out, but the motor doesn't turn it some of the time. *click on the above image to see the video* This video features a mystery wire coming off the Positive Battery Terminal on the starter. The starter will operate with or without the mystery wire attached. Is this OEM wiring? Thanks for any answers!

Symptoms: About 30% of the time while cranking the engine, the engine will turn slightly, then stop (as if the battery is not providing enough current). After I repeat this process about six times, the engine will turn over and start. About 70% of the time, the engine will start on the first try, no problem. The battery test at Autozone indicates that the battery is good. I also run that battery in another car, with no problems. I'd like to solve this. Where to start?

I need a new battery, and I'd like to know what battery sizes fit the 1984 GL 4WD wagon.

Why I want to do this: I plan to remove the differential, and have it's seals replaced, as well as: new rear axles I don't know how long it will take to get these parts, and I just wanted to drive the car around during the wait. Thanks for the advice. I'll just let the car sit for a couple more weeks. mkoch

Like the title says, I wonder if I can remove the drive shaft, rear differential, rear axles, and drive down the road. From what I've observed on the car, there's no reason I shouldn't do this. Is there anything I missed that would make the removal of these parts a problem?

My 1984 1600 & 1800 Parts Catalog by Subaru has in figure 220-1 Front Bearing and Oil Seal Kit 6999 01010 The spacer is 7232 38000 Have fun!

I am replacing a rear inner arm on an '84 GL Wagon. I posted a couple weeks ago about this, thanks for the advice! I bought an inner arm from Aaron's Subaru. I replaced the wheel bearings and seals on one side (other side to follow) Since I have stuff dis-assembled back there, I want to replace what's easy to replace, as a preventative measure. I'd like to replace the shocks. Are there any sort of shocks I should look for, or avoid? I also want to replace the differential seals, and the brake hoses. Am I missing anything obvious?

I bent my rear inner suspension arm on my 1984 4wd wagon. My project is to replace it. I bought a used inner arm, and new bearings and seals. I removed the brake components, leaving the spindle. The spindle has a lot of play, or wobble, in it. Is this normal? The Keep Your Subaru Alive! book mentions that special tools and expertise is needed to replace the bearings. Is this something that only the dealer can do, or can auto shops typically do this?

I found these on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120521805376&_trksid=p2759.l1259 Here is a picture of them Any opinions on these?

My '84 GL needs to have the outer headlights (there are 4 of them) replaced. Presently they are Sylvania 2A1 Sealed type. Are there any better headlight types I can order?

Specifically, 1984 GL 4wd wagon, for the Right, (passenger) side rear Inner arm assembly 7210 70020 Outer arm assembly 7210 70400 Spindle 7232 28020 Are the suspension components the same on the 1980 through '84 4wds? I guess I'll also need the bearings, and axles, but I have an idea where to get those.

I am in Missouri, where there just are not very many 2nd generation Subarus on the road, or in the parts yards. I need a recommendation for a parts yard that will ship rear suspension components. Thanks for any advice!

1984 GL Wagon, new front brake pads, new rotors, adjusted the parking brake. I need to put new carpet in. I'll save that for warmer weather! mkoch

rxleone, the book does say "PBC" [sic]. . Thanks for the reply! mkoch

I am replacing the front pads and rotors on my 1984 GL 4WD wagon. I am following the instructions in How To Keep Your 72 thru 84 Subaru Alive, by Larry Owens. The instructions call for "PBC" grease to lubricate the pad springs, and "Silicone" grease to lubricate the pivot pin. I could not find these products at my local auto parts store. I have Master Pro Hi-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing grease, NLGI No. 2 and Multi Purpose Lithium Grease Are these sorts of grease an acceptable substitute for the PBC and Silicone grease? mkoch

After I posted, I added difluoroethane (Blow Off brand, canned propellant) to the cold-chisel attack. That Blow Off stuff is cold!. It took about a minute to chill the split cone, then it came off. No puller needed! Sorry for the needless question.

(edited to say, problem solved) Greetings all, Here is a photo of my replace-the-rotors project. The photo is of the passenger side front axle, and split center piece. My problem is, the split center piece just won't come out. I've tried the hammer/cold chisel around the perimeter method. It is still stuck. Does the split center piece have to come out before I use the drum puller? I don't want to use the drum puller (disc puller in this case) if that will only force the cone tighter.

Your GL looks a lot like mine! I am replacing the rotors, and axles on mine. The axles have been going "tick tick" for over a year.