Caboobaroo

sounds like an accellerator pump issue to me. Pretty easy to get to. Remove the air cleaner, then remove the top portion of the carb (should be like 6 small screws) and once removed, it'll be a "pump" that pumps fuel into the barrel of the carb. When they are on their way out, it'll sputter when giving it gas. You'll have to get a carbr ebuild kit IIRC which is like $25 from Schucks last time I bought one.

I already know your problem with the headlights. The power wire which is going to be the big red wire going into the switch usually goes out. I had the one in my '78 Brat quit on me and I ran another wire from the battery to it and it worked fine. I know about the little retaining screw but I can't remember how to get it out. I can't find my FSM either!

don't know about a full sized air cleaner but I did have one on my '78 Brat. I had a "custom" air cleaner I made for it (some wire mesh and some cotton type fabric) since I couldn't afford an actual Weber air cleaner. I don't think a full sized air cleaner will fit since there wasn't much clearance in between the hood and the carb.

there might be more parts up here if you want them. I also have a single range 4wd EA81 tranny with 83,000 miles on it. Just let me know what all you still need and I'll see if I have it.

LUVMYBRAT still has one in his turbo Brat Mike. I bet he'd let you have it if you come up and take the dsh out to get it. I know its good since I drove the car for a little while... He wants the mint dash so I bet if you take it out, he'd give you the heater core;)

a fellow I went to highschool with and then later on, to the community college, had an '84 GL 4wd wagon. His dad was the original owner of it, had the engine go out at roughly 30k due to an oil pump issue, had another engine put into it due to another defect, and when he started driving it, it had over 400k miles on it. All original, d/r 4-speed, white exterior, blue interior, white wagon wheels that were almost perfect. The car was in nice shape for an older GL with that many miles on it. This was of course, back before I was into Subarus but I remember it had the rotted vents like the EA81s had on some years. He ended up selling it right before he graduted from highschool and bought an '85 CRX with a '98 Accord v6 stuffed into it with a 5-speed... After that, he sold the CRX and bought a FWD '83 EA81 wagon. 5-speed, maroon with a tan interior for $75!

Stock EA81 struts and springs with 3 coils cut form the springs in the front and reclocked torsion bars in the rear to make it sit fairly low:-p As far as mounting the tranny, you might want to shoot Hondasucks a PM since he did an EA81 and d/r 4-speed into his old '77 wagon. He'd know!

I put EA81 control arms into my '79 4wd wagon because I did a full EA81 suspension/brake swap into it. I actually made new leading rods and welded them to the EA81 control arms. I made them the exact same length as the original EA71 leading rods but I use some round stock that was a little larger (not much) and tapped the end of it to a standard thread pitch. I have a couple pics... http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458350067339125NjfalY http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458386067339125UIqgYM http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1302458404067339125HAIQVL

that might work, I haven't looked at then yet to see if they'll bake off. I also got blue strobe lights in mine and you can't even tell they're there until they get turned on. Hey, I'm a RICER!

Oh don't get me wrong so do I since I'm planning on the EJ20G swap into my EA82 coupe. Its just trying to find new ways to make the car look different then stock, like the RX bodykit on a wagon for instance. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=831&cat=527 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=1946&cat=527

some of us like the fact that being different with EA82s as far as custom lighting and such is actually pretty cool. Have you seen Subaru_Styles blue EA82 wagon? If not, sit down and shut up!:-p

I have a set of gen 1 fenders that I shaved the trim on and was planning on doing it to my old '78 Brat. Never got around to finishing it though. The fenders look awesome, even though I also shaved the side marker lights that were in them:grin:

Oooo let me know what you come up with Mike! I'm going to pull the valve covers off to check the valves out next weekend I think. Hopefully it isn't something that was fatal to my engine but if its going to be a lot more work to machine the heads and stuff, then having to reseal it and so on and so forth, then I might as well just get another engine and drop it in there.

do it right or it'll fall out. Weld the hole , grind it down and use some bondo...

+1 All the EA71s in the gen 1 bodys came with top mounted starters. The later "fat case" EA71 as GD talks about came in EA81 bodystyle cars and have the same bellhousing as the side mounted starter EA81s...

well the dreaded answer that I could possibly come up with has come. Went to work today and did stuff around the shop while on the clock. Clocked out and worked on the coupe. First thing I did was check the fuel pressure. Checked out at 20psi right on the nose. Next, I checked the compression with some help from one of the other mechanics... cylinder #1 - 0psi cylinder #2 - 125psi cylinder #3 - 135psi cylinder #4 - 0psi Yes, so it looks like I'm in need of an engine. Either a carbed or SPFI longblock minus intake, flywheel stuff and whatnot. Just need everything from the valve covers into the shortblock. I also checked my timing again today just to be on the sure side. I have one of the parts guys from work searching for one in the area for a couple hundred bucks hopefully but I'm also going to put an ad in the classifieds... At least I pinpointed the problem and once I get an engine, should only take me a couple hours to swap:headbang:

Thats actually a good idea. And fortunatly for me, the FSM book that covers section 2 and 3 (engine and transmission/differential) has the specs for the MAF and the TPS in it. Also, what does the fuel dampener do? This is different from my MPFI models since the FSM says its only on the SPFI models... Mike, I have checked the timing belts a few times, checked the disty timing as well. I thought it was a dropped valve but on further inspection and compression testing, turns out the guy helping me read the gauge wrong. I'm also going to recheck the compression hopefully tomorrow.

