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mkoch

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Everything posted by mkoch

  1. It is hard to say whether the oil is gear oil or engine oil. Both the gear and engine oil are translucent , similar to honey, so no clue there. The oil and the bell housing next with dirt and became black. The oil was all over, except for the forward most part of the flywheel, indicating that maybe it was the orange flat o ring behind the crank which failed. The oil was not so viscous, indicating was engine oil, but there was a lot of it to the rear near the transmission, indicating it was was gear oil. It's hard to know what to think about this. I do know that pulling the transmission and splitting the case would be a lot of work, so I'm trying to find a way around that!
  2. Aha, thank you Gloyale. Another question, how likely is a leak from this location? Where would it leak from? Would it be the place where the shaft comes from the input shaft holder, or from the input shaft holder/ transmission casing gasket (held by three bolts)?
  3. The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
  4. Here is a video: The new and old clutch plates do not look the same. Will this be a problem? mkoch
  5. Thank you, Gloyale! jono, how can I measure the crank case pressure?
  6. The videos.... 22 and 24 seconds I am trying to fix an oil leak at the rear min seal, but it looks like the larger ring isn't the thing that is leaking. It looks like an inner, orange ring is leaking, and that is not a part of the clutch replacement kit What is the name of the orange rubbery part? I think I need to replace it, because it looks like that's the only place the oil could've come from. Suggestions?
  7. The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
  8. That fussy little 3 bend hose which goes on top of the engine, available at Partsgeek! Also, the oil pump seal kit. https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/subaru/gl/climate_control/heater_hose.html?brand=gates Thank you for the advice!
  9. Oh, and the clutch was slipping. I thought it was a worn clutch
  10. Thank you Sapper157! Where should I buy the small coolant hoses, graphite gasket material, valve cover gaskets? Also, I have not been able to find the valve adjustment tool for the EA81.
  11. I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow. I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?
  12. Here is a photo of an exhaust manifold stud which I removed. There is aluminum stuck to about five turns of the thread, at the end. What should I replace the studs with? The pitch is m10 1.25. Should I tap the holes at 1.25, or drill them out and go larger? Mkoch
  13. I will check it again. I am having trouble at both ends of the clutch travel. The clutch will slip when my foot is off the clutch pedal The transmission will resist going into gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed. mkoch
  14. Rock Auto has a few choices... Is this a good one? http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=334557&cc=1268344&jsn=508&jsn=508&jsn=508
  15. Thank you for the response. The one I have now is a 1984 nom turbo 4wd wagon. The old one was a 1981 nom turbo 4wd wagon. Is there a vendor for the clutch kit which is better than others? Edited, is ti likely I will need a new flywheel?
  16. More on the symptoms.... I can make the clutch slip without touching the clutch pedal, at full throttle, 2500 rpm. It does not slip (foot off clutch pedal) at 4,000 rpm. With the clutch pedal all the way in, the transmission will hardly go into gear. It is a struggle to push the stick forward when at a stop, putting it into 1st gear. So, it looks like I can't solve this by adjusting the clutch cable, it seems to me to be a worn clutch. Opinion?
  17. I may need to replace my clutch plate soon. The clutch would disengage barely enough with the clutch pedal to the floor. I adjusted the clutch cable so it is now possible to press the clutch pedal to he floor put the transmission into reverse without hearing the clashing of gears, but... accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, it looks like the clutch slips. The RPM rise at full throttle without the expected corresponding acceleration. I last did this job on a Gen 2 Subaru in 1989! I think I can do it again. Please, I would like advice on... Where to buy parts, including the insert to position the clutch plate What other jobs should I do on the engine, as it will be out of the car, and easy to work on? mkoch
  18. BEECHBM69, I can't find OEM online! https://www.subaruparts.com/auto-parts/1984/subaru/gl/base-trim/1-8l-h4-gas-engine/clutch-cat/clutch-and-flywheel-scat
  19. Rock Auto sells about three lengths of clutch cable. What is the correct length for 1984 4wd gl wagon? mkoch
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