in order to fit an EA82 of any sort into a gen 1 vehicle, the frame rails have to be notched out for the valve covers to fit into the engine compartment. I've seen a gen 1 Brat with an EA82T that was modified in it but it took the guy a lot of hours to do so. He even put a single range 5-speed EA82 4wd tranny in it as well. I remember when this individual left WCSS6 and got pulled over for speeding in it. So can it be done? Yes it can be done but not without a lot of modifications and if you're not feeling very comfortable doing tons of fab work with welders, metal lathes and such, then this is not a swap for you. An EJ22 will fit inside the frame rails on a gen 1 BUT its a very tight fit with like 1/2" of clearance on either side of the valve covers IIRC.

ok, I got it towed into work today so after I punched out, I started going at it again. Getting spark and I have replaced the disty, disty cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I'm getting fuel and I have checked the fuel filter to see if it had a possible clog and it checked out OK. Didn't have a cnahce to test the fuel pressure as of yet though. Thats on the list tomorrow. It ALMOST started though which is weird. When I pulled the fuel filter and blew through it to check for a clog, I then reinstalled it into the car, jumped in it and cranked it over. Its hard to describe the sound it makes but it sputtered up like it was starting and then went to a "crank crank crank putt putt putt putt, crank crank putt putt putt" type of sound. It was wanting to catch and take off but for some reason, it wasn't? Tomorrow I'm going to take my very expensive DVOM and check the specs of the MAF if I can and check the resistance in the CTS and corresonding connections. I'm still leaning toward a fuel issue though but I'll narrow that down tomorrow when I test the fuel pressue and make sure that its spot on. So, thoughts, opinions, suggestions? I got 3 1/2 months before I'm driving this thing out to Washington when I move:headbang:

yup, because I replaced the disty with another one I had and it has a brand new cap and rotor installed on it. I triple checked it before I installed it. Lower strength thread lock works wonders:-p

Jon, I was planning on doing something like this to my '78 Brat so I started to look at what would be the best to lift a good amount of weight as far as struts. The ones I found, are a little pricy, but they're for an '82-'92 Camaro/Firebird for the rear glass. They have a huge back window on them and have pretty good struts to keep that weight up. I have a set of brand new struts that are for a car WITHOUT a rear defrost grid so it doesn't have the little clips welded onto the body of the strut for the wiring. I was going to make a frame out of 3/4" steel square tubing, make a couple custom hinges for the front of it to mount to the back of the cab, and basically make me a fiberglassed shell that was encorporated into the frame. It'll take a lot of time and effort, some money but not too bad, and to find someone to paint it for you to match the car. Good luck!

daeron, I do have the complete '87 FSM minus the section 6 that covers the electrical portion:-\ Also, this car doesn't have a clutch switch since its a manual but instead it has the neutral safety switch in the tranny. I'm wanting to go with a fuel problem but I will also be checking the CTS as well to verify that it is NOT the problem. Gotta start knocking things off of the list of possible causes or very slim possible causes. That's the easiest way to narrow down any problem!

you need the CV ends so the front wheels don't fall off, not on the tranny. I believe there should be one axle in the back and one stub in some of the EA81 suspension parts I had under it. There are some of the original knuckles, control arms and such, but one knuckle is painted black and has no bearings in it since I glassbeaded it before I painted it. If you can get the knuckles (or wheel bearings and seals for one side), calipers, rotors, new balljoints or good used ones, you could put the original front end back together. Ther is no engine in it, its in the garage on the floor. I thought I sent you a link to the pics? I can't remember but here it is, and the most recent pics are the last ones, which I took a little over a year ago... http://rides.webshots.com/album/302448662rflEga

Thanks for the info Daeron. Only thing about the MAF which I have checked, that if its unplugged, the ECU will see this and throw the car into a limp mode. I've done it before and the car still ran, just poorly and would rev above 3500rpm or so. I'm thinking its my fuel pressure as well. I have heard of the Ford fuel pump deal but why spend money on one when I got 2 perfectly good stock fuel pumps?:-p I'll see about blowing air through the lines to see if that will help. I'm going to disconnect the line from the intake and from the tank and blow away and see what kind of garbage that has built up in it comes out, if any. If there is a lot, then I have a new OEM fuel filter (one is a Purolator IIRC). I'm going to start with the 3 basic items, fuel, air and spark. I know I have good spark for sure cause I got a nice shock off of it when I was rotating the disty to see if it was a timing issue. If all those check out, next will be to triple check my timing to see if its spot on, just to rule it out, then I'll be cleaning sensors. First sensor that I can think of that would possibly do this might be the coolant sensor but by the time I figured out where it was, it was too cold to clean it. Right now, its 0 degrees out. Thats pretty warm compared to yesterday!

I've removed/installed EA71s with me and the aid of a helper. They're pretty light and I can move one by myself. In order to put remove and engine/install an engine for that car, here's a rundown on what needs to be done... top two bellhousing bolts (14mm), pitch stopper needs to be removed (12mm nut and 14mm bolt on firewall IIRC), 2 - 17mm nuts on the bottom of the bellhousing, disconnect radiator hoses, disconnect electric fan and thermoswitch, remove radiator (2 - 12mm bolts), disconnect engine wiring harness (1 plug), disconnect 2 heater hoses, disconnect throttle cable, remove 4 - 14mm nuts on exhaust, remove 2 - 14mm nuts on engine mounts -> crossmember studs, disconnect alternator wiring, disconnect grounds from battery and possibly to the body as well, and then just lift the engine and pull out. Its easier to put a jack under the front diff case and jack it up to help with clearance for removing and installing the engine as far as the engine mounts. I might have missed something but that should be it. I also like to disconnect the clutch cable but its not nessessary until installation.